• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Noob working on 1984 WR250

varmint

varmint

Husqvarna
My%201984%20Husqvarna%20WR%20250_zpskyugnmxl.jpg


Hello All!

I don't know what I got myself into but I bought this 1984 WR 250 from a friend and hope to get it in shape for some NETRA (http://www.netra.org) Vintage Racing. Motor runs and goes through the gears but the clutch plates are stuck. Lots of missing parts but I hope to getting running strong and decent looking.

I have lots of questions and hope I'm not too annoying. I have some decent mechanical skills on modern bikes but nothing on this old stuff!
 
The carb is a round slide VM38, used on almost everything back then. You probably wont need new clutch plates, but you will need to take the clutch cover off and pry the plates apart by hand to get them unstuck. Then run some ATF type F, it will clean out all the built up gunk, ride and drain it a few times. I use ATF type F exclusively but if you want to use something else, just use the ATF to clean and flush the clutch and transmission.
 
Thank you for the carb info!

Good plan in the clutch plates. The oil in there is quite nasty. Peeking in the oil fill I see them separating a bit. Fresh oil will definitely clean it up.
 
The carb slide is likely worn as mine is. I have the same bike and got it 7 years ago in about the same conditiom as your's. You can get Mikuni parts from Sudco or any local dealer that works with. Are you located in New England?
 
buy a new carb, solves a million issues. if its rideable, ride it around till the clutch breaks and starts working and do the ATF trick, that will sort it. if you have to pull it down to break them, don't pull the kicker or the gear lever off, they stay on the cases and connect by slots to the gear box. real easy to pull the clutch down. chuck it on its side, undo the allen heads, very gently tap and work the cover of the two dowel pins and separate the gasket (always wants to break at the bottom screw where it can leak the most!) check in the tech ref section for the parts manual (ideal to work out what screw goes where) and check out the service manual as well for all two strokes. they are pretty common from 83 up. if they wont unstick and you pull it apart, give em a wash in petrol or some solvent and a light rub with 400 wet and dry paper to scuff em up a bit (the fibres not the steels).
 
jimspac said:
The carb slide is likely worn as mine is. I have the same bike and got it 7 years ago in about the same conditiom as your's. You can get Mikuni parts from Sudco or any local dealer that works with. Are you located in New England?
Click to expand...

I am in Bristol, CT... central Connecticut.
 
suprize said:
buy a new carb, solves a million issues. if its rideable, ride it around till the clutch breaks and starts working and do the ATF trick, that will sort it. if you have to pull it down to break them, don't pull the kicker or the gear lever off, they stay on the cases and connect by slots to the gear box. real easy to pull the clutch down. chuck it on its side, undo the allen heads, very gently tap and work the cover of the two dowel pins and separate the gasket (always wants to break at the bottom screw where it can leak the most!) check in the tech ref section for the parts manual (ideal to work out what screw goes where) and check out the service manual as well for all two strokes. they are pretty common from 83 up. if they wont unstick and you pull it apart, give em a wash in petrol or some solvent and a light rub with 400 wet and dry paper to scuff em up a bit (the fibres not the steels).
Click to expand...


Thanks for the tips. I took a vacation day tomorrow to play with this bike. Don't tell my boss!
 
Question 1a: Carb: the spec says VM38-41. What does the 41 mean? There are plenty of brand new VM38 carbs on ebay.
 
I have recently rebuilt one of these bikes myself. I broke the Liner in the Cylinder after a few rides. Shopping around for a used replacement I have found that this is a common problem. My bike was a very low hour bike when I bought it however it probably sat 25 years. I just ran the piston that was in there even though I knew it was a bit loose. Given the chance to do it all over, I would of done it right the first time. When the liner cracks, it pretty much takes out the whole Motor.
 
its a common problem. ride it cos ya cant wait or rebuild it properly. either or can give youo grief!
 
The -41 stands for the configuration, the VMs are available with flange mount, spigot mount, left or right side idle screw, no idle screw (for ultralight aircraft) and various other specifications. Any generic spigot mount VM38 is what you want, then any jetting that is not the same as your stock carb, buy the matching jets.
 
I split the case on mine to replace the crank seal and found a broken crank well. A previous owner had apparently run a previous piston with so much clearance that a piece of the skirt broke off. On the way into that I found broken posts on the clutch hub with a band aid repair not completed. I fixed the crankcase so the engine can be reassembled this winter. The frame and triple clamps have been repainted , the fork legs were painted, seals replaced, and currently borrowing wheels from one of my 82 WRs.

I work in New Britain and live in Somers
 
Taking a peak through the exhaust port, the cylinder looks pretty scratched. How tough is it to source too end parts? Should it get bored and a piston sized correctly? Know anyone who does that in CT or New England?
 
I think I would do a compression test first, good will be above 150 to 175 ish. I think the 125 range you would want to rebuild it. If you get it running after you change gear oil just pull your clutch in while you warm it up with some normal size revs and it usually breaks the clutch plates free it is a common problem even after you get it up and running . Good luck and a cool bike too.
 
Wossner and Weisco both make Pistons for these Bikes. The same pistons fits a lot of years and Cylinder designs. I would compare the Ports in the backside of the Piston to your original. E-bay should have them both and possibly an OEM every once and a wile. With modern bikes using Nikasil Cylinders shops doing Cylinder Liner replacement is a lost art. Getting somebody to bore a hone shouldn't be to hard as long You don't mind shipping it.
 
Good work killing the giant squirrel that mauled your husky.thats one tough looking bike.I would find a local reconditioner let them take a look at the cylinder measure and see what they recommend, no point buying next size piston if the liner is within specs or so badly gouged that you have to go two sizes up, check crank and squish at same time.i would also do a leak down test, no point doing all the engine without it.
 
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