Ordering Parts For Winter Fix Up Of 430 Auto, But Have Questions.

[D12]

So I have a 1986 Husqvarna 430 AE, needs a little work, put it off for a little bit, but I want to order the parts now and start doing a good job so its ready for riding next spring. Now, I am more of a car person, so even on my Triumph I usually have to ask a lot of questions buying a new oil filter for it because I don't know the bits as well on bikes. So I need some clarification on the parts I am looking at.

I have been looking into getting a brake rebuild kit for the front Brembo Brake, I am convinced it doesn't exist but I did find a brake caliper (that needs new pads probably) for a 1986 250 WR and its supposed to fit a 430 as well. Will this fit, or where is the brake rebuild kit I have been told exists? Also, there are several different shapes of pads that show up when I Google pads for the bike.

Next, the guy I bought the bike off pointed me to Husvarna Vintage for a new left side cover, under their automatic section. Will it fit a 430 AE? It looks like it will, but I imagine there are different side covers for different autos?

What size are the tires? Front and rear. Needs a rear tube, want to change the tires as well.

I did find a reed box that fits though, so I got that going for me, which is nice.

As for oil, I have been looking hard into possible alternatives to Univis J-26 (Univis HVI 26 now I think its called). The Univis does not have an ISO rating, but its properties seem similar to ISO 22 or ISO 32, more closer to ISO 22 hydraulic oils, the one I was looking at that seemed fairly close was Tellus T-22, as well, 10w-30 oil was even closer, really quite close to the Univis numbers. The one thing I am not too sure which is the more important number, but I was looking at Kinematic Viscosity for 40C and 100C, Viscosity Index if available, Pour point and Flash point. I would really like to find something that I can go out and by a litre or 4 at any Canadian Tire or automotive store, no ordering in stuff (Laziness). How close is good enough for light riding, and I am working out a pump and filter setup to add on as well if that makes a difference?

If I can get some help on this info, I can have this thing running tip top for next season.

 

[suprize]

you need some "wizards" to tell you about the auto.... but for tyres and tubes, grab a good bridgestone for front and back and specify heavy duty tubes. the shop should ask what type of riding and say all types.

rip your old tyres and tubes as well as the rim tapes out and then run a wire brush round the inside of the rim and give it a good clean. put 3 or four turns of duct tape round the centre of the rims, covering the spokes nicely. poke holes through for the valve and rimlock (if you have them). get a rat tailed file and round off the valve hole so the valve can move forward without being ripped from the tube.
refit the tyres and new tubes but not the rim tapes, use them for rubber bands...

 

[WayneL]

Check the tech info section on here for general 86 model manual and auto manual for all the information you will ever need.

You can buy rebuild kits for master cylinder at HVA Factory and Husky.com, pads to I'm sure. The tiny Brembo calliper is crap though. The 430 side cover will be the only one with a water pump shaft hole in it.

Oil - Secret Auto business - these things run really hot, really really hot, so close isn't good enough, use the J26.

 

[stormer254]

http://www.eurojamb.com/oddball-euro-parts-c-136/?page=3&sort=20a

 

[D12]

Check the tech info section on here for general 86 model manual and auto manual for all the information you will ever need.

You can buy rebuild kits for master cylinder at HVA Factory and Husky.com, pads to I'm sure. The tiny Brembo calliper is crap though. The 430 side cover will be the only one with a water pump shaft hole in it.

Oil - Secret Auto business - these things run really hot, really really hot, so close isn't good enough, use the J26.

Thanks for the info. Is there any caliper that will fit the bike that would be better then the Brembo?

Ok, let me just order a $1600, 55 gallon barrel of Univis oil then... -_- Here its only sold in 55 gallons or more. Even then its still hard to find. I HAVE to find an alternative. If it runs really hot, as long as the flash point and 100C kinematic viscosity are the same as the Univis and all other values are close then it should be good?

I completely forgot the 430 is the only liquid cooled, so, the cover I found will work! That's great.

I am going to go find the tech info section.

 

[D12]

you need some "wizards" to tell you about the auto.... but for tyres and tubes, grab a good bridgestone for front and back and specify heavy duty tubes. the shop should ask what type of riding and say all types.

rip your old tyres and tubes as well as the rim tapes out and then run a wire brush round the inside of the rim and give it a good clean. put 3 or four turns of duct tape round the centre of the rims, covering the spokes nicely. poke holes through for the valve and rimlock (if you have them). get a rat tailed file and round off the valve hole so the valve can move forward without being ripped from the tube.
refit the tyres and new tubes but not the rim tapes, use them for rubber bands...

Yeah, had a new tire tube, popped while being installed. I think I will have a shop do it, I just wanted to know sizing so I can order tires and tubes.

 

[D12]

http://www.eurojamb.com/oddball-euro-parts-c-136/?page=3&sort=20a

Oooo, I see 40mm fork seals, gonna need those too, forgot the fork seals are shot too. Great site! Thanks.

