• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

On battery being disconnected for some time and engine out...

EricV

EricV

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi gang-

I'm hoping I'll be getting my 630 engine back from being rebuilt within the next 3-4 weeks or so, and then comes re-assembly. Apologies for what may seem to be stupid Q's, but I'd feel better feeling this out before re-assembling.

The battery has of course been disconnected during these past couple of months (now on tender.) Once all is reassembled and the battery is reconnected:

1.) Do I have to do any kind of TPS or ECU "reset"? I've done some searching but couldn't find anything specific to the 630 or 610 EFI models. I did see a post saying (if I understood it correctly) that it's an EPROM set-up, meaning that the data is stored on a chip so this shouldn't be a concern.

2.) Related to the question above (and answered, if it is indeed EPROM) will my gauge cluster have retained it's data? I of course only care about my odometer remaining accurate, reflecting the actual mileage the bike as a whole has.

3.) Regarding the throttle body. Mine (on the intake side, the throat and also that side of the butterfly) has a crusty dirt colored film on it- pretty nasty accumulation. It's gonna take some throttle body cleaner to get it off (yes, I will make sure my box is sealed better, and will grease the edges of the filter to seal and avoid this.) My concern- never having done this- is that I'll get some muck in one of the little holes that are in the wall of the bore/throat. What's the best approach- give it a good spray w/ TB cleaner and go at it w/ a Q-Tip? I've of course cleaned carbs, but those were complete tear downs of the carb...I don't fancy the idea of disassembling the TB if I can avoid it (as Murphy of said Law rules my life with an iron fist, as evidenced by my 630 engine grenading at 8900 miles. :)

If anyone thinks of anything else I should be mindful of when doing the reassembly please let me know. I sure don't wanna come this far and screw something up. Thanks!

Eric
 
On my 610:
-I kept the battery disconnected for months and the gauge cluster, although the time had been resetted to 00:00:00, didn't lose the odometer data.
-IIRC, I gently wiped the TB with my finger, paying attention not to bend anything. I for sure didn't spray it with any cleaner, while, as far as I know, usually other people just use liquid cleaners. I had also removed carbon deposites from the piston and the head. I didn't reset the TPS and the bike has run fine, except the first times, in which, at idle rpm, after some dozens of seconds the engine stalled, but I didn't have issues while riding, even when I released the throttle. Now it doesn't do it anymore.
 
Thanks Theo. Now when you say "being careful not to bend anything" what, out of curiosity, are you referring to? I'm not seeing anything I'd regard as particularly fragile, other than my concern about not getting any gunk down into any small holes in the walls of the throat/bore.
 
My point is that, since I don't know much the TB, I want to be careful.
First of all, I didn't want to force the butterfly valve while cleaning the spots near its hub (I tended to open the valve to clean better those spots).
Now, please look at this picture without minding all those Italian writings; just notice the MAQS:
5vcorpofarfallatoj

I didn't want to rotate the MAQS because it includes a TPS sensor. Yes, it's bolted on the TB, but maybe, If forced, it can move a little.
In this other picture you can see a little dark sort of pin on the left:
TE610throttleBody04.jpg

IMO that is the air pressure and/or air temperature sensor, which is expected to be touched by nothing but air, and , therefore, IMHO, it's fragile.
However, maybe the 630 TB is different and maybe my opinions are wrong.

EDIT: Sorry for the first pic; this link should work: https://imageshack.com/i/5vcorpofarfallatoj
 
Thanks a lot Theo. Looks the same as the 630's TB. I've been careful not to disturb the MAQS and I think I'll just go at at very slowly/carefully with a q-tip with a little solvent on it.
 
I would also give a blow with the compressor in case the q-tip sheds some fluff. Maybe I'm a little paranoid, but remember that the air which goes into the combustion chamber flows through that passage.
 
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