• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New to me '01 te 570

G

ghettopenny

Husqvarna
AA Class
I just picked up this bike and I was hoping someone had a link perhaps to any manuals? Owners, service or even just parts? Anything I should know about these bikes thats unique to them. Im excited to get it going.IMG950816.jpg
 
Hi,

The Ducati ignition is known for problems.

The glue that bonds the magnet belt to the rotor/flywheel fails over time and allows the magnet belt to slip which puts

the timing out.

With the magneto the insulation on the copper wire fails over time.

There are companies that can re-bond the magnet belt and rewind the magneto with better quality wire.

This is the route I took but would not do the same again I could have bought a new magneto and flywheel cheaper than I

had mine repaired.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=g70&ACTION=Search&PR=-1&TB=A

Cheers, Dave.
 
Thanks Dave. Kinda reminds of a Husaberg FC501 I had. SEM stator was a problem on those. I'll give this one a good look over. The plastics on this bike are pretty tired. Seems the red/white/black stuff from newer bikes fits. What models can I get the newer plastic from to fit this machine?
 
Loads of plastics for that style and year for sale on eBay in the uk. And moto-style are the best for graphics
 
Thanks. I guess I'd better prioritize. Seems I need some more important bits first. Wheel bearings, spokes, tires, etc.

How do I start this bike cold? It's really tough. I'm going to adjust the valves but is there a certain procedure to starting these monsters?
 
Thanks Dave! I've ordered a buck of parts from Hall's to get this thing trail ready. Came with a 100/100 on the back so order a Maxxis rear in 140/100. Ordered 10 spokes and nipples and a rear bearing set to get the rear wheel sorted out. Ordered the kickstand plate, bolt and springs to reattach the kickstand which surprisingly it came with. Ordered oil and air filter. 2 more weeks and it should be ready to go. Any recommendations for a OEMish graphics kit?
 
That bike is meant to be blue & yellow! I wish I would have kept my 01 TE400 :mad: I always got good info from George at Uptite...
 
My te610 left kick starts well now after new plug new fuel set tappets and re built/set up carb and choke plunger. I put the choke on pull the de comp lever and kick it through a few times on full throttle to get a bit of fuel rich air in the cylinder. Then I let the de comp lever go push down on the kick start till it go's hard that's tdc. Then pull in the de comp lever a little move the piston just over tdc with the kick start lever. Then return the lever to its rest position and kick it over. 1st or second kick it fires
 
Hi,

I haven't searched for graphics for a while, I wanted something stock or close to stock, but has been hard to find.

You could try E-bay.

Since the 570 is such a big motor and fun to kick, if my bike has been sitting for more than a week or two I always drain

as much of the fuel from the tank as I can, I drain the carby as well and add fresh fuel, I use a hand kerosine pump,

really helps to make starting easier.

Cheers, Dave.
 
Hi,

2001 was the year they changed from early plastics/graphics to later plastics/graphics.

Yours is 2001 - 2004.

I see Halls has left and right fuel tank shroud decals.

8000 97921 $55.25

8000 97922 $55.25

Cheers, Dave.
 
Well, I just spent about three hours sorting out the back wheel. Replaced 10 spokes and nipples. Had to use vise grips and a battery powered impact driver to free all the other spokes from their respective nipples. Applied just a tiny dab of anti-seize to keep thing freely moving so I could tune the spokes. Once that was finished and the rim was really pretty true I went to work on the bearings and axle. Replaced all three bearings and both seals no problem but what is throwing me off are some extra parts. The parts diagram shows these items on the axle (starting from the rotor side) spacer, seal, circlip, bearing, big spacer, bearing, bearing, seal, spacer, nut. When I disassembled it initially, I found two very small washers between the spacer and bearing on the rotor side. I tried assembling things without the two tiny washers (per the parts diagram) and the brake rotor would rub on the brake caliper. So I reassembled it with the two tiny washers and problem solved.

What gives? Anyone encounter this sort of thing? And what is the purpose of the circlip? Why does the rotor side bearing have no tang to bottom out against? The sprocket side bearings do. How far should it be driven in?

Thanks

Chris
 
I have not seen a husky hub without a shoulder on the inside of the hub for seating the bearing and I have seen a lot of husky hubs. I would say drive it in until the snap ring groove is clear. I would put the sprocket side bearings in first then install the middle spacer and then the bearing should be driven in just to make sure the spacing is ok. I would guess maybe the previous owner couldn't find the correct wide bearing for the brake side and went with the regular size bearing like the sprocket side and added the washers to make up the difference ?
 
Looking at the parts list all 3 bearings are 12mm wide.

Interestingly they have different parts numbers but same dimensions.

Cheers, Dave.
 
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