New to me '01 te 570

[ghettopenny]

Yep, all three were the same width. Sprocket side bearings had a shoulder. Installed those first then the big spacer inside then the rotor side bearing just far enough to clear the circlip. Just like Rancher1 said. But without the extra washers, the brake rotor touches the caliper. I'm on vacation now but when I get home, I'll check and see if the spacers are different sizes. Maybe the previous owner reversed them by mistake? I didn't think to check that.

 

[ghettopenny]

I think the te570 and wr360 from 2001 share the same rear wheel but the parts diagram for the 2001 wr360 shows a 16mm bearing on the rotor side. Hard to believe that's a misprint but it would solve my problem. I'm going to order one and see if it fixes this.

 

[DaveM]

I put in the disc side bearing number 8B0026846 in the Halls Motorcycles web site and it comes up

with a bearing,

25 x 47 x 16,

http://www.halls-cycles.com/check-out-our--xstore

The 2001 parts list has the wrong description!

Cheers, Dave.

 

[DaveM]

The sprocket side bearings in the parts list are both the same part number, 8A0026846.

25 x 47 x 12, from Halls, 6005-2ngk.

This site comes up with 6005-2ngk which is a genuine Husqvarna Bearing,

http://www.gileraspares.co.uk/product/HUSQVARNA/HV8A0026846/-BEARING, RADIAL BALL 6005-2NGK-&uid=0

So a replacement bearing would be 6005 2RS.

Cheers, Dave.

 

[ghettopenny]

Sprocket side has a shoulder. Rotor side doesnt. But it won't much matter once the rotor side bearing is 4mm bigger. It will bottom out against the big spacer and it will push the rotor side spacer out enough for the rotor to center in the caliper.

 

[ghettopenny]

Replacement for the 16mm bearing is 63005-2RS

 

[ghettopenny]

Called the seller, Jawzy's, this morning. They're contacting All Balls to correct the product fitment and get the right bearing out to me.

 

[DaveM]

Great, thank you, I have updated my parts list with the number.

Cheers, Dave.

 

[ghettopenny]

Boy oh boy. The hits just keep coming. The decompression cable was loose because the lever and spring that mount onto the valve cover were simply missing. Hope I can get those in time to ride next week. =(

 

[ryboj]

Damn I love those 570's. Just a rawness to those, but still in a nice package, with excellent stability and sheer power. Hope you enjoy!

 

[ghettopenny]

I hope so too. Planning on taking it to Hatfield McCoy next week. Hall's had everything I needed (including a used decompression lever for the rocker cover) so it looks like it will be good to go. Put two new tires on it last night and installed the 16mm wheel bearing that arrived.Valves are adjusted. Carb is clean.

While I was in the carb I discovered my starting problem. The choke was completely nonfunctional. The cable head would fall out of its holder in the choke lever tube on the right side of the bike. There's probably supposed to be some type of retainer in there but I fixed with a safety wire type solution. So hopefully (fingers crossed) it will start easier once I get things buttoned back up.

 

[ghettopenny]

2 things:

For you west coasters. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcy/4973947794.html

2nd. Can any one share some photos of their stock sidestand? I have a stock sidestand, springs and plate but can't seem to get it to operate properly. Something must be bent or I am just doing something wrong. The springs bind against the stand when I move it up or down. I'm thinking maybe the sidestand that came with my bike may have been bent since it was not installed and came in a box of parts. Mine has a slight bow toward the top. Can't find any good photos with a Google search.

Thanks in advance.

Chris

 

[rancher1]

The plate hooks to the small post on the frame with the small curved side facing forward. The 2 springs hook to the plate and the side stand, one inside of the other. Most of the time on huskys one end of the springs is facing the same direction and the other end are opposites, but I am not sure about your model. I hope this helps.

 

[DaveM]

Stand pics,

 

[DaveM]

More,

 

[ghettopenny]

Thank you very much. It seems there is supposed to be a little bend in the stand near the top. I think I need to try and mount it again but flip my springs. That might have been my mistake. I'll report back. I'm leaving Wednesday for my riding trip. Tuesday morning is ear marked for fine tuning things. Crossing my fingers.

Chris

 

[ghettopenny]

I had a great time on the bike the past few days at Hatfield McCoy. The power of these bikes just puts a smile on your face. Still have a few things to fix up bit now I can take my time. Thanks to everyone for their help and good info. Especially George for answering my last minute questions by phone.

Chris

 

[ghettopenny]

Ok. So things are very sorted out on this bike now. Once it starts, it purrs, idles smooth and runs strong. Im having trouble with 2 things. Cold starting and hot starting after a stall. I would really appreciate some tips on this. I generally resort to roll starting but I really want to be able kick start it under any circumstance.

Thanks

Chris

 

[rancher1]

Hi Chris, I like to pull in the compression release and clear the motor with about half a dozen kicks whether the motor is hot or cold.

 

[Norman Foley]

I have a '93 WXC350 and had an '01 TE400 and as rancher1 says, pull in the manual comp release and kick through 6 times or so. I do this on a hot stall and bike starts right up.

I've never need to do it on a cold start though. I always found that the secret to starting a single cam, was get it just past TDC and kick it as slowly and deliberately as you can. I got my '93 a few years ago, with almost no time on it, because the previous 3 owners couldn't start it. Fired on the fourth kick and usually starts on the second now. Other thing.... I always drain the carb, when it's going to sit for more than a couple days.