New To Me Te250 2010 Low Hrs Questions

[Cyclic]

So I picked up a low hour was never off road, still has original tires on it. just installed the power up kit and ran a fresh tank of 94 chevron through it. I have a fuel pump on order from here

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-2389...er-for-husqvarna-fe-450-fs-450-2014-2018.html

My bike would not restart after I shut it off, it would not restart , turned on key but fuel pump would not prime. It started up later when it cooled down. *Update new fuel pump fixed this*

 

[Trenchcoat85]

yeah, pull the pump cover, and take a look. The impellers sometimes will lose the nut holding them on to the shaft.

why are you putting a new fuel pump in? what do you mean when you say your "bike died... when I shut it off"?

a very clean looking bike.

 

[Cyclic]

yeah, pull the pump cover, and take a look. The impellers sometimes will lose the nut holding them on to the shaft.

why are you putting a new fuel pump in? what do you mean when you say your "bike died... when I shut it off"?

a very clean looking bike.

I went for a ride, bike heated up from trail ride. Shut the bike off to suck in the view , turned it back on, fuel pump did not prime therefore bike would not start, coasted it down the mountain called for the wife to pick me up, when she arrived turned the bike on and it primed and started. It appears that is well documented as a pump failure.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

I went for a ride, bike heated up from trail ride. Shut the bike off to suck in the view , turned it back on, fuel pump did not prime therefore bike would not start, coasted it down the mountain called for the wife to pick me up, when she arrived turned the bike on and it primed and started. It appears that is well documented as a pump failure.

Possibly.

but you can't be sure unless you test. of course, putting a new pump in is sorta a test, I guess. It is very well documented that people replace their working pumps without a simple pressure test- or even taking a fuel line off to check flow.

check the valves maybe if you hear noise in the upper end, or the bike is hard to start. they're probably okay.

good luck.

 

[Cyclic]

Possibly.

but you can't be sure unless you test. of course, putting a new pump in is sorta a test, I guess. It is very well documented that people replace their working pumps without a simple pressure test- or even taking a fuel line off to check flow.

check the valves maybe if you hear noise in the upper end, or the bike is hard to start. they're probably okay.

good luck.

Yup good point points TC, i figured because the owner admitted to letting the bike sit around that the fuel pump and filter were going to be something that should be serviced. Will keep this thread apprised of the install which will happen this week.

 

[Cyclic]

I pulled off the head and checked my valve clearances tonight.
Intake is spec'd as .10-.15mm
Exhaust is spec'd as .20-.25mm
What I found on Intake was almost a match 0.13 on the left and 0.12 on the right.
Exhaust I am pushing the boundary coming in around .18-19 both sides slightly tight but not enough to shim it IMO.
Everything else looks okay can see the bearings are in tact and there is a tad bit if wear on the teeth that drive the water pump, may be the noise i am hearing it may be working hard, will keep it it monitored and check in another 10 hrs.
Spark plug looked decent also a touch wet but color was good

 

[Trenchcoat85]

yeah, you're okay there. Although, for a FI bike, that plug looks rich.

I like my exhaust valves a bit tighter actually, but if you're not having trouble starting the bike, you're good.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Do you still have the 1-way valve on the gas tank vent? is it working correctly? (actually, it should pass air both ways- it's just that pressure relief should be like 1/4psi)

 

[Cyclic]

Do you still have the 1-way valve on the gas tank vent? is it working correctly? (actually, it should pass air both ways- it's just that pressure relief should be like 1/4psi)

i just removed that valve, haven't ridden it yet, i also just dropped a 6mm screw into intake vacuum due to power up kit install, haven't ridden it yet, this weekend.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

i just removed that valve, haven't ridden it yet, i also just dropped a 6mm screw into intake vacuum due to power up kit install, haven't ridden it yet, this weekend.

the valve *might* have been your problem (but probably not). blow through it and then suck through it to see that it works. gently.

6mm screw? are you blocking the vacuum port or did mean something else? that's a fat screw for a tiny port; i use vinyl caps.

Does your bike have a restricted airfilter cage or is it like the TC's? Trying to get ideas why that plug might be rich.

 

[R_Little]

I pulled off the head and checked my valve clearances tonight.
Intake is spec'd as .10-.15mm
Exhaust is spec'd as .20-.25mm
What I found on Intake was almost a match 0.13 on the left and 0.12 on the right.
Exhaust I am pushing the boundary coming in around .18-19 both sides slightly tight but not enough to shim it IMO.
Everything else looks okay can see the bearings are in tact and there is a tad bit if wear on the teeth that drive the water pump, may be the noise i am hearing it may be working hard, will keep it it monitored and check in another 10 hrs.
Spark plug looked decent also a touch wet but color was good

I have the same bike with a lot of miles on it.
You want the exhaust valve a little tight on the left side by the de-compressor.
If the pump is not starting when it heats up replace it. My bike had the same issue early on.
I got one from California cycle works. Note the intake and output flanges are different sizes and take different hoses on the stock pump. Might be the same on the aftermarket pulp.

