Ok I have a noob questions for everyone so if the answer is simple or posted before take it easy on me! I just did my 1st oil change on my 2012 TE449 and installed the ZipTy recirculation kit. Everything went well and based on my research here I was looking to re-fill it with 1200ml of Mobil 1 0W40. Using a graduated funnel I got about 1150 in while on the side stand before it overflowed out the fill....so is this normal? How does everyone get 1200ml or more into it? Do you have to start it after say 800ml to get it out of the sump to allow for more, or did I just not get all the old oil out? Changed the filter and cleaned both screens and tilted it while draining so I thinking there is a trick I'm missing??? I'd like to know for the next oil change so any insight is appreciated!
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
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Oil change question
- Thread starter richndan
- Start date
Husq-a-daygo
Husqvarna
AA Class
tilt the bike over when filling. Also I put the bike in 3rd gear at the end of the draining process and push the bike forward a couple of feet so the oil pump pushes out the remnants.
MorrisBetter
Husqvarna
AA Class
Don't want to hijack your thread, but...
I used Mobil1 min my TE510, but switched to Motul 300V after having grabby clutch problems when cold. No clutch issues now.
For what it's worth, my car mechanic really dislikes Mobil1. He claims that the additives are inadequate, and he sees premature cam wear on some of the engines he works on. Using Mobil1 I was having lots of lifter noise (Chevy LS2) and he recommended using Amsoil. I switched and three changes later the liter noise is gone. I do my own oil changes, so the mechanic had nothing to gain from me switching. He even told me where to buy it at a reasonable price. I never used to believe in the super oil stuff, but I'm convinced now.
I used Mobil1 min my TE510, but switched to Motul 300V after having grabby clutch problems when cold. No clutch issues now.
For what it's worth, my car mechanic really dislikes Mobil1. He claims that the additives are inadequate, and he sees premature cam wear on some of the engines he works on. Using Mobil1 I was having lots of lifter noise (Chevy LS2) and he recommended using Amsoil. I switched and three changes later the liter noise is gone. I do my own oil changes, so the mechanic had nothing to gain from me switching. He even told me where to buy it at a reasonable price. I never used to believe in the super oil stuff, but I'm convinced now.
Tinken
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Funny, we had that same issue with Amsoil. But Amsoil makes some great packages as well. Mobil1 0W40 has a great additive package and does not produce a grabby clutch, shifts smooth through the gears with little or no wear, my engine was proof of that. 300V is a great oil, I like their 5W40. Rotella T6 is outstanding and is used by team KTM. Torco makes some of the best packages in the world and is why the US Military uses it in all of their UAVs. But for the cost and performance, you cannot beat M1 0W40, period.
Your grabby clutch problem was undoubtedly too thick of oil at start up, not brand specific. Even 10W40 is really thick when cold.
OlderHuskyRider
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I just did my 17th oil change with 100% M1 0w40 put back in the bike, I had been mixing 0w40 and 15w50, it's been so cold here, start ups have been harder than usual, this 0w40 is very good on super cold start ups, I am idling higher than I ever have at raw startup, I am sold on 0w40 for winter use.
N4544D
Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi richndan,
I put in 1,000 cc first, start it up, then put another 200cc in. I have never had any oil blow by issues and have just the zipty breather installed.
N4544D
Husqvarna
AA Class
Good call, that was our family airplane when I was learning to fly in high school. Spent many hours in that one...
Thanks all for the replies....I figure I got about 1150 in it before it started to spill over so I'm good for now till the next oil change. Forgetting the manual how often does everyone change their oil? I'm just an average trail rider and put about 40-60 miles on the bike each time I go out. Do you use time (hours) or mileage and what interval? Just curious to see what everyone is doing.
N4544D
Husqvarna
AA Class
I change depending on my riding. After break-in, I think 300 miles of hard riding (full throttle hill climbs and other abuse) is very safe and I'd feel comfortable with 500 miles if it's more mellow riding. I just rode 700 miles in Baja without a change. It was definitely ready at that point though and came out nice and dark, lol.
MorrisBetter
Husqvarna
AA Class
Can't argue with the price argument. M1 is less than 300V but not by much. I found a local guy that sells if for $50/Gal. is I buy two.
The clutch problem was a severe chatter during aggressive starts, and I doubt it was the viscosity of the M1. 300V is like molasses when cold and I don't have the same problem.
Hughisdaft
Husqvarna
B Class
Have any of you experienced smoke blowing from the exhaust on your te 449's I have just purchased a 2011 smr 449 with 2500km on it, I was wondering if it could be an oil leak as I seem to be racing through my oil, It has only happened to me twice each time after starting it cold and leaving it idiling on the stand for three to five minutes, on the first twist of the throttle I get a cloud of smoke and then it clears up and returns to normal, The issue dosent seem to happen if I start the bike in a level position and not lent over on the kickstand, I will be taking it into a husqvarna specialist in the upcoming week regardless and having them look over a few things any and all help will be appreciated
singleslammer
Husqvarna
C Class
Hugh, I have noticed the same issue. I wonder if it isn't a little bit of oil making its way into the airbox.
Tinken
Husqvarna
Pro Class
It is usually oil in the air box. My oil recirculation system helps to cure this problem.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ztr-oil-recirculation-system.39308/
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ztr-oil-recirculation-system.39308/
djdougiedoug
Husqvarna
A Class
Hughisdaft - My SMR does exactly the same, it doesn't smoke on start up but first blip of the throttle = large puff of smoke.
Tinken - If you can't afford the recirculation system, could the oil pipe just be rediredted from the airbox to a catch can?
Tinken - If you can't afford the recirculation system, could the oil pipe just be rediredted from the airbox to a catch can?
Tinken
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Dangermouse449
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I'm reckon I'm gonna get a great run out of my 449 then
I do my Castrol full synthetic every 5 hrs while it still has colour in it (That's usually less than 100km!!)
Might be why I got almost 190hrs out of the WR450 before I sold it for this bike.....
Oil is heaps cheaper than repairs
