Hi guys im a new member and Just bought a new wr250 from Heinens in MN. I line in KY and should recieve the bike in about a week, I have rode KTM 200 and 300 for the last 10 years. I wanted to try a Husqvarna and this will be my first one. I ride eastern single track and fire roads mostly. Any suggestions about setting up the WR?
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
250-500cc New WR250
- Thread starter wxc300
- Start date
lankydoug
Husqvarna
Pro Class
What year is it? If it has the 50mm Zokes make sure as soon as you break in the forks on your 1st oil change clean the hard assembly grease from around the valving.
Trim the plastic ribs off the mud guard so it doesn't sear your swingarm.
The stock front tire is not to bad but the rear is terrible.
Put a dab of dielectric grease on the spark plug boot and you will not have moisture or grounding issues that some complain about (usually blaming the boot). + it makes it easy to remove when checking the plug during jetting process.
Re-grease suspension linkage with waterproof grease to replace the white lithium grease the the factory uses. (I use the bluish green marine grease)
Trim the plastic ribs off the mud guard so it doesn't sear your swingarm.
The stock front tire is not to bad but the rear is terrible.
Put a dab of dielectric grease on the spark plug boot and you will not have moisture or grounding issues that some complain about (usually blaming the boot). + it makes it easy to remove when checking the plug during jetting process.
Re-grease suspension linkage with waterproof grease to replace the white lithium grease the the factory uses. (I use the bluish green marine grease)
shawbagga
Husqvarna
Pro Class
all what lankydoug said(especially the shock protector 'ribs'-crap idea mine nearly wore a hole in me swingarm & rear tyre is poo) and swingarm/headset bearings. blue loctite kickstart, engine mounts, subframe, shifter(again poo) & rear sprocket bolts too! constantly check tightness of these especially main swingarm thru bolt(the big one thru the cases-should be FT!). i found a 14T front sprocket(48T rear) worked better than 13/48 for me-bit more top speed for transport sections & widens gearbox a bit, 3rd gear gets a workout. cheapa to change than rear sprocket too. suspension, protection then go smash that thing til ya run outa juice!
PowerKord
Husqvarna
AA Class
Thanks for the tip about the trimming the mudflap. I just checked mine. I've got two big notches in the swingarm!
Fat Tire Flyer
Husqvarna
AA Class
Three more areas that will form wear marks (from seat).. See areas marked with " X X X "
shawbagga
Husqvarna
Pro Class
poxy idea eh!
Acmesalute76
Husqvarna
B Class
My '10 wr250 needed very little. I had Drew Smith do the suspension because it does not work well in rocks and roots in New England. I put on a skidplate and handguards. I set the jetting to "racing use only" spec in the manual (40 pilot, 430 main, 4.0 slide, GAY needle on middle clip). I switched to full synthetic oil in the gearbox because with conventional I had enough clutch drag it would stall in tight sections.
Just did the top end and it looks sweet after 90 hrs. Still good crosshatching on the cylinder. Scraped off the little bit of carbon on the powervalve and should be good to go.
My bearings came well greased from the factory but it's nice to have the zerks on the linkage. No excuse not to grease them. Yes, the back tire sucks.
Just did the top end and it looks sweet after 90 hrs. Still good crosshatching on the cylinder. Scraped off the little bit of carbon on the powervalve and should be good to go.
My bearings came well greased from the factory but it's nice to have the zerks on the linkage. No excuse not to grease them. Yes, the back tire sucks.
jimmyc
Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm 170 , with a 09 , I set the suspension soft, rejetted, and went the other way - 12T front sprocket. we run a lot of tight single track, muddy and slick , also tires suck , perilli MT16 for rear . skid plate bark busters , and goin with a FMF gnarly W| protector , I've bashed up my stock pipe pretty good this year...
Steve Kanya
Husqvarna
AA Class
WER did my fork on my 09, added a Rekluse Pro, and a Dunlop trials tire. Cheater bike and the best woods bike I've set up. At 58 yrs. old I've had quite a few, maybe 50 bikes at least. Jet it correctly and you will have more low end than you will ever believe. Super easy bike to win on.
Hi Guys Ive went throught the bike and used locktight on the fastners. It came on a truck last Friday, jetting is way off it wont idle. I havent recieved the paperwork for the bike and am wondering if extra jets will come with it. What jetting are you guys using here in Ky? Should I just buy the Keihin and install it.
stretchrcr
Husqvarna
AA Class
I have the same bike and I love it. All good information listed here. The only thing I would double check is jetting. Some of the 11's were shipped with a very lean jetting spec. For those affected, a bulletin was sent to dealers and and then a jet kit that includes several jets and a different slide. For the 250 the part number of this free kit is 8000H1011. Here's what the bulletin recommends: 430 Main, 40 pilot, 6BFY43-74 needle, 4.0 slide, 80 Starter air jet (choke), and air screw 1.5 turns out. If you have this or something pretty close (dealer may have made some adjustments for your area) you're probably ready to go. If it's not, call your dealer and get the kit before you ride it. It could be very lean. I've made some slight adjustments to this spec and it runs great in So Cal. Enjoy.
Thanks for the information,my bike had a 17.5 pilot in it so im assuming I have the lean jetting, I have called the dealer and im waiting on a response from them. I drilled out a extra pilot jet I had to .6mm and the air screw is turned out one turn and the bike idles and accepts full throttle good without hestitation. Im hoping the dealer will go ahead and send me the jet kit without any problems.
windsurf
Husqvarna
AA Class
You shouldn't ever attempt to 'make' your own pilot jet as you have no idea how this relates to correct size jets. They come manufactured with very tight tolerances and minimal changes to the hole dia make vast differences to how the bike will run.
Hopefully you have drilled something that will make it rich rather than undersize and seizing your motor! If you haven't already run the bike throw your drilled jet in the bin and get the correct part. Jets are very cheap even if your dealer doesn't send you them FOC.
Hopefully you have drilled something that will make it rich rather than undersize and seizing your motor! If you haven't already run the bike throw your drilled jet in the bin and get the correct part. Jets are very cheap even if your dealer doesn't send you them FOC.