PC V with Auto Tune = Holy Grail. for the 2008 & 2009 Husqvarna EFI bikes

[krieg]

Just went to the PCV website. They're still "developing" the 2010 Husky stuff.

 

[Coffee]

Just went to the PCV website. They're still "developing" the 2010 Husky stuff.

You can order any product for 2009 - 2010 and it will work on your 2010 TXC just fine... The difference is in the mapping, and that can be changed however you want, ideally with the autotune module.

edit: the 2008 bikes only had PCIII supported, you need to buy a PCV for a 2009 Husqvarna.

 

[krieg]

You can order any product for 2008 - 2010 and it will work on your 2010 TXC just fine... The difference is in the mapping, and that can be changed however you want, ideally with the autotune module.

I'm confused. When I go to the site, there is no "buy" button for any of the 2010 models. It says "Power Commander V under development". It gives a part number and price, but you can't add it to your cart because there's no button to click.

 

[nocontrol]

So far, the 2009 SM510R stock w/ power up kit was pretty rich down low/mid range and lean up top.. I have two trackdays this weekend, so I will get a lot of autotune work done and then post up the results. Then I am going to core my mufflers and retune, I don't want to start on that before this weekend incase I don't finish in time for my trackdays.

For all PCV users, the PCV software DOES NOT HAVE A MAP COMPARE FEATURE!

Download the PC3 software, and open a zero map, then copy/paste the 0-10% throttle values from your PCV map into the PC3 software and then the 20-100% throttle values (PC3 does not have 15%), save the file. You now have a .djm (PC3) map copy of your PCV map and can use the PC3 map compare software to compare maps.

 

[Coffee]

I'm confused. When I go to the site, there is no "buy" button for any of the 2010 models. It says "Power Commander V under development". It gives a part number and price, but you can't add it to your cart because there's no button to click.

Assuming you are also getting the autotune: Find *any* Husqvarna bike that is supported by the PCV, they are physically the same. Install, zero out the map that came in the PCV so it does nothing, then let the autotune module build the map for you. One model would be the 2009 SM610 part number 23-002.

Personally I would at least click on the Semco at the top of the page, and get it cheaper (I think) from someone that knows all these things, at least give him a chance.

 

[gandalf]

Assuming you are also getting the autotune: Find *any* Husqvarna bike that is supported by the PCV, they are physically the same. Install, zero out the map that came in the PCV so it does nothing, then let the autotune module build the map for you. One model would be the 2009 SM610 part number 23-002.

Personally I would at least click on the Semco at the top of the page, and get it cheaper (I think) from someone that knows all these things, at least give him a chance.

I didn't buy it yet, but when I find the money I will buy from Semco...top notch guy

 

[G8R]

Ok so I installed the PCV and Auto Tune on my 2008 Husky SM 450. Which map should I be running off the website. I think there are only 2 choices The Zero map and the Stock exhaust, Husquvarna power up kit map. I havent run the Zero map but was running the other one, when I got back riding I plugged it in and there are no trims to accept. Auto Tune is enabled, am I missing something?

 

[HSMRDave]

Mate, after even a short blast there should be quite a few trim values(which you can then accept if you wish in order to alter the base map).
I had the Husky power up base map, which although is not exact for my bike, it gives the autotune something to work from. After my first ride there were absolutely loads of trims to transfer to the base map (I am running full leo Vince twin system/ K&N)
Are you sure the autotune is connected and functioning correctly?

 

[G8R]

I hooked it up as the instructions said. I have the black wire to the negative on the battery the red to the running light of the tailight and the other wires R color coded n hooked up right. The light on the auto tune is red solid not blinking.

 

[seymore]

Can you plug into to computer while its running? You should see the real-time AFR readings. If not,, do you have the terminator plug in the second CAN port of the AT module.

 

[G8R]

Terminator plug it was Thanks Im a idiot

 

[kingsqueak]

A bit confused.

So my bike is altered with the O2 sensor removed and the resistor in place.

Should I put the O2 sensor back if I went this route with the V and auto tune? I'm thinking it would likely need the O2 sensor data to work right?

Also, autotune, does it actually change the mapping as you ride or does it just create a map based on gathered data that you later enable if you want?

I commute on my bike and occasionally get to the dirt on the weekends/off time, so if it actually tuned on the fly, due to the varying riding conditions, that sounds like it's a dream come true.

 

[Coffee]

A bit confused.

So my bike is altered with the O2 sensor removed and the resistor in place.

Should I put the O2 sensor back if I went this route with the V and auto tune? I'm thinking it would likely need the O2 sensor data to work right?

Also, autotune, does it actually change the mapping as you ride or does it just create a map based on gathered data that you later enable if you want?

I commute on my bike and occasionally get to the dirt on the weekends/off time, so if it actually tuned on the fly, due to the varying riding conditions, that sounds like it's a dream come true.

Autotune comes with it's own sensor. Keep the resistor in place, take the plug out of your exhaust, and install the Autotune sensor.

Yes it alters the map as you ride and is a dream come true

(actually it is a bit more complicated than that, but effectively that is what happens)

 

[seymore]

A bit confused.

Should I put the O2 sensor back if I went this route with the V and auto tune? I'm thinking it would likely need the O2 sensor data to work right?

Also, autotune, does it actually change the mapping as you ride or does it just create a map based on gathered data that you later enable if you want?

