• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Oil Change & Other Questions

Jim M

Jim M

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just have to say, I picked up a TE630 4 weeks ago (1st bike) and love it. Had myself convinced for many years I wasn't meant to ride because of several stupid things I did on bikes when i was a lot younger. Came to the recent realization that, hey, if I'm not wasted maybe this bike thing would work!

There are 400 miles on the bike & I want to change the oil. Is there any point to changing to regular oil or should I stick with the synthetic blend that came in the bike? In the usb maintenance directions there are no torque specs for any of the screws or plugs, do you just "tighten them?"
The 2 metal filters on the left hand side look easy to remove but the one on the right side, the picture in the manual looks like you have to take part of the crankcase cover off?

Would a bike stand make this work easier, would be nice to have the bike sitting on a shop bench;)
 
Yes, you have to take the clutch side case cover off (13 screws IIRC). Take note of where the longer screws go, since they are not all the same length. You'll have to take the brake pedal off, but it's easy enough to just swing it out of the way once the bolt is out. Torque the case cover bolts, oil filter cover, and oil screen cover to 6.5ftlbs. The 14m drain plug gets torqued to 18ftlbs and the big 12m allen drain plug gets torqued to 44ftlbs (IMO that's a bit high so I only went to about 35 with no leaks or loosening yet.)

It's easy enough to do this with the bike on it's kick stand, but your back would thank you if you had it on a bench!!
 
Hey, thanks for the information. While I was snooping around, had a look at the air filter box. Do either of these pieces need tweaking or are they the unrestricted styles?

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Glad to have found this forum thanks to everyone who posts all the great information.
Are the parts or service manuals available online?
 
HI Jim M,

Took me some searching to find the manuals and stuff like that. I have come from the husaberg world and have had my Husky 630 for 3 weeks now. I also have about 400miles on the bike. I can give you some quick tips that may save you some searching.
Seems most guys take out that Air intake baffle or "maze" when they do the "power up" modification. This "power up" mod removes the oxygen sensor and causes the bike to run richer and smoother. This way the bike isn't running lean and you are safe to do things that increase air flow (probably doesn't really matter -IMO). I did the PU modification to my bike on day 1. The oil filter on the right side (hard to get one) usually stays pretty clean - from what i have read. So, i just changed the oil and cleaned the left side screens. I did this at 300miles and there was some flakes and junk in the screens, but they were by no means close to being plugged. I will clean all the filters and change the oil again when i do the valves around 600miles or whenever its convinient. In my opinion the torque specs are a little tight in the book (for the oil plugs) - so I went by feel. Talk to "jtemple" about a manual, he can give you a link. He has service and parts manuals.
Be aware that adjusting the chain isn't straight forward. I did exactly what the manual said and it was too tight. Yesterday, after i set the sag (had to back rear spring way off) - only then was i able to use 2 ratchet straps and suck the ass end down so the swing was parallel to the ground. This is where the chain is the tightest. I was surprised how LOOSE the chain really needs to be to allow for the suspention movement.
I also noticed that my air filter wasn't making a perfect seal. I could tell by the oil marks when i removed the filter. I used NGLI2 grease to create a 100% seal around the perimeter of the air filter (common practice on dirt bikes).
Thats all i can think of right now. Maybe you know most of this, but some of it may help.
 
I took out my air filter today to have a look. From the dust deposits, it seems to me that all of the air is going through the filter element right at the snorkel. that is, air does not seem to be moving down the length of the filter cover (the top piece in photo above). Strikes me as a poor design -- the filter element compresses when the cover is screwed on so that only the snorkel end does any filtering work.
 
Jim M said:
Just have to say, I picked up a TE630 4 weeks ago (1st bike) and love it. Had myself convinced for many years I wasn't meant to ride because of several stupid things I did on bikes when i was a lot younger. Came to the recent realization that, hey, if I'm not wasted maybe this bike thing would work!

There are 400 miles on the bike & I want to change the oil. Is there any point to changing to regular oil or should I stick with the synthetic blend that came in the bike? In the usb maintenance directions there are no torque specs for any of the screws or plugs, do you just "tighten them?"
The 2 metal filters on the left hand side look easy to remove but the one on the right side, the picture in the manual looks like you have to take part of the crankcase cover off?

Would a bike stand make this work easier, would be nice to have the bike sitting on a shop bench;)
Click to expand...
The type of oil you use is full of all kinds of debate on any motorcycle. Personally, I use Rotella T6 Synthetic because it's a cheap, well reviewed synthetic oil. I change my oil quite a bit more frequently than required by the manufacturer.

The USB owner's manual, quite frankly, sucks. If you want a true shop manual and parts catalog, hit me up via PM. It has all the torque values you need in it.

The left hand metal screens are intended to be cleaned with every oil change. The right hand metal screens are intended to be cleaned at valve check intervals (every 3000 miles). I have 8000 miles on my bike and have pulled that right side screen several times and it has been spotless every time. I'm due for another valve check here in 1000 miles and I plan to pull the clutch cover and check that screen again. I don't expect to find anything in it.

I use a Craftsman ATV jack for my bike. They cost about $100.
 
Thanks for the good info on the torque specs. I am changing mine today as well!

JTemple I have been trying to Pm you for a manual but I dont have permission, assuming its because I am a brand new member..
 
