• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New to me 2006 TE450

Ben Verkler

Ben Verkler

Husqvarna
A Class
Just picked up a 2006 TE450 with only 420 miles on it. The bike is pretty damn clean and well stored. I am in the process of replacing the intake manifold and air box boot, both have large cracks in them from sitting. Any suggestions for removing the carb, it is a tight fit and I am having trouble getting it out.
 
Just keep working it gently. I would spray WD40 around the base and let it sit. I had an 06 450 and loved it. mechanically bullet proof, heaps of grunt good brakes and suspension. Keep the oil and air filter changes coming and all will be good.
I change the oil after 3 -5 rides and the oil and oil filter every second change. Airfilter is cleaned when necessary this can be after one or several rides depending on the conditions you rode in.
I found an Iridium spark plug helped starting on cold mornings. I always put in several cap fulls of 2 stroke oil into the fuel with every new tank of gas. This helps cushion the valves, lube the top ring and a bonus is that it helps stabilise your fuel.
Be a good idea to pull off your rear suspension and re grease the swing arm and linkage and also the steering stem head bearings. Factory greasing was minimal, also your bike has been sitting for a while. Be a good idea to bleed the brakes and clutch and change the fork oil too. Finally give your throttle cables a lube.

Good luck on the new beast Ben-enjoy.
 
Ben Verkler said:
Just picked up a 2006 TE450 with only 420 miles on it. The bike is pretty damn clean and well stored. I am in the process of replacing the intake manifold and air box boot, both have large cracks in them from sitting. Any suggestions for removing the carb, it is a tight fit and I am having trouble getting it out.
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Remove seat and muffler, bottom bolts of the rear subframe, pull the subframe up to disconnect the airbox from the carb, should be able to pull the carb from the manifold boot. If not, cut the boot with a utility knife and peel it off. :cheers:
 
Thanks for the tips guys. Ended up pulling the subframe, need to replace the air box boot. Just waiting on parts now. Installed some fastway pegs in the lowboy position, can't wait to try them out. I am 6'4" so I need all the help I can get.
 
Maybe you will need some bar risers as well. I am only 6 foot and had 3/4" risers, maybe consider 1 inch risers-not expensive and reallyhelp when on the pegs.
 
Got her buttoned back up today, still waiting for a new air filter but she runs good. Put some renthal RC High bars on while I was at it which seem to be a good fit. I still need to flush radiator, brakes, clutch and start researching a rear tire but I just want to ride at this point.
 
I found this in a box of parts that came with the bike. I am assuming this is a filter for the vent tubes but not sure on installation.IMG_20160823_100536444.jpg
 
Yep Uptite filter, mine had it and I removed it. It supposedly helps in very dusty conditions (desert).

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Vent filter: I'd keep it on if you don't have a good reason to remove it. Carb vents are a source of particulates in the bowl; gas cap vents too.
 
I am having trouble with the rear brake lever being to high. I adjusted it as low as I could but the new pegs in the lowboy position make the lever to high. Standing isn't bad but sitting with my size 15 boot is hard to cover the rear brake without lifting my foot. Any suggestions
 
Ben Verkler said:
I am having trouble with the rear brake lever being to high. I adjusted it as low as I could but the new pegs in the lowboy position make the lever to high. Standing isn't bad but sitting with my size 15 boot is hard to cover the rear brake without lifting my foot. Any suggestions
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well, if you have enough adjustment left in your pushrod, ZipTy's brake stop might fit: http://www.ziptyracing.com/brake-stop-husqvarna-2nd-edition/

but you could also use angle iron to make a new pedal tip or new lower mount for your existing pedal tip. or cut a small kerf on the inside of the arm and bend it; then re-weld. or make your own (eccentric or straight) pedal stop. or lengthen your brake pedal arm

might hafta make a new shorter push rod for any or all these mods.
 
I decided to make a larger adjustment cam for the break lever and it works well. Cut a piece of 1" bar stock down to just over .25" and drilled it accordingly. There was enough adjustment in the push rod and I am now able to cover the rear brake easily!IMG_20160830_073440513.jpg
 
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