• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Official SMR 511 Mod thread

S

Suputin

Husqvarna
AA Class
Seeing as the 2011 bikes are quite different from earlier models and the SMR seems to be different in many ways from the TE, and this board is dominated by dirt guys, I thought it might be nice to try to collect all the mods, upgrades and improvements SMR 511 owners make to their bikes all in one thread so we can all benefit without having to scour the entire board.

The things I am after are:

Tail Light Tidy - to get rid of the ugly OEM licence plate mount.
Mirrors - cause the OEM ones look HORRIBLE.
Metal skid plate - plastic is OK but how much abuse is it going to take.
Exhaust
Exhaust pipe guards
Air filter
Crash protection - cause we all need it sooner or later.

Derestricting and powering up the motor.

Discuss ...... :cheers:
 
He also cobbled up some Axle sliders and peg sliders made from delrin, machined them up in his workshop.
Click to expand...

That is my plan. Benefits of having your own machine shop. :) I already bought the threaded rod.
 
Pipe and JD 6X EFI tuner make the bike have about 4-5 more HP and run WAY better even though it runs great as is.
 
Cool to see this thread. Wonder what little quirks will need changing on these bikes as you guys find them.. :thinking:
 
Will also be looking at this thread with interest.
Just bought a brand new SMR511 from Husky Sport in the UK and still running it in so will be leaving the engine well alone.

At present there doesn't seem to be much dedicated SMR511 products out there to buy.
So far I'm looking to buy some Polis SM handguards from the US.
I presume I need the tapered handlebar fitting kit???
75_1_ficha.jpg


I really miss having a rev counter so looking to add one of the following
Acumen PD8 Rev counter shift light, I might even fit a their gear indicator as well.

1196681294_PD8%20in%20Silver%20Housing_w175_h175.jpg

or a Trailtech TTO
72-A00_sensor_w450.jpg
 
We geared our demo up, went to a 40t rear sprocket to drop the engine speed a little on the open road. It's still plenty quick enough through the gears but cruises better in 6th now.

The carbon sump guard looks real trick too IMHO.

Dave
 
Posted this in another part of the site, but might as well share it with other 511 SMR owners, so far fitted akra, acerbis rally pro's, got rid of mirrors, changed front for guards to white because there was to much black at the front, also de-restricted to run the pipe, since i have had that done bike is alot more responsive and no trying to stall when going down through the box.
to come: sort ugly rear end out, white side panels with new graphics, shorter front brake lever as stock is just touching hand guards and any suggestions are welcome :)
31554e4a.jpg
 
Acerbis RallyGuards
I installed a set of Acerbis Rally Guards on mine last night. In the end they fit fine but it required a bit of screwing around to get them to fit.

Clutch Side:
The clutch banjo fitting has to be loosened and rotated up so the clamp will fit.

Brake Side:
As noted above, the brake lever is way too long. I loosened the master cylinder and moved it as far inboard on the bar as possible but the lever still hits the guard when the supplied spacer is used. I solved the problem by machining up a longer bar end spacer so the guard sits out a bit further to leave room for the brake lever. Benefits of having your own machine shop. :)
 
Adjust shift pedal.
The shift pedal location as installed by the factory is ridiculously high making it nearly impossible to shift reliably while seated.

Adjusting the pedal has to be a bad joke. The "engineer" who designed the shift pedal arrangement should be beaten to death with a large wrench. It is such a ridiculous arrangement of parts you have to wonder what they were thinking. To adjust the shift pedal the skid plate has to be removed and the rear wheel loosened so the chain can be loosened on the front sprocket.

Getting at the bolt that secures the shift lever is an exercise in frustration. The frame rail is in the way so the only way to do it is to bend a long hex key so it will clear the frame rail. You end up with a tool that is only good for that one job and even then it has to be done 1/4 turn at a time. :(

Then, once the retaining bolt is removed, the pedal won't come off the splines because the chain is in the way. Hence the need to loosen the rear wheel, get the chain off the rear sprocket and wiggle the chain out of the way of the shift pedal so it can be removed.

The job can be done but it isn't something I'd want to do more than once. Breaking a shift pedal is gonna suck!
 
Adjust Brake Pedal
This is a lot easier than the shift pedal. The actuation pin that screws into the clevis comes out of the master cylinder easily so you can pull it out and adjust it in your hands without having to fit a wrench into a confined space. Just pull the split pin and remove the retaining pin and the actuator comes right out.

I am an ex-roadracer so I like my pedals set low for the sitting position and I like to keep my foot on the peg because that makes it easier to be precise with the rear brake. In order to adjust the brake pedal down as far as possible, I had to trim off the end of the actuator pin so it wouldn't hit the pedal itself. That is fairly simple to do and also common requirement with most bikes.

The eccentric pedal stop is kind of a cool arrangement. To adjust the height of the pedal stop the eccentric is loosened and rotated. It is a simple yet effective solution that offers infinite adjustability.
 
Suputin said:
Adjust shift pedal.
The shift pedal location as installed by the factory is ridiculously high making it nearly impossible to shift reliably while seated.

Adjusting the pedal has to be a bad joke. The "engineer" who designed the shift pedal arrangement should be beaten to death with a large wrench. It is such a ridiculous arrangement of parts you have to wonder what they were thinking. To adjust the shift pedal the skid plate has to be removed and the rear wheel loosened so the chain can be loosened on the front sprocket.

Getting at the bolt that secures the shift lever is an exercise in frustration. The frame rail is in the way so the only way to do it is to bend a long hex key so it will clear the frame rail. You end up with a tool that is only good for that one job and even then it has to be done 1/4 turn at a time. :(

Then, once the retaining bolt is removed, the pedal won't come off the splines because the chain is in the way. Hence the need to loosen the rear wheel, get the chain off the rear sprocket and wiggle the chain out of the way of the shift pedal so it can be removed.

The job can be done but it isn't something I'd want to do more than once. Breaking a shift pedal is gonna suck!
Click to expand...
I had exactly the same problem, it must have been about an hour of frustration and stubbed fingers that i got mine done, i didn't think about the rear wheel trick, i do not want to do it again, sod breaking that thing! :banghead:
 
With a bit of research I have been able to confirm the HiFlow HF611 is the correct oil filter for the 511. I found some for cheap on Amazon.com. Even with the shipping they will end up costing 1/3 what I paid at the dealer.
 
I've got a load of bits to go on mine, including a translogic quickshifter, 5" rear rim, chain, tyres, 39tooth rear sprocket. I'm just waiting for payday to get them fitted!

I've also put numberboards on which look cool, and black acerbis handguards.

I'll put some pics up once its sorted
 
70RSMAT said:
I've got a load of bits to go on mine, including a translogic quickshifter, 5" rear rim, chain, tyres, 39tooth rear sprocket. I'm just waiting for payday to get them fitted!

I've also put numberboards on which look cool, and black acerbis handguards.

I'll put some pics up once its sorted
Click to expand...
what 5 rim you got? i cant find anything i want to fit a 160 on it.
 
Its a warp 9, looks good but i dunno how well it fits yet, 5" rims aren't listed but if you email them they can do you one
 
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