Yes, that plug looks a little rich but if it runs okay don't worry about it.

 

[glangston]

Nephew replaced his '12 fuel pump after similar symptoms. Think he got one from a Harley shop...as I recall they were simlar specs.

 

[Cyclic]

the valve *might* have been your problem (but probably not). blow through it and then suck through it to see that it works. gently.

6mm screw? are you blocking the vacuum port or did mean something else? that's a fat screw for a tiny port; i use vinyl caps.

Does your bike have a restricted airfilter cage or is it like the TC's? Trying to get ideas why that plug might be rich.

The bike has a unrestricted air cage yes, it was the only power up item installed when I got it home.
It might not be 6mm it is the exact same thread though, and yes i just unscrewed the bronze fitting then screwed that in its replacement on the vacuum port.
The plug may be a touch rich due to the fact i have just uncorked this thing and only put about 5 miles on it, the plug should clear up, we have some nice sunny days here, fuel pump arrived today i'll get her in and ride it a bit.
The gas tank line can move air both ways now. Thanks for all the responses, I'll see now if the motor runs a touch better and will keep an ear on that water pump noise.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Uncorking it usually makes it leaner- that's what the ecu remap is compensating for. also, could you (in the past) replicate the problem or was this a one-time thing? You may have fixed things with the vent.

It's hard to tell from your photo, but you may have the older style coolant temp sensor in there. When it goes flaky (often) the motor will do all kinds of weird things. If you continue to have problems, consider replacing it ($20). There is no real good test for the CTS.

 

[Cyclic]

Uncorking it usually makes it leaner- that's what the ecu remap is compensating for. also, could you (in the past) replicate the problem or was this a one-time thing? You may have fixed things with the vent.

It's hard to tell from your photo, but you may have the older style coolant temp sensor in there. When it goes flaky (often) the motor will do all kinds of weird things. If you continue to have problems, consider replacing it ($20). There is no real good test for the CTS.

I just got this a couple weeks ago I have had one ride on it fuel pump failed, I jumped the gun to replace it. Hoping from the dozens of threads I have read its the culprit for not starting when hot, I also had a low amount of fuel in the tank which compounds the heat issue.

To low of hours riding it to know, have a cpl long rides planned this weekend. I have also not done any ECU remapping that is coming as a friend has iBeat

 

[R_Little]

You are going to need that I-beat.

The 2010's were not quite sorted out, but I can tell you once adjusted correctly they run fine. Try around 103 108 105 CO with the spark arrestor in and the quiet thingy out of the pipe.

I put a lot of work into mine when it was new but for the last 7 years it has run perfect and handles awesome.
I is the only bike I ever owned that I did not have to get the suspension re-valved.
Just a heavier spring on the shock and a switch to Kayaba 01 oil in the forks.

 

[Cyclic]

Well fuel pump is in and it runs good, yes that stumble down low will have to get fixed asap, hopefully this weekend i'll get it hooked up to iBeat. I wish I could put the air filter restrictor in if i had it, think that would clean up that lean issue down low. New Michelin starcross and Metzeler unicross going on tomorrow

 

[Cyclic]

Dang took out in the single track gnarlyness of British Columbia, runs great when you are at speed but slow technical stuff i get the bog, makes it very hard to handle and on the clutch a lot. I ordered the Kawasaki 12 injector and will try iBeat before ordering the Power Commander

 

[R_Little]

I would try to adjust the CO's and set the TPS before you put in the 12 pt injector.

The stock ECU is not set up for a 12pt injector and you will have no baseline for tuning.

Set the TPS to 102.3% at full throttle and adjust the COs as I mentioned above with the SA in the pipe.
See how it runs then.

FYI, I have a 12pt injector and ECU in a box and still have the stock 4 pt in mine because it runs perfect...especially in low traction situations.

 

[Cyclic]

I would try to adjust the CO's and set the TPS before you put in the 12 pt injector.

The stock ECU is not set up for a 12pt injector and you will have no baseline for tuning.

Set the TPS to 102.3% at full throttle and adjust the COs as I mentioned above with the SA in the pipe.
See how it runs then.

FYI, I have a 12pt injector and ECU in a box and still have the stock 4 pt in mine because it runs perfect...especially in low traction situations.

Thanks, I made these adjustments and rode it for a short road distance, seems better, however i won't know until tomorrow when I get it out on the trail. If you want to sell your TCX ECU i'll take it.