The stock O2 sensor is a narrow-band which only measures AFR from 14.2:1 to 15.2:1 while a wide-band sensor which is used by Dynojet can measure AFR 10:1 to 20:1. Narrow-band sensor are used to keep the engine at 14.7:1 which is ideal for lowest emission, but not best power. For more info see http://www.boostsource.com/?p=131

The Dynojet AT-200 (auto-tune) is a separate module that connects to PCV module with a data cable. It provides the PCV with real-time AFR measurements that are compare to a user defined AFR map, the difference is the stored as values in the "trim map" that in real-time adds or subtracts from the "base map" . You can use the Dynojet software to merge "accept" the trim values into the base map. This creates a new base map and zeros (clears) the trim map. Now, any new values in the trim map indicates further adjustments needed to achieve the defined AFR.

With a speed sensor input to the PCV, separate maps can be created for each gear.

Dynojet has a online self guided tutorial on using the PCV...
http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Support/Help/wwhelp/wwhimpl/js/html/wwhelp.htm

Hope this helps.

Feel free to contact me for more info. www.semcodesigns.com

 

[kingsqueak]

Ordered!

Crap..didn't see that a site sponsor sold them...sorry would have given you the biz. I'm quick on the trigger sometimes.

I have a feeling since my riding will vary from laid back street to trails that this auto tune is just the thing for me. A bit pricey, but you know, thinking that I'm no race mechanic that $75 a pop would add up pretty quickly anyway and if I didn't like the tune job, I'd have to live with it until I ponied up more.

Gotta love forums..thanks all, will report back for sure, hopefully get it and install this weekend.

O.k. so read back a bit. Start with a zero map, enable the auto tune, do some typical riding around town. Save that as my base map and enable the auto tune to trim it up from the baseline. Should be cool.

 

[Coffee]

O.k. so read back a bit. Start with a zero map, enable the auto tune, do some typical riding around town. Save that as my base map and enable the auto tune to trim it up from the baseline. Should be cool.

Sounds good.

You may want to limit how much the Autotune can 'tune' to something below 20%. People have been known to get into 'interesting' situations off road e.g. upside down. Then the autotune keeps on adjusting... and if it can adjust a significant amount (20+%) then it may not start up.

Personally I'd keep the adjustment 10-15%. It is a software setting.

fyi - the 'zero' map does nothing. Makes no changes to the efi pulses at all.

 

[kingsqueak]

Sounds sane.

So at zero, it's like it is bypassed, got it.

So I start with zero, go ride for a bit, plug it in and take a look. If I see a bunch of +10's and -10's I know it hit the wall and likely needed more range.

So if that felt reasonable, I could save that as a new base, ride and repeat and see if it is still pegging things at 10. Then I can sort of interpolate the baseline.

I'm assuming taking it nice and easy on lower traffic roads is probably the sane approach heh.

Honestly...it will be 'interesting' for me to try and reach the throttle stop at this point. Maybe once I get the intermediate fueling a bit more smooth and predictable, it won't seem quite as crazy to wind it up more. Likely need a nice run merging onto the local interstate here to get a smooth full throttle range run for the data points. I have a handy 'circuit' to ride that is 25mph 40mph with a lot of tight turns and throttle transitions that I can then hop onto the local expressway and come back within 10miles total.

 

[kingsqueak]

Hell I have a compact Panasonic Toughbook that I forgot I have...heh I can stuff that into my backpack in case it screws up on me down the road.

 

[Coffee]

Sounds sane.

So at zero, it's like it is bypassed, got it.

So I start with zero, go ride for a bit, plug it in and take a look. If I see a bunch of +10's and -10's I know it hit the wall and likely needed more range.

So if that felt reasonable, I could save that as a new base, ride and repeat and see if it is still pegging things at 10. Then I can sort of interpolate the baseline.

You are extremely close to understanding.

1. With all 0's in the map the PC does not alter the Fuel injection pulse width.
2. with all +10s in the map the fuel injector pulse adds 10% width to whatever the fuel injector pulse is, -10s work the same - subtract 10% pulse width
3. There are 2 maps that add together if the autotune in being used - base and trim. They add together. So if the base map is all 0s, and the autotune map are all +10s, then 10% pulse width is added everywhere.
4. When you 'accept trims' you take whatever is in the autotune map and meld it with the base map, and it also zeros out the autotune map.

Allowing the autotune to adjust 20% works fine on the road, I just would not want to leave it that way when venturing out... of course there are many other details such as a switch could be installed to disable the autotune module map. Many fun things can be done with an dynojet product.

 

[kingsqueak]

I think I'm gettin' it

Zeroes for the base map, I'm assuming auto tune trim map starts with zero.

You set AFR (air fuel ratio I assume again) as the target to attain. Higher is leaner and better mileage.

Ride in auto tune mode as it were. You are then riding actively as it tweaks.

When you get done you have the zero basemap and the trim table now that auto tune developed based on the range restriction you pre-set (saw the software you set the max and min range percentages for increase or decrease). If you liked how it was running, you 'accept trims' and now because the basemap was zeroes, it basically is what the auto tune 2nd trim map generated.

From that point, you can look at the auto trim table and decide if you want to change any of the base map to sort of help out auto tune in particular ranges, or outright accept trims and merge them.

So that would give you the sane, everyday base map, and if you set a +/- 5% or something similarly low, you could then just enable auto tune if you know you would be riding in a non characteristic manner, say hitting the trails for the weekend.

I think I'm very close now?

Thanks much for the 'class' btw.