• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Options For Checking Chain Tension On Your Husky

So what do you do to check it? The manual says 0.47" between the chain and swingarm when you push up on the bottom and take all the slack out of the top.

The diagram looks like that's done just as my bike sits, with the rear suspension unloaded.

Mine is quite a bit looser than that, I think. I'll double check this weekend when I work on it.
 
You guys that mention the .47" must be on 610s and 630s- the guys that mention 35mm are on 08-10 450/510s...

.47" does not seem right though... seems too tight but it depends on where you take that measurement (geometry and such).... You have a different chain slider- we measure about where the blocks are on yours that looks like its there to guide the chain. If you are supposed to measure at that point (above it) I can see why it would be .47' above that block...- anyway- start with the manual spec- verify it (if you are inclined) by making your swing arm level/horizontal that is the tightest it will get (disconect the shock). It should have some slack when horizontal/ but minimal. Now you can simply measure from that point again and replicate- knowing it is not "too" tight or too loose. That's what we were discussing on the first page of this thread- where lankydoug was pulling his seat down by grabing the swing arm- sitting on it alone usually does not reach the point of horizontal- he was achieving the same as me by disconecting the shock ...

I verified my manual instructions by disconecting the shock as stated earlier- so on my bike 09TE450- I use the manual instructions for that.
 
HUSKYnXJnWI said:
That's what we were discussing on the first page of this thread- where lankydoug was pulling his seat down by grabing the swing arm- sitting on it alone usually does not reach the point of horizontal- he was achieving the same as me by disconecting the shock ...

I verified my manual instructions by disconecting the shock as stated earlier- so on my bike 09TE450- I use the manual instructions for that.
Click to expand...
That's the direction I'm going, disconnecting the shock. I plan on taking the linkage apart this weekend to grease it anyway.
 
The chain adj. on the 630 is trickier then on the other dohc bikes. On the 630 you measure the 1/2" (.47") slack at the equal/mid way point between the sprockets, with the bike lifted. It always takes me a couple of times on the lift before I get it just right. The 35mm socket trick for the other bikes is great. I have to service two 630's and two '08 dohc TE's. I admit when it's chain adj. time I am jealous of the 449/511 CTS guys.
 
XLEnduroMan said:
The chain adj. on the 630 is trickier then on the other dohc bikes. On the 630 you measure the 1/2" (.47") slack at the equal/mid way point between the sprockets, with the bike lifted. It always takes me a couple of times on the lift before I get it just right. The 35mm socket trick for the other bikes is great. I have to service two 630's and two '08 dohc TE's. I admit when it's chain adj. time I am jealous of the 449/511 CTS guys.
Click to expand...
My chain tightens up pretty good when the suspension is loaded. I lean on the seat and reach down with one arm and pull on the swingarm. At that point, there's just a little bit of slack in the chain.

Lifted, the chain is slack enough that it will contact the swingarm.

Mind you, this is after I tightened the chain from the picture above.
 
Does anyone who has adjusted their TE630 chain using the shock disconnect or compression method (to get the swingarm perfectly horizontal) have a reference point measurement somewhere on the swingarm to the chain when the bike is sitting on its sidestand unloaded ? I understand that this will not produce a perfect measurement on my 630 but I am looking for a simpler way to check chain slack.

One thing that puzzles me about this model. Unless a bike has the countershaft sprocket mounted on the swingarm pivot, the chain will be subject to a change in tension as the swingarm loads/unloads. With very few exceptions, most bikes are subject to this phenomenon. And yet, most bikes have a simple way to set chain slack by measuring deflection from a point on the swingarm when the bike is on it's sidestand - without compression loading, tie-downs, etc. What is it about the TE630 that is different? I understand that the compression method works universally, but why does this particular bike not have a simple way to check the chain slack (e.g., 510/511 35mm method, etc.).

There seems to be universal agreement that the 12mm chain deflection/bike on sidestand method described in our 630 owner manuals is not that method and may even be an error as it produces a chain tension that is way too tight. I have tried it and agree. Any thoughts?
 
I was able to get some help to compress my suspension enough to check and set the chain slack. After adjusting my chain to a point where there is no lag when accelerating and decelerating and there is still some freeplay when the chain length is maxed out (loaded, swingarm horizontal) I was able to just barely slide a 36mm craftsman socket between the bottom of the swingarm and the chain when the bike is on it's sidestand unloaded. I did this at a spot just below the round black plastic disc towards the front of the swingarm (the same one the owners manual refers to). I am running a 14 tooth front sprocket and the stock 42 tooth rear. I also have an FMF Factory 4.1 exhaust and a Shorai battery which makes my bike about 20 lbs lighter than stock. While the bike was loaded and the swingarm was horizontal, I checked the chain deflection per the owners manual at the plastic disc on swingarm. I was able to push the chain up all the way to the bottom of swingarm slider at Point A. I think that if I had tightened the chain to allow deflection to within 12mm of the swingarm per the owners manual, the chain would be too tight - even if this measurement is done while loaded. Having once cracked a rear hub from running the chain too tight, I like to run my chain a little on the loose side. Anyway, now I have my reference point for future adjustments.
 
Agreed. May have to re-evaluate reference. After riding a bit, chain may be a little too loose with 36mm socket. PITA.
 
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