• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New To Me Hva 250cr 1980

Dane1987

Dane1987

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi there!

Im picking up a 250CR on Thursday, where's can I read more about these models and find a site for spares? (EU only)
 
Is it just me, or does the stance seem a bit off?​
 

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I bet you'll find that it sits properly with a good rebuild of the Ohlins. Also, cut the front forks springs and refinish the ends so that they install with 3-5mm of preload. I bet you'll find that the stockers are a good inch too long. They had tons of preload, which worsened the stance and the "top out" problem that these forks are famous for (when the plastic damper ring fails). If you swap the front to the 40mm fork (great upgrade) do the same to the springs.

80 is a great looking model. The longest travel Husky with the square tank.
 
Picklito said:
I bet you'll find that it sits properly with a good rebuild of the Ohlins. Also, cut the front forks springs and refinish the ends so that they install with 3-5mm of preload. I bet you'll find that the stockers are a good inch too long. They had tons of preload, which worsened the stance and the "top out" problem that these forks are famous for (when the plastic damper ring fails). If you swap the front to the 40mm fork (great upgrade) do the same to the springs.

80 is a great looking model. The longest travel Husky with the square tank.
Click to expand...

Does those specifications also apply, when I am only 73kg?

What should the eye-eye length be on CR units?
 
Dane1987 said:
Is it just me, or does the stance seem a bit off?​
Click to expand...

The forks look even longer than the last 35mm CR forks(12" travel). And I'll bet they are wiggly. I would say someone got a good deal on the wrong length of replacement fork tube.I have seen 35mm fork tubes from Mike's XS that ranged from 24" up to 30" for raked out front ends on XS650s.
 
Can't really tell from your swingarm photo, but the shock location looks stock on your whole bike photos. The shocks run almost parallel to the rear frame tube. Here's a CR pic from Husqvarna Outlet:


1980_250CR.jpg
 
Interesting. I see it now: Your bottom shock bolt is behind the rear swingarm bolt, whereas the pic I uploaded it is slightly in front.
 
27540095_10212805754153438_8523449316084712736_n.jpg
 
There is something up with my front forks, they don't feel right, I'm however unable to describe how they feel.
 
husky forks operation is a black art. 1. the fork front wheel assembly is such that the lower fork tubes can be"pinched in by tightening the axle nut "wrong". you can measure the separation of the lower sliders at the fork seals and just above the pinch bolts to make sure they are parallel. the pinch bolts and axle nut can be loosened and the the forks pushed up and down to a point the front wheel is nearly lifting off on rebound and this can allow the paralleling of the lower sliders before tightening the sleeve. 2 the fork damper rods can be tightened incorrectly on reassembly. before tightening the damper rod retaining allen bolt, the springs must be removed and the tube slid to fully compressed to centre the damper rod in the tubes other wise the tube shaves the damper cones every time the fork bottoms. 3. the "top out" washer is a fragile pernickity prick of a part that quickly goes out of shape and the forks bang and clunk when accelerating. replace on every fork service. the first issue will give a stiff unforgiving awkward steering feeling. the forks should be plush and soft on the first 1"or more of travel. good luck!
 
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