All 2st O-ring chain ?

[juicypips]

kelly, i know your messing but i clean the chain while i have either drained or got the container with it in usually outa my 2 smoke so 75w light gear oil
get one of those strainers your missus uses for peas put chain in that and dunk it in the oil for a few mins, pick up outta the nurky stuff and drain over old oil.

gloves reinstall done.
strech non strech elastic plastic who cares just keep an eye on it!

 

[Motosportz]

I hated chain lube til I found this. Not sticky and messy. Lube all my chains o-ring or not with it before very ride. The consistency is perfect for my use.

 

[Boogie]

I hated chain lube til I found this. Not sticky and messy...

Who cares about function, does it match your bike like this stuff?

Comes in Italian RED and Swedish BLUE

http://www.ipone.fr/EN/off-roads,worlds-7

(stupid link! Click CHAIN then RACING CHAIN)

 

[msmith345]

I started using silicone spray for just about anything requiring lubrication. Chain, cables, foot pegs, shifter tips, etc. It's less sticky than PJ1, and a few bucks a can cheaper. Cleans up easier. I'm sure it's not penetrating as well as stuff specifically designed for o-rings, but I think it works pretty well for an all purpose lube.

Once I start getting some holeshots again, I'll go back to using the Silkolene chain lube that they hand out to the holeshot winner in one of the series I run. That stuff was nice, but you had to let it set up as it sprayed on super thin, soaks in and then tacks up as it dries. If you ran it too soon it would fling off.

 

[Zomby woof]

I use this, and apply it liberally.

 

[Motosportz]

 

[ray_ray]

Right on. You guys are googling "chain stretch", and haven't actually OBSERVED THE BEHAVIOR of several thousands new chains in the first few minutes of their life with a MOTORCYCLE under varying torque loads. It isn't wear, and it isn't a terminology issue, something else is at play. Carry on.

I'm just looking at this picture ... I did have to go confirm where the pitch is measured ... But not alot of moving parts here and not too complex really .... The pic came from a post earlier on this thread.

I only observe my chains (and sprockets) and the effect these chains and sprockets have directly my wallet. And I'm not expiring to be a chain engineer at this late date in life, but I do get much longer life out of these devices, now at this late stage in life, with a toothbrush and expensive engine oil that spent about 15 or more hrs inside my engine before it goes on my chains.

Maybe my riding style has changed enabling longer chain life? Maybe steel sprockets are better for chains also? I've got steel and ALUM on my bikes currently with the same chains...This will be interesting to see how long that ALUM sprocket lasts compared to the steel teeth sprockets... Check the ride reports and racing reports from 2009 till 2014 and see if you see any changes to my riding style ..

 

[Boogie]

Check out this video. Thermographic image comparison of a standard chain, sintered bush chain and a sealed (o-ring) chain.

http://www.did-coltd.com/english/products/swf/x-ring.swf?width=640&height=397

 

[shawbagga]

yeh im with msmith345, silicone spray does it all, cheap & not messy/sticky

 

[Motosportz]

Maybe steel sprockets are better for chains also?

there are all qualities of steel sprockets but generally they are much longer lasting and better for the chain. They are not popular because they weigh 3x plus what an aluminum one does and that is both driven and suspended weight so it is EZ and important weight to loose for many.

 

[Motosportz]

yeh im with msmith345, silicone spray does it all, cheap & not messy/sticky

thats what I used to use, did not seem like it left enough on the chain and I wondered about how much lubricating it might be doing.

 

[juicypips]

Check out this video. Thermographic image comparison of a standard chain, sintered bush chain and a sealed (o-ring) chain.

http://www.did-coltd.com/english/products/swf/x-ring.swf?width=640&height=397

160 hours to get to 120 degs, my average ride is about three hours give or take a few.

if thats real then yup i aint using non oring again

 

[steadydirt]

Any thoughts on the chain guards that used to come on the WR;s? Seemed to extend the chain life- kept a lot of mud off the chain and out of the sprockets?

 

[steadydirt]

I'm just looking at this picture ... I did have to go confirm where the pitch is measured ... But not alot of moving parts here and not too complex really .... The pic came from a post earlier on this thread.

I only observe my chains (and sprockets) and the effect these chains and sprockets have directly my wallet. And I'm not expiring to be a chain engineer at this late date in life, but I do get much longer life out of these devices, now at this late stage in life, with a toothbrush and expensive engine oil that spent about 15 or more hrs inside my engine before it goes on my chains.

Maybe my riding style has changed enabling longer chain life? Maybe steel sprockets are better for chains also? I've got steel and ALUM on my bikes currently with the same chains...This will be interesting to see how long that ALUM sprocket lasts compared to the steel teeth sprockets... Check the ride reports and racing reports from 2009 till 2014 and see if you see any changes to my riding style ..

For reliability/no maintenance situation the steel rear sprocket is the way to go. Heavy yes but imagine how far you would not get with an aluminum countershaft sprocket!! Remember years ago somebody tried to sell plastic countershaft sprokets?!

 

[ray_ray]

Any thoughts on the chain guards that used to come on the WR;s? Seemed to extend the chain life- kept a lot of mud off the chain and out of the sprockets?

I just knock the mud off my chain. I'm probably not in as much mud as many of you might be though... Not sure what effects keeping ~all mud off would really have ... Maybe different dirt\mud types matter here? Sand is what scares me ... This used oil I put on my chains is probably not for sand riding.

there are all qualities of steel sprockets but generally they are much longer lasting and better for the chain. They are not popular because they weigh 3x plus what an aluminum one does and that is both driven and suspended weight so it is EZ and important weight to loose for many.

That supersprocket in the pic I posted is the sprocket for me ... ~$72, 3/4 ALUM, 1/4 steel ... But I just put on a new ALUM sprocket on another TC250 I have ... Same bike model and size, same new chain on both bikes, same rider usually, same spent motor oil for lubing each ... Same conditions usually make up a equal test bed ... I'm expecting to see a real difference in their lifespan before one needs to be changed. At the same time, I'm hoping that ALUM sprocket exceeds my expectations .. Seems like I can't stop testing for a more cost effect way to do all my dirt bike riding...

 

[msmith345]

In my experience an aluminum Renthal sprocket lasts about 10 hours. A supersprox stealth, 80+. Actually have never worn one over 100 hrs on one.

 

[ray_ray]

In my experience an aluminum Renthal sprocket lasts about 10 hours. A supersprox stealth, 80+. Actually have never worn one over 100 hrs on one.

Do you put any lube on the chain?

 

[msmith345]

Do you put any lube on the chain?

Always.

 

[Xcuvator]

Ironman rear sprockets are very durable high alloy steel long lasting sprockets that don't weigh much more than AL. Zipty sells them so that speaks for its self.

They are flat pretty to look at too!

 

[Kyle Tarry]

The stock aluminum rear sprocket on my WR made it about 50 hours (a full season of racing), and some of that was in unhappy conditions (sand, mud). I was pretty satisfied with that! The front made it probably 40 hours before I put a fresh one on. Amazingly, the chain still measured well within the pitch spec, so I put a new (steel) rear sprocket on, and will continue to use the stock chain (with careful monitoring, of course).