 

[WayneL]

Man that's only $29 a gal, we pay that for a litre
We can also buy it it 5 litre drums.
Check.....

http://www.hfifluidpowerproducts.com/Pages/Hydraulic-Fluid.html

http://www.mobil.com/UK-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENINDMOUnivis_HVI.aspx

http://catalog.mooreballiewoil.com/...hydraulic-oils-multi-grade-/univis-hvi/98ck83

http://www.cart100.com/Product/38028882627/

I have no idea where you live but google is your friend

 

[justintendo]

an option is to switch to the 87 forks. they look the same but have a boss that lets you mount the dual piston brembo master. they also have better fork action as they are quite a bit different inside than earlier forks. they will slide right in your triples but you must use the 87 wheel as the hub is slightly different. the reason for this is the 86 has a floating rotor, 87 has solid rotor. they do not interchange. all round it is a nice upgrade and looks stock

 

[D12]

Man that's only $29 a gal, we pay that for a litre
We can also buy it it 5 litre drums.
Check.....
I have no idea where you live but google is your friend

Canada, and we use Maxima Shock Oil not Univis because it comes in 1 litre bottles, much nicer then 55 gallon drums, but you still have to wait a month for some to be ordered in. Maybe I am asking too much to find oil that some stores stock that can be run in this bike...

 

[D12]

an option is to switch to the 87 forks. they look the same but have a boss that lets you mount the dual piston brembo master. they also have better fork action as they are quite a bit different inside than earlier forks. they will slide right in your triples but you must use the 87 wheel as the hub is slightly different. the reason for this is the 86 has a floating rotor, 87 has solid rotor. they do not interchange. all round it is a nice upgrade and looks stock

I might have to look into that.

 

[justintendo]

heres a pic to show the difference..much larger pad area and a floating caliper

 

[430auto]

Here's your brake pads: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-1986-H...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2589c1b3a6&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-D...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ce185662&vxp=mtr

Order a few like I did as autos wear the front brakes fast.

Check this guy out for the brembo brake kit and fork seals: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brembo-Squa...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2596969d30

Let me know what you find out about the tranny popping out of gear.

Good luck. I told you the autos are a pain in the arse.

 

[D12]

View attachment 47217
heres a pic to show the difference..much larger pad area and a floating caliper

I think I will hold off on that for now, rather just get it working but that will probably be near top of the list for later.

 

[D12]

Here's your brake pads: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-1986-H...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2589c1b3a6&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-D...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ce185662&vxp=mtr

Order a few like I did as autos wear the front brakes fast.

Check this guy out for the brembo brake kit and fork seals: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brembo-Squa...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2596969d30

Let me know what you find out about the tranny popping out of gear.

Good luck. I told you the autos are a pain in the arse.

Not really any more of a pain then anything else I have ever owned really, and after taking it apart and looking at it, its so simple!

The transmission I am 99% sure its the one lug on the shifter fork that got worn down, the gear was able to slide back into neutral without moving the fork. It was not worn down very much, a millimeter or so, I think the shift lever needs to be shimmed up a bit with some Nylon/Teflon washers. If you have your bike apart at all, check to see how far that gear sits down in the shift fork in the engine, would be interesting to see if the lugs were sitting as low on yours as they are on mine. I mean, a millimeter of wear being enough for the gear to get past the it is pretty sad since that fork is about a centimeter deep. I am fairly certain its that and not a dog/one-way clutch since the shift lever would move to drive and you could get it to easily move much farther, so it was definitely going past the gear. I had the guy that lives at the place we dropped the bike off repair the lug, he said he could bring it back to new, but am out of town and haven't put it back together to test it. Maybe on yours even without opening up the engine, lift the shift lever up and down, see how much play it has, after I figured out that could be the cause I reassembled it a bit and tried mine, that lever has about 7 or 8mm of play up and down out of the transmission case, which seems like a lot.

Thanks for the links, I was looking at the brake pads on eBay, and if I had guessed earlier I would not have guessed the square ones were what I needed.

 

[fran...k.]

I tried unsuccessfully years ago to get a master cylinder rebuild kit. I think that floating disc, one piston on each side of the rotor has a different bore in the master cylinder I had to return what Morrells sent me years ago. The other fork leg on the 87-88 conventional fork has the holes for that floating disc set up on the 85-86. The pads are used in a lot of brand x applications.

Seems you have most of your answers by now. As I understand it they used that univis in the rear shocks at the time the dealers had lots of it. Oil for cartrige type forks is often suggested, without a source of first gear shoe, spring and drum kits it is kind of hard to justify buying a 5 gallon pail.

On some modern stuff folks have to go to ktm to find brake parts as husky just lists whole components. Working backawards form another application of the pads might pay off or be a waste of time. I got my brakes to work but the dust prevention pieces are not like new or even close.