Ah...yes...what oil to use...
Some interesting thoughts: My husaberg called for engine rebuild every 50hrs. The race guys were actually doing these frequent rebuilds and where measuring all the wearing parts. they would micrometer the cam lobes, crank journal, wrist pin ect. ect. They say they saw LESS WEAR with non-synthetic oil. Most of them were using Cheveron Delo 400 15w-40 diesel engine oil. they said the EP (extreme pressure) additives in the diesel oil was great for cam lobe shear and the tranny gears and bearings. the race guys also were doing oil sample analysis and found the real issue was clutch contaminates in the engine oil - not the non-synthetic oil braking down due to heat.
My husky 630 has 15w-40 engine oil in it, and my last 2 husabergs and honda had 15w-40 from day 1. $4/quart. sometimes i run shell rotrella T 15w-40 non-synthetic as well. its easier to find compared to the Delo 400. i will change my oil every 1000miles to keep the clutch material to a minimum.
 
...just for the record... I'm not a "oil argument guy". I just find the mechanical stuff interesting, and i'm at work, and i'm board, and i have time to type about non-sense.:D
 
The manual (ask "jtemple"nicely) is a MUST and should have been sent out with every bike sold. I don´t bother with the small filter hidden under the casing. The manual says that the 630 takes TWO litres of oil. The oil level in the inspection window hardly registers after filling with two litres and comes a third of the way up after 3.5 litres. And then you get the typical mess over the casing when the excess oil spills out. What have I done wrong?
 
organ donor said:
The manual (ask "jtemple"nicely) is a MUST and should have been sent out with every bike sold. I don´t bother with the small filter hidden under the casing. The manual says that the 630 takes TWO litres of oil. The oil level in the inspection window hardly registers after filling with two litres and comes a third of the way up after 3.5 litres. And then you get the typical mess over the casing when the excess oil spills out. What have I done wrong?
Click to expand...
My bike takes about 1.8 quarts (1.7 liters) when I warm the bike up, open both drain plugs on the bottom of the bike, remove the left-side screens, tip the bike from side to side several times so all the oil sloshes out, and replace the oil filter.

When I fill it up, I level the bike on a jack, dump 1.75 quarts in, then start & run the bike for a minute, checking for leaks. When I shut the bike off, I let the oil in the sight glass settle, and then top it off with the remaining 0.05 quarts, or whatever it takes to show up in the sight glass.

My guess is you're over filling it. You read the sight glass when the bike is standing straight up, on level ground. Not while it's on the kickstand.
 
organ donor said:
The manual (ask "jtemple"nicely) is a MUST and should have been sent out with every bike sold. I don´t bother with the small filter hidden under the casing. The manual says that the 630 takes TWO litres of oil. The oil level in the inspection window hardly registers after filling with two litres and comes a third of the way up after 3.5 litres. And then you get the typical mess over the casing when the excess oil spills out. What have I done wrong?
Click to expand...

You are putting almost 2 liters too much in the oil pan... It takes almost a full minute for the sight glass to become useful and that is with hot oil. All the other bikes I've had positioned the sight glass right in the crankcase reservoir - this one must have tiny little passages for the oil to get to the glass. Freaked me out the first time I checked and thought the dealer forgot to add oil to my bike. Use the method jtemple does above and it works great.
 
Right ... I believe you.But the bike had been ridden and was upright. And the sight glass still only showed about 1/4 with 2 litres of oil.
 
Yeah, just wait til you overfill the bike and your airbox starts puking oil out the bottom all over the brake pedal, clutch cover and swingarm.
Then wait til the oil runs down the swingarm and dribbles on your rear rotor, and ends up soaking into your rear brake pads basically eliminating all rear braking.
There's not a good way to get synthetic oil out of brake pads short of replacing them....

Yeah, I learned my lesson... out came the siphon tube.

Basically, if you put more than 2 quarts in, you're doing something very wrong.
 
RDTCU said:
Yeah, just wait til you overfill the bike and your airbox starts puking oil out the bottom all over the brake pedal, clutch cover and swingarm.
Then wait til the oil runs down the swingarm and dribbles on your rear rotor, and ends up soaking into your rear brake pads basically eliminating all rear braking.
There's not a good way to get synthetic oil out of brake pads short of replacing them....

Yeah, I learned my lesson... out came the siphon tube.

Basically, if you put more than 2 quarts in, you're doing something very wrong.
Click to expand...
 
I too would like to run Rotella 5-40 or 15-40 but the bike calls for a 10w-50, any thoughts here?? Also the first oil change or two should be done with standard dino oil, right?
 
you won't get straight answer when it comes to oil. it's like the old "should i drive a Ford or a Chevy?" Like i was saying a couple of posts back...the engine rebuild guys really like the 15w-40 dino oil. I like the fact these guys are actually measuring the wearing parts of their engine (cause i know i will never being doing that).
Husky calls for 10w-40...15w-40 is fine. Husaberg calls for 5w-50 synthetic only...90% of the guys were running dino 15w-40 rotella or cheveron delo 400---no issues at all.
I like the clutch feel with 15w-40 in my Husky. Maybe it was just that the oil was cleaner? My 1st oil change at 300miles had a fare bit of clutch contaminates in it. I was surprized.
 
BACKMARKER said:
I too would like to run Rotella 5-40 or 15-40 but the bike calls for a 10w-50, any thoughts here?? Also the first oil change or two should be done with standard dino oil, right?
Click to expand...
I use Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic in my bikes, cars and lawn mower.
 
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