• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

No oil pressure after gearbox rebuild 2008 TE610

Bullatthegate

Bullatthegate

Husqvarna
After getting my motor back from the bike shop for a gearbox repair I now have no oil pressure when I start the bike. Anyone have any ideas ? Taking it back to those people is not an option unfortunately as it took them 8 months to do the job and cost me an overseas holiday with the bike.
I am considering wrecking it now for the parts depending on what knowledge is available here so any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
How did you confirm no oil pressure? My 2011 630 doesn't even have a light. One possibility is they didn't line up the oil pump drive tab with the slot in the end of the crank when they put the clutch side cover on. Common mistake, however they usually still work even with one of the tabs on the crank broken.
 
I'd pull the clutch cover and the left side filter screen, that should tell you everything you need to know.

Unless they left a plug or seal out somewhere....
 
Thanks fellas.
Being absolutely disgusted with the sound of the motor when first started,I took it to another mechanic who told me he would have to spend a lot of time on it as he didn't know these bikes. This is the reason I didn't do it myself. He was the one that told me it had no oil pressure and this was the reason it sounded like a chaff cutter as he pulled it apart and told me it seemed like the problem was deep inside the motor. So I will have a look at now and see what I can find. Can't wait !
 
I know it doesn't help you now, but that is exactly why I would rather work on my own stuff and learn my own machine rather than take it to bullshit ass mechanics who make stupid excuses and end up doing the stuff I would have done anyway but for labour charges. Although a gearbox rebuild is quite a specialist thing I will admit.

Have you completed the necessary checks? Slacken the oil line to the rocker cover and see if there is oil coming out whilst the engine is running. Also make sure you have the correct oil level in there as well, it is 1.9 litres, but I put in 2 litres just to be sure.

Also on my cam chain thread there are photographs of the oil pump components and how it goes together:

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/2001-husqvarna-610-engine-rattle.1114892/

Hope you find the solution.
 
So you did the work on his bike huh? Care to explain why there is no oil pressure?:p I was referring to the mechanic who said he would need to spend "a lot of time" on the bike because he didn't know it. It is just a single cylinder thumper FFS! Like my local place, refused to swage the rocker arm because they "didn't know" the bike or the processes involved. The swaging was on the rocker arm itself rather than the holding pin and that threw them.
 
Thanks Flynn .
No I didn't do the work because I though by the time I taught myself how to do the gearbox it would be time to send the bike on the ship overseas for my holiday. I think I would have been better off doing it myself and I have also learned my lesson here. Expensive one at that. I would have also though it was just a single and not that much different to any other single cylinder Jap bike?
I will have a look at your thread and pull the engine out again and slowly look for the problem.
 
Oh and the second mechanic told me that he found it had no oil pressure .This is the reason it sounds like a chaff cutter and it would take a lot of time to find what the first one had stuffed up. He started to pull it apart and only got so far then called to tell me he would have to spend a lot of time on it.
 
Bullatthegate said:
After getting my motor back from the bike shop for a gearbox repair I now have no oil pressure when I start the bike. Anyone have any ideas ? Taking it back to those people is not an option unfortunately as it took them 8 months to do the job and cost me an overseas holiday with the bike.
I am considering wrecking it now for the parts depending on what knowledge is available here so any help will be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Reply # 2 is worth following up on. I had oil pump failure and a broken end piece on my crankshaft that drives the oil pump when the crankshaft end piece was not properly aligned with the oil pump when the clutch cover casing was refastened. The clutch cover casing also fractured in the oil pump area on start-up due to the misalignment. As a result I have needed to purchase a complete crankshaft and clutch cover casing and split the engine cases to fit the new crankshaft. I recommend you remove the clutch cover casing and inspect the oil pump area in the casing for damage, test the oil pump by seeing that it turns ok and inspect the end of the crankshaft to see the two end lugs for the oil pump are intact. Lesson: be careful that the lugs on the crankshaft and the oil pump are correctly aligned when reassembling the clutch cover casing. IF when screwing it down you meet resistance before the case is buttoned down it may indicate the pump/crankshaft lugs are not aligned. If so check, failure to do so may be very expensive.
 
Given the relatively simple nature of the oil circuit in these engines, if you have no pressure it's either the pump not pumping or there being a huge fucking hole in the circuit where all the pressure is lost. Like the other said, the pump is on the right side on the clutch cover, you should check that before dwelling any firther in the engine.
Well damn even check if the pump IS there, you never know.
 
Nice of you guys to help, but Bullatthegate was last dealing with this issue a little over a year and a half ago, and hasn't been back since.

Still useful advice you give, though, so not a waste of time in terms of others researching similar things.
 
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