No Toil - how much of it?

[shwaz]

so i just got my TE310, it's my first dirt bike, great.

i figured i should clean and re-oil the air filter. great.

i don't know what's been used on it prior, so i dunked it in kerosene, washed it for awhile, the red turned pretty black, got a lot of gunk out. great. rinsed with water, a LOT, let it dry. still stank like kerosene. washed it with more water and detergent (Tide), smells better, still faint kerosene smell. probably ok at this point, right?

so my plan now is to NOT use the No Toil cleaner (since it's clean now right, and anyway that stuff only cleans No Toil) and i'm going to apply No Toil filter oil. it says to saturate it and then squeeze off the excess, how serious is that "saturate"? because to me that means really let it soak in the stuff, and man it's so tacky and thick once it's dry i have a hard time believing that air's going to flow through it well, even though i'm squeezing out the excess.

sorry this is a dumb general moto question, not really husky specific at all, but your input is appreciated.

 

[ray_ray]

Good question on the amount of oil and this can very greatly per user I think ... I use as little as possible to save on the cost ... My filters are never saturated as much as most advertisements show but will have a slightly sticky feel to them after drying ... I just try to get an even supply of the oil over the filter ...

Not sure if you can clog a filter with too much oil but maybe it is possible ... The oil should have trap the dirt and it allows for the filter to shed water if wet ...

--
I also like using a 2 filter system ... Is it necessary? Probably not in normal riding. Usually the inside filter has almost no sign of dirt but I like this cheap ~insurance for my 4t bikes.

 

[AlwynMike]

I was asking this question too.
I ended up putting loads on the filter, most of which ended up at the bottm of the Husky excuse for an airbox.
The answers I got were to use a little - put a fair bit into a plastic bag, along with the filter.
Squeeze the oil well into the filter so it gets well coated, then squeeze the excess out again for use later.

Mike

 

[Motosportz]

First off you should get a brand new Notoil filter if your going that route. The notoil cleaner will make many filters split at the seams. Also you don't want regular foam oil on the filter ever as you cant get it out and notoil will also not get it all out. Just buy a Notoil filter and use their system, works fine.

As for how much, drip it on real good and knead it in. You dont want it dripping and saturated just a nice uniform coverage all kneaded in with no extra.

 

[ray_ray]

Also, someone out here has said he was using Oxy Clean & warm water for cleaning the no-toil oil.. Not sure how well this works on this either but if I see it sold here, I'll try it...

 

[Dangermouse449]

I've had no trouble going from old school oil based to No-toil on my filters. A couple of washes in turps, then warm car-wash detergent to get the filter oil out & finally no-toil powder.

My choice for filter oil is more is better.
Big dollar repairs on four stroke in worn valves, dust is a killer.
I wouldn't be trying to save money on filter oil.

 

[bensl]

ive been using notoil for years with twin air filters with no issues. i have a plastic tub that i keep the oil in. i dump in the filter, massage through and then squeeze out the excess and then put the lid back on for next time. i use those disposable latex gloves and throw them out after. makes cleanup a breeze.

for cleaning i use no-name napisan (with sodium percarbonate), dump it in a bucket of hot water and it comes out spotless.

 

[BadMotoWeazal]

I too have been using No Toil filter oil for a while on all brand of filters. I also use Oxy Clean or something similar to clean the filters, with lukewarm water as the hot water will make the filters separate at the seams. I pour the filter oil into a plastic tub, dip the filter in & squeeze the excess out, make sure to try & coat the filter evenly. Then I let the filter sit on a paper towel overnight so the alcohol can evaporate from the filter. There is a lot less oil inside my airbox when I let it sit. Chemicals & kerosene have no effect on cleaning a filter that has No Toil filter oil on them.

 

[Dangermouse449]

The latest No-Toil has no alcohol

http://notoil.com/products/evolution-air-filter-oil-3-item.html

 

[Zomby woof]

Also, someone out here has said he was using Oxy Clean & warm water for cleaning the no-toil oil.. Not sure how well this works on this either but if I see it sold here, I'll try it...

That may have been me. I've been doing it that way for about 6 years now. It works.

 

[Mr Ford40]

At the present I have Motul filter oil and do have brand new no toll filter cleaner and oil just waiting to finish the first. AN FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO BE CHEAP ON OIL FOR THERE FILTERS TRY CHAINSAW BAR OIL IT'S NICE AND TACKY AND DOESNT COST A FORTUNE. and as far as how much oil for the filter that depends on how much and how soon you want to rebuild your motor.

 

[rabskyline]

Anyone tried putting filter oil on with a small spray bottle ?
Hmmm, might try it.
Would give a nice even coat and very little waste too(if it sprayed out ok...)

 

[Zomby woof]

You can buy notoil in a spray can. I use that instead of the K&N oil for my K&N filters. Don't like the spray for the foam filters, though.

 

[BadMotoWeazal]

The latest No-Toil has no alcohol

http://notoil.com/products/evolution-air-filter-oil-3-item.html

It's not really new.... and I don't care for it, it just doesn't seem to get tacky enough. but to each their own****************************************

 

[Dangermouse449]

Seems to work fine & less goo in the air-box.
Main thing they say is it shouldn't attack the glues on some filters.

 

[need2boat]

I'm somewhat new or at least recently returning to the dirt after 15-20 years so lots has changed. I've tired a few techniques that all work:

I've poured the filter oil into a zip lock then put the filter in the bag and needing it. I've found with this the bag no matter how clean you work, rubber gloved or not, gets sticky so reusing the bag more then once or twice is the best you can do. You can just cut the corner off and pour the leftover into the next zip lock which works well. I use large zip locks from the dollar store and gloves from harbor freight to keep cost down.

The other technique is when opening the container, rather then pulling the foil off just poke holes in it and dab it on. I've found if you're cleaning it ever rider or so you really don't need to soak it thru and thru as some of the manufactures would have you. You really just need an even amount on the outside. If it looked a little spotty on the inside that's OK.

Lastly give it time to dry BEFORE installing in the bike. This will cut down on drips and goo inside the airbox.

For the cleaning I picked up a small lid/bucket used for mixing paint or epoxy from the hardware store, I think 5 quart. That works great for cleaning, I'd second the comment on watching the heat. I've had issues with the seams pulling apart and told use cooler water.

Joe

 

[Dangermouse449]

The 449/511 air filter set up is at the same time both the best thing & the worst thing on the bike.
I hate how you can't really tell 100% if it is sealed when fitted.
However, mounted up high where it is it never gets dirty.
3 or 4 rides and it still looks OK

 

[need2boat]

It's the flip side for the 310. To get at the filter without coating the bike with filter oil requires pulling the battery and holder every time. The 2013 model it looks like they routed the ground cables on the left side along with the power, making it easier to flip out of the way. I've not looked at one first hand to see if the relay stays in the same location.

Joe