• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Overheating problem

S

sandyeggoxj

Husqvarna
A Class
I' have a 2005 te450. I switched to engine ice last year and then my bike was running warm. It then sat from mid-summer until about 2 months ago. I didn't really winterize it so I spent some time cleaning the carb, replacing the chain/sprockets, battery and more. Now my overheating problem is way worse. I thought that maybe I flushed and the coolant the wrong way last time so I did it again. This time I drained the current engine ice, filled it with distilled water, ran it for a minute and then flushed it with more distilled water. Finally I drained that out and then filled it with engine ice. I have NO visible corrosion on the impeller or anywhere else in the system. The coolant is nice and clear and is the same color as when it is poured fresh from the bottle.

I figured I should just switch back to 50/50 ethylene glycol and see what happens but thought I would ask first. Also, important to note is that my riding has been above 7k feet and I am jetted pretty rich for that altitude. Ambient temps have been between 70 and 85*F. Riding style has been anywhere from 1st gear singletrack to 3-4th gear faster stuff.
 
If it sat for 9 months, and you didn't physically clean the jets, you could be running lean and hot due to some varnished up jets.
 
First it shoots very warm coolant out of the overflow bottle all over my left leg. Then if I turn it off I can hear the radiators bubbling for at least 5 minutes but usually 10+ minutes. It will do this if I ride the bike with virtually any load for more than 10 or 15 minutes. Idling down a long hill it will run normal. I don't find that very fun riding! I don't have any sort of temperature gauge or reference measurement other than extensive boiling of the coolant. It does seem to heat up faster than it should.

Also, I pulled all the jets and cleaned them with carb cleaner/speaker wire. I did NOT spray carb cleaner throughout the carb because I was afraid of cracking rubber parts.

I was considering getting a radiator cap. Where is a good place to order one from? I'm in Moab so I am pretty much stuck with ordering online from someone familiar with huskys. My current radiator cap appears to be in fine condition, but I have had problems with other vehicles overheating and replacing a perfectly good looking cap helped the problem significantly.
 
TRIPLE-M said:
How's your clutch? A slipping clutch generates a lot of heat too.
Click to expand...
No idea! Pull the friction plates and measure thickness? I do have a digital caliper. Easy to pull that and measure I would guess?


BadMotoWeazal said:
sounds lean.... has it been jetted for your altitude?
Click to expand...
It should definitely be running rich. Sea level jetting, riding at 4500' to 10000'. Mostly 7-8000' during the summer. Can pretty much smell the unburned gas coming out the tailpipe.
 
Radiator cap would be a good place to start but it's almost sounding like a head gasket issue if it starts to pump coolant out that fast...

Presumably the impeller is driving when you turn the engine over?


Dave
 
Well concidering you've cleaned the jets and had no changes- as well as not mentioning substantial running issues, Yes my guess would be inline with HVUK's (Cap/head gasket): radiator cap may be purging early- leading to less of a presurized system with a decreased boiling point as well as puking coolant early (symptom) but not actually "that hot". You can replace with a 1.6bar from rocky mountain atv/mc if yours uses the same cap as a 2008-2010 (pretty common cap I think KTM is the only one that runs a different size)(stock one would be fine too/ yours is just opening early or leaking due to wear) Stock bar for 09TE450 is 1.2, stock bar on a 11TE310 is 1.4- I replaced my 09TE450 cap when it started opening early with a RMATVMC 1.6 bar cap (I have stock hoses, HP Water Pump, and recently went to Engine ICE). CV4 also makes various bar caps- they are the most popular high bar caps. Also start the bike with the cap off- watch for the water to churn/swirl= pump is working, keep watching for bubbles=symptom of head gasket leak.

Good luck I hope its not the head gasket!!!:thumbsup:
 
Sounds similar to the crap I went thru a couple years ago with my '05 TE510...........blowing off early, geyser out the overflow cap cooking left leg.
Took my bike to dealer at one point and had them do leak down test to check head gasket, which turned out was fine.
Without going thru the whole story again, basically ended up with three changes.
  1. Stock radiator cap weakened allowing to it blow off way too early. Replaced with CV4 cap 20psi (1.4bar)
  2. Stock cap on overflow tank has a gasket or seal inside that melted causing system to not work properly. Replaced with new OEM cap.
  3. Most recently, as in last month, replaced stock water pump with new Husqvarna high flow water pump kit (8000H2449, listed for 2008-2010, but fits exactly). Comes with new much improved impellor and better flowing housing, but not the o-ring, so you need to keep existing o-ring or get new.
The first two were just worn or damaged and needed replaced, but No.3 really seemed to help on those tight 1st gear nasty trails.
I also run Engine Ice, w/little bit of Redline Water Wetter
 
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