• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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Öhlin TTX44 shock? Any good

I thought ya sposed to measure race sag first(aim for 100-105mm) then measure static sag to determine spring rate. Less than 20mm static nd firmer more than 35mm nd softer. Make sure bike fully fuelled n u kitted right up. Try measure with preload wound on a bit anyway n see wat u get.

Susp like jettin carbs it's all too hard for me! :)
 
Yep, try next one down. Race sag is much more important than static sag. Especially with that shock. Once you get the right spring, you can set it for anything with that magic lower rate clicker.
 
Right so I'm 70.05kg in my skivvies, with gear on I'm 78.5kg (think I need a bigger bike?)

So race sag is now at 75mm so thinking wtf downloaded the pro circuit sag set up an I'm an idiot I get all this way modding the world's most expecive shock and I don't remember how to do sag ffs supposed to add the static 30 to the weighted 75 that hits me right on 105mm (moron)

Now the weather's good have finished beetle an faffing in shed will take her out tomz as there's some woods on the way to an from work so that's where I'm at.
Whoop whoop all fueled up an ready to go.
 
Usually the correct shock spring will require close to 10mm of spring preload, if you have to go very far 1-2mm from that you most likely have the wrong spring... And yes you add static and rider sag together. :lol:
 
Yeah been so long since I did it last, 5 years that i completely forgot to add them just though how the hell am I far out. Lol
 
Oh man yeah ride her to work 4 times over the last week but frustrated as have to let air out of the rear tyre as on road i use 20 an off I use 0 but have just been about 10ish only on way home tho.

This bike now has issues with the front suspension.. lol it's just not good.

Plush and very smooth is a very good unit.
I'm going to have to wait a while untill next enduro as have been stupid busy with projects. Lol
 
So did the first enduro practice day yesterday 3 hours on the bike in the wettest snottyist mud plugging clay gunk you can imagine. The bike behaved perfectly squats down Nicely didn't pack over whoops and didn't throw me off into the barbed wire fence next to the track.
Man so I think it's going to be a bit harsh on the dry stuff if it ever dries out here.

Over all think the öhlins is a winner.
 
That's the beauty of the TTX. Just dial the lower comp adjust up or down to suit the conditions and fine tune with the upper comp and rebound.
 
Yup I'm liking the ease of the unit.
Now the question is do I go for öhlins up front too?
I don't really race hard but I'm definitely faster with lower seat an plush rear, did 14 laps of a6 mile loop and dont feel like a sac of beat up crap today so it's gotta be good.
 
Ya done good Juicy, just get the forks dialed with proper spring, valving, oil and you'll be more balanced than a tightrope walker.
 
Lol@ tight rope I used to do slack lining, yeah I'm deffo going to refurbish my front end.
May send it away one an get it checked over but the fronts where I want it no washouts and again no packing down.
What to do what to do. The öhlins front is pricy...
 
Swap out the triples for newer versions(48s) n get sum of the last Italian husky kybs(cc). Pretty much SSS forks but no need to change caliper, axle etc
 
Yeh SSS is Yammy patent but it's jus a wank name for their susp to help sell bikes really(it's worked bloody well too-nicely dun yammy). They jus CC 48 kybs with very slightly different internals. The husky kyb 48 CCs(TC/txc/cr/2014 te) were basically identical except obviously accepted brembos instead of nissin.
If u got same axle as newer bikes(think u do) might be a straight swap jus depend on whether ya triples accept em(thickness of tubes where go into triples). Triples be easy n cheap to find though as any of the later bikes would fit I'm pretty sure as they all ran kyb 48s(most OC like my bikes tho).

SSS very similar to pre air fork crf kybs n kxf/klx kybs(AOS air oil separated). Japs not silly they know wel buy shit with a fancy name!:)

The Showa CC 48s like on my old crfx n older suzukis(I think?) also were a copy/very similar of the SSS I believe. Yammy own kyb n Honda own Showa from memory the other 2 jus use them as suppliers. TM still run a kyb 48 CC SSS version on their enduro n mx bikes

Someone feel free to correct me on any n all of this:)
 
If they are 48 Zokes, those are quite excellent and very tunable. If not, Shawry does have a good idea. I run a TC 449 front end on my 250 and it's an excellent compliment to the TTX out back.
 
Looks like I will be looking for some SSS then.
Your right shawry they are 45's on my 02 360 still feel good.
The upgrade forks could be next year's option as I'm rolling up my newly acquired lathe so fairly skint at the moment.
Thanks for your help and suggestions will be mulling this over before sleep more often than not I'm sure.
 
48mm showas 2005 to 2008 crf450, 48mm kyb 2009 to 2012 both can be made into good enduro forks by removing shims and lowering oil level the earlier showaa need less shims removing to work well had to go into the kybs three times before i was happy.
THey ride better than my mates 2011 crf450 with unmodded ttx ohlins.
 
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