• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Overwhelmed by info on what to do with a new bike

9

99WR250

Husqvarna
A Class
Hey guys. Just a little overwhelmed after reading all the info on prepping a new bike, breaking it it, jetting, pre mix ratio's ... A lot of threads call for "finding what works for you" as far as per mix ratio's and jetting. This stuffs all real new to me. And im not really sure of "what works for me" so im looking for some baseline info. I just want to get the bike to where I can go ride it and enjoy if. After reading all the info here I'm afraid to even start it up. I think I may have made a mistake by riding it around at the dealer for a few minutes before breaking it in, unless the dealer had already done that. I Never really got out of 3rd gear but got up on the throttle just a little. Rode it for maybe 3 mins. Could I have done damage? The bike was gassed up by the dealer and they said they did a torque chck on all the bolts.

1: could I have done damage by not breaking it in before riding it? How should I proceed from here as far as break in?

2: per mix...after reading all the info here I have no clue where to start. Maybe just follow the manuals instruction word for word. 23:1 for the break in period (which I'm not even sure of what/how to break it in). And then 32:1 after that. It seems as though many of ou are running 40:1 or 50:1 .

3: jetting....I don't really know much about this. Can I just run the bike how it came? It did come with a small box of parts...I think they have to do with jetting options.

4: grease prep...I'm almost 100% ok with this step....but should I pull all the wheel bearing out, open them up and grease, or will just pulling the wheel and greasing around them be okay? Same question with the linkage bearings.

5: I have noticed some black sponge spiriting out of the back of my silencer...is this ok?

6: the engine seems to ping ....compared to the sound of my 99 wr250...


Sorry I'm such a newb!
 
sometimes too much info is a bad thing. read your manual and have fun :thumbsup: you're not going to hurt that bike.

EDIT. to be less vague...

1. no. but if you're nervous, do a few heat cycles. fire, warm, cool. fire, warm, putt around, cool. inch your way to higher revs through each cycle.
2. yes, follow the manual to keep it simple. once comfy, different oils may call for different ratios.
3. run it as it came. if it feels OK, great. if it's a dog, there is plenty of help here
4. i dont stress about this stuff. you will be tearing into that bike come winter anyway. why sweat it? go RIDE!
5. depends on your jetting, oil selection and ride style. spooge is usually just part of 2-stroke life, but you will learn to tame it (sorta, heh)
6. ping is no good. this will require more detail... :)
 
Ah, that's why I love 2 stroke's.

Break it in under load, vary rpm's @ idle, don't wrap it out until you go through a tank of gas. Then give er hell for a season.

1: Unless you let it idle for a long period of time (even then you're just sacrificing a bit of ring longevity)

2: I run 32:1 for break in and 32:1 for riding.

3: I would run it as it came, You can tell if its too lean. Which is the only thing to worry about.

4: Wheel bearings are sealed. Removing the bearings is considered to be damaging. If you want pry the seal with an o-ring pick and pack grease/re-seal.

5:I usually judge this by how far down the silencer it drools. But alas if the bike runs fine it doesn't matter.

6: Could just be the 250 has a throatier sound...
 
get on it, i run 40:1 all the time, the pinging is probably the exhaust gasses bouncing aroung the expansion chamber
125's sound tinnier as the rev higher.
 
Prepping a new bike checks like re-greasing bearing, brake fluid etc should all be done before you begin to run the motor - and it doesn't hurt wheel/swingarm/linkage/steering bearing to have extra grease or bleed there brakes to know they are firm.


After the 1st ride, drain the gearbox fluid with fill with fresh batch.

On jetting, you won't know if jetting is correct until you start to ride the bike on your track and get a feel of what the bike is like under 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and WOT throttle - the visible sign of rich jetting is excessive spooge, so is stuttering at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and finally fouling a plug.

And if l were to be brutally honest, modern honing techniques, tighter tolerances, better piston/ring materials and QC (ISO) standards on bikes would call for the assembled bike to go through a test run on their dyno's so reality is the first 5-10mins of it's life, where ring seal is vital, the factory have 80% done it for you!!!

Not bagging anyone, but long break in periods for a modern motor let alone a 2t is almost non-existent these days.

Still my method of running in a fresh topend rebuild or new 2t bike is as simple as this (and don't blame me if it doesn't work for you):
Start the bike up on the choke for 10-30 sec or can blip the throttle without dying.
Do long, half throttle blips with the choke off until there is no stutter about 2 mins
Progressively, start doing long blips to 3/4 full, occasionally do sharp blips - about 2 mins.
Shut her off and let her cool completely - pipe cold, head cold, every thing cold.
Repeat the procedure a further two times with the last time taking the bike for a ride, never coasting, constantly cycling the gears and focusing on loading the motor and gearbox (not pinning it), even dragging the rear brake to simulate a slope.
Let it cool down again
If you have a torque wrench, check head bolts/cylinder base nuts are at the factory spec tension.
Drain the gearbox fluid and fill with fresh batch and then ride the tits of the thing.
 
I'd ride it around for 10 minutes just plonking and no more than half throttle after getting it warmed up, then just ride it as if you would normally. Sounds like you kinda have 1-2 heat cycles in it already, + the one at the factory I'd guess.

I went thru all the oil BS over the years, I even was an Amsoil dealer just to get a deal on the "good" juice. The last couple years we run, (sit down) Walmart blue jug premix oil by the gallon ($14???) at 44:1 in everything from 125s to 380cc 2t race bikes. We have normal wear, no oddities from oil at all.

My opinion, 20 years of a full family of 4 boys racing MX and off road is the oil pitch is BS. There is no "bad" oil anymore. I think the stuff we use is marine grade too, LOL! No DNFs from premix or top ends/cranks, we raced a lot of scrambles the last 3 years. All in deep sand and under heavy hands. 250SX, 125WR, 144WR, 300EXc and 380SX. I'm back on my first 2t 125 in 15 years and the same sludge is being fed her, runs fine.

You can pay 5 times as much but it is the same result IMO, burn your $ wisely!

As to your jetting, if you aren't fouling plugs and it runs OK, leave it be. Check the color of the plug, feel how it runs. I don't start rejetting because the temps dropped 10f.

Lube the steering head and linkage, but you won't ruin the bike if you don't. Just pick a rainy day and tear it apart at your leisure. Might want to pull out the swingarm axle over winter too, LOL!
 
Run Amsoil at 3 oz per gallon. inexpensive, has proven amazing.

Breakin? Dont worry about it. You did no harm. Ride it EZ for a few hours then get it on. I usually do three heat cycles at home running it around the hood but after that just ride, zero issues. Modern metallurgy and machining make these stone reliable and breakin is not super critical, just use common sense and your good to go. Spooge out the tailpipe means nothing other than your motor is enjoying good lubrication. Don't get to wrapped up in all this. These 125 class bikes are hammer reliable. Don't pull the wheel bearing out, it will ruin them. Grease the steering head, linkage and swingarm pivot with very high quality waterproof grease like Belray or many others. "Marine" grease is always good. When The wheel bearings go repack the new ones before installing with same grease. I doubt your bike is pining unless you have crap gas. Premium pump gas should be fine. Just never use old gas as it goes bad real fast. Ride.
 
Norman Foley said:
That Wal-Mart oil probably works fine, but sure smells like a tom cat pissing on your head pipe!
Click to expand...

Not funny Norm. You know I lost my sense of smell as a child when my brother was accidentally cut in half in a terrible machete accident.

But seriously, smells like petrol oil premix to me. Maybe your cat has been pissin on your pipes? ;)
 
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