• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Opening forks on TE 310 2011

A

ales

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi,

For checking fork oil level there is next in the manual:

For the regular fork operation, both legs must be provided with
the necessary oil quantity. Remove the forkrods form the fork to
check the oil level inside the forkrods. Work as follows:
- remove the power rod caps;
- remove springs from the stems letting the oil drop into the
latter;
- bring forks to stroke end;
- check that the level is at distance of 140 mm(5.5 in.) below
the upper limit of rods.
----------------------------------

However, when I unscrew the top cap, I can not pull out the rods from the fork. Unscrewing, I can hear like a click every turn (when caps already totally uncrewed). It seems, something is pulling down the fork caps. Springs?
I`ve done this on stand, with no pressure on the forks.

Any idea?

Thank you,
A
 
You need to remove the forks completely (I suggest you change the oil in them anyway-the factory stuff is way to heavy/thick),unscrew the cap, slide the outer tube down then you will see a nut just under the cap. This will need to be unscrewed and you can then remove the spring/valve. Flush them out with metho or something and refill with 5wt, you will then be blessed with nice supple front suspension.

There is a thread somewhere on here about the oil issues.

BTW , I set my level at 120mm, works great, but if riding whoops etc, go for 100mm. You will need about 600ml of oil for each leg (so 2 bottles required )
 
robertk61 said:
You need to remove the forks completely (I suggest you change the oil in them anyway-the factory stuff is way to heavy/thick),unscrew the cap, slide the outer tube down then you will see a nut just under the cap. This will need to be unscrewed and you can then remove the spring/valve. Flush them out with metho or something and refill with 5wt, you will then be blessed with nice supple front suspension.

There is a thread somewhere on here about the oil issues.

BTW , I set my level at 120mm, works great, but if riding whoops etc, go for 100mm. You will need about 600ml of oil for each leg (so 2 bottles required )
Click to expand...

ok, thanks.
The situation is, that I have the forks already prepared by one company (previous owner). However, the guy and owner does not remind what has been done on the forks, which are a bit too hard (nice flushing, but I can not use all the travel). The guy advised as a fast solution to take out some of the oil.

Are there any schematic pictures of the forks? I know, that Yamaha had in the past similar forks mounted on.

tnx again and regards,
a
 
You can tell the difference between the signle chamber and dual chamber by the valve on top. On the single chamber, the valve sticks up and you can open with a wrench. The dual chamber doesn't and takes a special tool to open up
 
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