• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Noise in rear shock

zambo

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi everyone I own a 2008 te310 I have done a bit of work to suspension new fork oil regreased headstock bearings replaced swingarm bearings and regreased links.I seem to have a ratcheting noise in the rear shock it seems to work all right for the rideing I do has anyone had this noise and how did you fix it , will it become a problem in the future? Another question my gear lever is too short it is after market and was on bike when I bought it. Do the earlier models like mine have a different lever. What type and brand would suit it. I am the only Husky rider around here not many people seem to like them , I think its becauce they don,t know the little idiosyncracies to set up and get them running right now I know my bike its great.
 
....I seem to have a ratcheting noise in the rear shock it seems to work all right for the rideing I do has anyone had this noise and how did you fix it , will it become a problem in the future? ...

Can you be any more descriptive? Is the ratcheting noise like slow speed clicking or high speed (almost like buzzing)? Where is it coming from? The shock or the swingarm? Are there any specific situations when it occurs such as when the rear is compressed or when it uncompresses?

My rear shock made a high speed ratcheting noise (slightly muffled so it sounded like it came from within the shock) when the rear suspension uncompressed quickly. My suspension tuner said it was to do with the rebound circuit so he fitted a Racetech Rebound Separator Valve and that seemed to solve the problem. What I didn't realise was that the rebound circuit actually affects the compression circuit too, so it helped the overall damping and adjust-ability of the rear shock. Works beautifully now. My shock is a Sachs so I dunno if it's the same as yours. Might be your problem though :excuseme:
 
Sounds like I could have a similar thing. Thats why I went through the other components first.The swing arm bearings were shot and the links were a bit dry I thought I was on to something but when I put it all together it had this noise. It is hard to describe but it is on the rebound stroke. I notice your from Sydney I live near Newcastle who fixed it for you and did it cost much?
 
... I notice your from Sydney I live near Newcastle who fixed it for you and did it cost much?

I got Terry Hay at Shock Treatment (http://www.shocktreatment.com.au/) to do my suspension (he's in Wallacia near Penrith in Western Sydney). I had a horrible accident thanks for a fork deflection that left me with a broken collarbone, so I had him do the full-monty both front and rear. I believe Terry actually invented the Racetech Rebound Separator Valve (RSV), so if anyone knows how it works it's him!

To get my forks and shock revalved with Racetech Gold Valves and the RSV, the right springs for my fat weight front and back, together with Rider-to-Bike setup and some tuning on his test track it set me back about a grand I think. Give him a call to get an idea of what it'll cost you as you might not need as much work done as me. Even if it does cost you a grand, it'll be the best grand you spend on your bike! He is also happy to help you fine tune the clickers by giving you feedback as long as you tell him what the bike is doing that you don't like. I have spoken to him several times since he did my bike and he's always happy to help (no charge!).
 
The fix on LTR website could be very cheap. He says to replace a 5.5mm ball bearing with a 4.75mm... that is all. Will cost less than a dollar and some time.

Whatever you do, please update us.


Is your Sachs shock grunting, moaning or groaning? Did it turn into an expensive spring guide and work like a pogo stick?
Recently we’ve had some of these coming through the shop, there are 2 unique and separate issues that we have resolved for the Sachs shock. It isn’t typical to see both issues on the same shock and it isn’t common enough to condemn the whole lot of them and prescribe the repair for every Sachs shock that comes through our door.
The first issue is a horrible vibrating grunt noise emanating from the shock on the rebound stroke. You can usually change the pitch or harmonics of it by increasing or decreasing the rebound damping, you know, that adjustment screw at the bottom of your shock? It sounds BAD, really bad! Not to worry though because we have isolated the problem and have a proper fix for this, and no, it wont cost a body part to repair it. The charge is just a normal shock service. We’ll even kick in the 25 cent countermeasure repair part no charge, such a deal we have for you! Click here for technical info.
 
I had this exact noise, replaced the 5.5mm ball bearing with a 4.75mm one and the noise is now gone. Although it does require dissasembly of the shock to get to it.
 
Thank everyone for the advice and information at the moment it is only a noise and the the shock works good enough for me.
I might get the fix one day but at the moment there are bills to pay you know the story. I like to pay cash for my toys and repairs.
 
Back
Top