• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Oil Check Bolt

Mercury264

Mercury264

Husqvarna
AA Class
Does the oil check bolt have an insert from the factory ? Changed the oil on the TE the other day, took the bolt out to check the level and as I was putting it back in (nice and gentle as I always do) it starts to spin too freely so I take a look and it comes out in my hand with what looks like a heli-coil wrapped round it.

I can't beleive it came from the factory with that insert so I guess the PO did it.

So, how to fix it ? Another helicoil or ? I am a little leery of doing this myself since I really don't want to screw it up. How easy a fix is it ?

Cheers
:cheers:
 
Mercury264;24611 said:
So, how to fix it ? Another helicoil or ? I am a little leery of doing this myself since I really don't want to screw it up. How easy a fix is it ?
Click to expand...

Helicoils are quite simple but if you are a bit unsure.
Have a reputable shop do it and ask if you may watch.
Be careful, I have seen some shops screw it up too.

Some shops have a policy of not letting the costumers in their shops
Good luck.:cheers:
 
This is what came out - I assume the bit on the right is the heli-coil :excuseme:

IMGP4254.jpg


I can't believe it came with that in it so the PO must have done it.

Another option I guess is to to go up size and tap a new thread for a bigger bolt.
 
Mercury264;24611 said:
Does the oil check bolt have an insert from the factory ?
I can't beleive it came from the factory with that insert
Click to expand...

I noticed that my oil check bolt hole looks like it has an insert in it also. I guess that they didn't want to run the bolt threads right against the softer metal case material.:excuseme:
 
Dirtdame;24671 said:
I noticed that my oil check bolt hole looks like it has an insert in it also. I guess that they didn't want to run the bolt threads right against the softer metal case material.:excuseme:
Click to expand...

Thanks DD :thumbsup:

Interesting, I wonder how to fix it in that case.
 
You could tap it out or, I am wondering:thinking:....if you could have somebody really good weld it shut and start over again with a stock size insert, etc.
 
Dirtdame;24676 said:
You could tap it out or, I am wondering:thinking:....if you could have somebody really good weld it shut and start over again with a stock size insert, etc.
Click to expand...

Wow:eek:
Wouldn't go that route, Pull engine, split cases, etc.

Take the bike to your local shop and have them put the next size Heli-coil in.
Might have to use some ingenuity not to get any filings in your engine case.:thumbsup:
Good Luck.
 
HuskyDude;24677 said:
Wow:eek:
Would go that route Pull engine split cases etc
Click to expand...

Why would you split the cases? Just take the primary cover off of that side and take it to a good machine/welding shop.:D
 
Dirtdame;24681 said:
Why would you split the cases? Just take the primary cover off of that side and take it to a good machine/welding shop.:D
Click to expand...

:notworthy: I guess I never really looked to see where the drain plug was.

My bad...I know it's on the bottom so the oil drains out.:D
 
HuskyDude;24683 said:
:notworthy: I guess I never really looked to see where the drain plug was.

My bad...I know it's on the bottom so the oil drains out.:D
Click to expand...

I thought he was talking about the oil CHECK bolt. The little one on the side of the motor case.:confused:
 
When we get a customer who's tired of dealing with the check bolt and decides to get a skyda cover I try to remember to ask them how they fixed their check bolt. The most common is to put in the next size helicoil, or timesert and add a small o ring under the bolt to prevent leaks. Lots of people also clean out the hole as good as possible, goop it up with JB weld and jam a button head bolt in there.
 
I took the JB weld route after mine decided it didn't want to stay in anymore and it's held up great! I wasn't going to use it anyways since I put on a Skyda cover (old school logo version or is it the OG version :lol:) Just clean it up well and JB the stock bolt in place. It's a lot easier than stressing over coils, tapping and the such.
 
RumRunner;24750 said:
I took the JB weld route after mine decided it didn't want to stay in anymore and it's held up great! I wasn't going to use it anyways since I put on a Skyda cover (old school logo version or is it the OG version :lol:) Just clean it up well and JB the stock bolt in place. It's a lot easier than stressing over coils, tapping and the such.
Click to expand...

+2
 
Im partial to my "Old School Skyda Logo" also. Its a classic collector item now. Ill sell it to you Mercury264 but you will have to pay double for the collector price!:lol: Im for the Thread it, JB weld and screw.

mike
 
Thanks to all for the replies.

After sleeping on it, here's my plan of action:

1. Go buy a nice tap and die set - 'cos I don't have one and I have always wanted an excuse to buy one
2. Tap the hole to the next size up - being very careful to keep the shavings out the engine. I will grease the heck out of the tap and clean it repeatedly and I might even tip the bike over a little to get a 'little' flow of oil out the hole to wash the shaving away from the hole a little
3. JB weld a bolt in there
4. Order a 7602 clutch cover
5. Top the oil up
6. Go ride
7. Fit the new cover at the next oil change

The more I thought about it the more I figured that the bolt is just a stupid idea and even if I fix it so I can still use it, it may well (prob will) go again but I really really want a way to check the oil level so the new cover solves that problem.

Thoughts ?
 
Mercury264;24776 said:
Thanks to all for the replies.

After sleeping on it, here's my plan of action:

1. Go buy a nice tap and die set - 'cos I don't have one and I have always wanted an excuse to buy one
2. Tap the hole to the next size up - being very careful to keep the shavings out the engine. I will grease the heck out of the tap and clean it repeatedly and I might even tip the bike over a little to get a 'little' flow of oil out the hole to wash the shaving away from the hole a little
3. JB weld a bolt in there
4. Order a 7602 clutch cover
5. Top the oil up
6. Go ride
7. Fit the new cover at the next oil change

The more I thought about it the more I figured that the bolt is just a stupid idea and even if I fix it so I can still use it, it may well (prob will) go again but I really really want a way to check the oil level so the new cover solves that problem.

Thoughts ?
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me w/the exception of tapping the thread in-place. I'd remove the whole cover before I ran a tap through. Maybe that's a little overkill but then you would be sure that no metal shavings got in the motor.
But if your just going to JB weld it in place anyway you don't have to go through all that. Just use the same bolt and goop it in there. A few thousand miles and mines happily still holding up! I just checked and I actually used quick steel not JB. I chose it because it filled the void in the missing threads better.
However you should go buy a good tap and die set :thumbsup: Any excuse is a good excuse to buy tools!

And a shameless plug for the Skyda cover... It's a beautiful addition to the bike! Old school / Classic logo (which I happen to dig) or not it's one of the best things I have put on the bike....
:cheers:
 
I would buy the 7602 cover, pull the old one off, then do up the whole with JB and a screw. The reason for tapping the hole with the cover off is so you can get out any metal shavings. Then after clean up, putting on the new cover.

Also, i do alot of metal fabricating and use my tap and die set almost every day. Get some AnchorLube. It will retain most of the metal shavings while lubing the metal to cut the threads.

Good luck. I hope it turns out for you. You will be very satisfied with the Skyda cover. Super fast shipping from them also.

mike
 
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