Newbie!! 1979 250 Or

[Edward Rennie]

Hi guys, I’ve just joined the forum - what a great community! Some beautiful bikes on here. I’ve just bought my first Husky, as above a 1979 250 OR. I’ll be racing it in Vinduro events here in the UK - first outing in a few weeks . Anyone else here racing at Doddington?!

I’ve had a scan through the tech library, but don’t see any links for a manual for this year - would anyone be kind enough to point me in the right direction?!

Other than typical / routine checks and replacing oils, filters, spark plug etc etc my main issue with the bike as it is, is the front forks. I’ve ordered a new set of top out washers and seals and will fit them together with replacing the oil, however the forks seem to rake out and sit fully extended. If I compress them, they bounce back and clang - maybe someone’s installed some heavier springs at some point, but is there anything else I should look out for? How far above the top clamp should the tubes extend? Any pointers would be amazing!

Hopefully I’ve managed to upload photos correctly…

Cheers,

Ed

 

[Vinskord]

The link below will provide access to owners, parts, and service manuals. To help focus providing correct info, what are the first 2 letters on the frame number and the first 4 numbers on the engine number?

http://www.3medesign.com/technical-data.html

 

[Edward Rennie]

Thank you so much! Lots of reading material there by the look of it!

The frame starts MM and the engine starts 2066.

Many thanks,

Ed

 

[Vinskord]

How far above the top clamp should the tubes extend?

Here is a pic from an owners manual explaining the fork tube positioning. The concept is correct, but a bit of a discrepancy on the max distance between the pic and the narrative. The important part is not to let the front wheel hit the front mudguard when the forks are fully compressed.

 

[Edward Rennie]

Hi Vinskord, thank you again! I found these pages after you posted the link to the tech data and I will follow your suggestion for bottoming the forks (without the springs in?) and adjust so the wheel doesnt hit the mud guard.

just checking - are the forks meant to have 2 springs in each leg? a shorter one at the top and a longer one below? i see in the manuals there is talk of measuring the total length of the spring, but it looks like there is only a single spring (unless the photo isn't showing too clearly). My forks have a shorter spring which came out quite a bit, and took some force to get back in when i took the fork top cap off!

i have ordered new top out washers which i hope might resolve the bang / clunk - found an old thread where this is mentioned. On the same thread it talks about cutting an inch off the top spring to reduce pre-load - is this still a recommended mod?!

thank you again for your input!

 

[motomwo]

Yes there are two springs in each fork leg. You want to remove the springs to fully compress the forks to adjust the for distance of the for out of the top triple clamp. Also while doing this loosen the axle pinch bolts and axle. Once the fork height is set and the forks are still fully compressed then tight the axle clamping pinch bolts and the axle nut and then the rest of the triple clamp bolts. This will ensure the forks do not bind when they fully bottom out.
Do not cut the springs or modify them until you have had a chance to ride the bike. Then make adjustments with oil weight and spring mods.

Marty

 

[Action Jonny]

Hi guys, I’ve just joined the forum - what a great community! Some beautiful bikes on here. I’ve just bought my first Husky, as above a 1979 250 OR. I’ll be racing it in Vinduro events here in the UK - first outing in a few weeks . Anyone else here racing at Doddington?!

I’ve had a scan through the tech library, but don’t see any links for a manual for this year - would anyone be kind enough to point me in the right direction?!

Other than typical / routine checks and replacing oils, filters, spark plug etc etc my main issue with the bike as it is, is the front forks. I’ve ordered a new set of top out washers and seals and will fit them together with replacing the oil, however the forks seem to rake out and sit fully extended. If I compress them, they bounce back and clang - maybe someone’s installed some heavier springs at some point, but is there anything else I should look out for? How far above the top clamp should the tubes extend? Any pointers would be amazing!

Hopefully I’ve managed to upload photos correctly…

Cheers,

Ed

Yes, I'll be there

 

[Edward Rennie]

Yes there are two springs in each fork leg. You want to remove the springs to fully compress the forks to adjust the for distance of the for out of the top triple clamp. Also while doing this loosen the axle pinch bolts and axle. Once the fork height is set and the forks are still fully compressed then tight the axle clamping pinch bolts and the axle nut and then the rest of the triple clamp bolts. This will ensure the forks do not bind when they fully bottom out.
Do not cut the springs or modify them until you have had a chance to ride the bike. Then make adjustments with oil weight and spring mods.

Marty

Thanks very much Marty, that’s sensible advice. Apologies for the slow response been out of action for a while - life getting in the way of bike, bad form I know

 

[Edward Rennie]

Yes, I'll be there

Nice one! Spotted a 250XC in the program, hopefully see you there, getting forks back in today…

 

[Edward Rennie]

Good to meet you on the weekend Action Jonny! Hopefully see you at Fowberry, cant make the next event unfortunately

 

[Edward Rennie]

Thanks very much Marty, that’s sensible advice. Apologies for the slow response been out of action for a while - life getting in the way of bike, bad form I know

Hi Motomwo, thanks again for your advice.

having raced last weekend, i found the action of the forks OK, but the front end feels vague on slow technical corners and also there is pretty much no static sag - i still think there is too much weight over the back. i did jack up the back shocks a bit and raised the forks as much as i could through the top clamp (30mm / to the wheel close to the front fender) which helps a little but still not right. Maybe time to chop the top spring down? if i do this, i assume I only should cut down enough so that the preload spring still has some contact with the cap / top nut on the tubes? Any advice appreciated!

another random question if anyone can help - the end cap of the silencer fell off at some point! I did a trackside repair to hold in the inner pipe and packing, but need to find a new cap - anyone out there make these, or best to get someone to fabricate?! It is the original OEM silencer. Cheers!

Ed

 

[Vinskord]

Maybe time to chop the top spring down? if i do this, i assume I only should cut down enough so that the preload spring still has some contact with the cap / top nut on the tubes? Any advice appreciated!

Many opinions on this topic. Marty's advise is sound - do as many other adjustments prior to cutting springs.

Depending how in depth one wants to pursue, take a look at this:

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Suspension2.html

Also, depending how much you wish to spend:

https://racetech.com/page/id/140

https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Husqvarna/250CR/1979

 

[Edward Rennie]

Many opinions on this topic. Marty's advise is sound - do as many other adjustments prior to cutting springs.

Depending how in depth one wants to pursue this, take a look at this:

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Suspension2.html

Also, depending how much you wish to spend:

https://racetech.com/page/id/140

https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Husqvarna/250CR/1979

thats a brilliant piece of technical advice in the calsci page - thank you very much for directing me to that! shall run through the schedule and see where i get to.

Thanks Vinskord!

 

[motomwo]

Hi Ed,
Yes if you cut the top springs down you want the spring to still have contact with the cap. If you have to cut so much that there is a gap between the top of the spring then you will need a spacer between the top of the spring and cap. Also riding style/position on the seat has a lot to do with how a bike feels in slow technical corners. On my 1980 390 OR I have to be up almost on the tank to make the front end steering and not wash out. It is just a Husky thing. You can make changes to improve this. Also those long 35mm forks cause some of that vague or hunting feeling. Going to 40mm forks helps make the front end feel more positive. I would keep experimenting with the springs and fork oil. You didn't say what fork oil you were using or what the temperatures/weather was and track condition. Also make sure to keep the air blead out of the forks.

Marty

 

[Action Jonny]

Good to meet you on the weekend Action Jonny! Hopefully see you at Fowberry, cant make the next event unfortunately

Thanks, it was nice to meet you too, unfortunately the times were quite tight so it didn't make for a relaxing chat!

With regard to your forks, I only have experience with the 40mm type, though the 35mm may be similar. It's taken me a long time to get mine right, I've found the only way was trial and error. I bought some race tech springs but found them too hard for my puny 80kilo body, so what I have done is gradually cut down the stock springs to a point where I'm happy with them. As Motomwo says, buy some plastic tubing and make spacers to take up the slack. I've ended up cutting between three and four inches off my springs and preloading them by about 4mm. Put a cable tie on one fork leg so you can see exactly how much fork travel you're using. That said there is a definite technique to getting these bikes to corner but for me that learning process is part of the enjoyment.

 

[Edward Rennie]

Thanks, it was nice to meet you too, unfortunately the times were quite tight so it didn't make for a relaxing chat!

With regard to your forks, I only have experience with the 40mm type, though the 35mm may be similar. It's taken me a long time to get mine right, I've found the only way was trial and error. I bought some race tech springs but found them too hard for my puny 80kilo body, so what I have done is gradually cut down the stock springs to a point where I'm happy with them. As Motomwo says, buy some plastic tubing and make spacers to take up the slack. I've ended up cutting between three and four inches off my springs and preloading them by about 4mm. Put a cable tie on one fork leg so you can see exactly how much fork travel you're using. That said there is a definite technique to getting these bikes to corner but for me that learning process is part of the enjoyment.

Thanks AJ, I’ve not had any time yet to get round to the forks but looking forward to getting on to it!

 

[Edward Rennie]

A couple of other questions if anyone can assist…

What colour scheme should the petrol / gas tank be? When I look up 1979 250 OR images, I can only see the black tank - but is that only on the 390?

Also, could someone post a pic of who the chain guide / rollers should look like? Mine does a fair bit of rattling, albeit it is due a change!!

Cheers all

 

[Vinskord]

What colour scheme should the petrol / gas tank be?

Chain guide / rollers should look like?

Chain Guide (what does your current guide look like - pics?):

https://www.husqvarnavintage.com/Husqvarna_chain_guide/p792576_19412558.aspx

 

[Edward Rennie]

Chain Guide (what does your current guide look like - pics?):

https://www.husqvarnavintage.com/Husqvarna_chain_guide/p792576_19412558.aspx


and Colour:


View attachment 105927

brilliant! thanks for that Vinskord - i'm thinking in the winter i'll do a strip down and repaint the frame and get the tank done as well (it's currently green).

It looks from that image that my chain guide is correct but it's missing the roller tensioner in it's entirety. Seems HVA Factory here in UK has them

 

[motomwo]

The picture above of the 250 with red tank is a 1980 model. Your 79 did not have the roller tensioner like the 1980. But you can add it to the 79. Husky actually made an update kit to do just that.

Marty