New TE310, how to unplug it

[MZee]

Hi,
I recently bought a new '14 TE310R. A sweet bike, but it feels restricted in mid & upper RPMs. Also, when rolling along at low RPM on level ground, it runs erratically. I cant tell if it is too rich or lean. It is an EPA approved street legal US model. What can be done to let it run better? I have heard that there is a restrictor in the air filter, as well as a restrictive catalyst in the exhaust. It looks like I will have to drill out the silencer rivets to get at the catalyst, then re-rivet it. Has anyone seen much benefit from removing these restrictions?

I am open to suggestions on the injection & ignition control (mapping?) I know too little about what is available and what would work well on a dualsport bike, ridden on pavement to get to good dirt riding areas. So I dont want it to be like a jumpy race bike, but want a good smooth buildup of power thru the RPM range.

Thanks

 

[Sheller]

There are a few threads that mention what needs to be done for these bikes to run right.

I have the same bike and this is what I've done:
Full power map
Replaced restricted velocity stack and air filter cage with the TXC versions
Pulled exhaust apart where it is held together with springs. The restriction is right there.

Husky made this bike very easy to derestrict.

 

[Nick from HB]

I posted here because MZee's post sounds a little similar to my issue.

First, thank you in advance for the help I am sure to receive here. I have a 2013 TE310R that feels like it hits a rev limiter at about 2/3 throttle. It doesn't have enough power to pull the front wheel up in first gear with throttle only. It feels like right when the good power is about to hit, the rev limiter kicks in. That's the best way I can describe it. I have read that there are two maps in the ECU, could this be my bike stuck in the mud map? Or does it need what Sheller describes?


Now the bike. I bought it used and regret it. I think it might be a theft recovery. The dash, tail light, turn signals, horn, basically the street legal stuff is all gone. The prior owner said he only rode it in the dirt so he did not want the street legal items on it. After I bought it, I noticed that the wire harness had been cut to remove these items, thus leading me to believe it was previously stolen and stripped. I post this info because I thought the dash not being in the bike could lead to ECU issues. Thanks everyone!

 

[Johnrg]

Hi,
I recently bought a new '14 TE310R. A sweet bike, but it feels restricted in mid & upper RPMs. Also, when rolling along at low RPM on level ground, it runs erratically. I cant tell if it is too rich or lean. It is an EPA approved street legal US model. What can be done to let it run better? I have heard that there is a restrictor in the air filter, as well as a restrictive catalyst in the exhaust. It looks like I will have to drill out the silencer rivets to get at the catalyst, then re-rivet it. Has anyone seen much benefit from removing these restrictions?

I am open to suggestions on the injection & ignition control (mapping?) I know too little about what is available and what would work well on a dualsport bike, ridden on pavement to get to good dirt riding areas. So I dont want it to be like a jumpy race bike, but want a good smooth buildup of power thru the RPM range.

Thanks

1) Replace air filter cage with the TCX version.
2) remove airbox screen and set aside. Pull red volocity stack and replace with tcx version or cut away restriction so a smooth internal surface to the tb. Replace screen.
3) Have ECU remapped to Map 3. Contact Bills, ZipTy or Halls on this.
4) Install a screw into the intake manifold to block off the hose nipple that would have been stock and leading to the charcoal cannister. Remove cannister if desired.
5) Remove cat if desired by removing tail pipe and cat is right in the front of that tail pipe. No need to hack the pipe otherwise for performance/noise reasons.
6) Buy a LI battery such as an EarthX (for more robust starting). Zip tie it to the fender through the weep holes.
7) Make sure your bike starts by the electric starter without clicking or jamming. It will be very hard to kick also. If it is problematic you need to adjust the valve shim that actuates the decompressor slightly tighter. Common with this year.
8) check tank spacing over the radiator hose and left side fuel petcock. Make sure the screws under the left side of tank do not rest on the hose. Same with petcock. If you have hex head screws and they are on the hose replace the specific screws with 3mm button head screws. I think just one. To gain clearance any hardware store has 1/2 in and roughly 3mm thick washers that you can add to the post under the front of the tank to space as needed. I use 3 and right side shroud just still fits the as stock. Space too much and bodywork may not fit so well.
9) Remove floppy black tail assembly if you still have it. It will flop itself to death so remove and put a plate sized backer over the plastic under the tail light and screw it/fasten to the fender. Remove signals from front and rear and use your hands.
10) Bonus if you want more exacting fueling is a Dynojet PCV. 2 maps available on this forum that are proven. You have to install though but spot on maps.

That's it. Extra items that are helpful are the ZipTy Oil return kit that negates the need to route the catch tank hose and oil to the underside of the sump, by routing it instead to the oil filler and plugging the rear sump outlet. ZipTy front axle puller. Change to a 50 tooth rear sprocket for best all around off road riding.

 

[Motorcycle Ron]

1) Replace air filter cage with the TCX version.
2) remove airbox screen and set aside. Pull red volocity stack and replace with tcx version or cut away restriction so a smooth internal surface to the tb. Replace screen.
3) Have ECU remapped to Map 3. Contact Bills, ZipTy or Halls on this.
4) Install a screw into the intake manifold to block off the hose nipple that would have been stock and leading to the charcoal cannister. Remove cannister if desired.
5) Remove cat if desired by removing tail pipe and cat is right in the front of that tail pipe. No need to hack the pipe otherwise for performance/noise reasons.
6) Buy a LI battery such as an EarthX (for more robust starting). Zip tie it to the fender through the weep holes.
7) Make sure your bike starts by the electric starter without clicking or jamming. It will be very hard to kick also. If it is problematic you need to adjust the valve shim that actuates the decompressor slightly tighter. Common with this year.
8) check tank spacing over the radiator hose and left side fuel petcock. Make sure the screws under the left side of tank do not rest on the hose. Same with petcock. If you have hex head screws and they are on the hose replace the specific screws with 3mm button head screws. I think just one. To gain clearance any hardware store has 1/2 in and roughly 3mm thick washers that you can add to the post under the front of the tank to space as needed. I use 3 and right side shroud just still fits the as stock. Space too much and bodywork may not fit so well.
9) Remove floppy black tail assembly if you still have it. It will flop itself to death so remove and put a plate sized backer over the plastic under the tail light and screw it/fasten to the fender. Remove signals from front and rear and use your hands.
10) Bonus if you want more exacting fueling is a Dynojet PCV. 2 maps available on this forum that are proven. You have to install though but spot on maps.

That's it. Extra items that are helpful are the ZipTy Oil return kit that negates the need to route the catch tank hose and oil to the underside of the sump, by routing it instead to the oil filler and plugging the rear sump outlet. ZipTy front axle puller. Change to a 50 tooth rear sprocket for best all around off road riding.

I found some turn signals for the front that are built-in to the hand guards and rear that are encased in aluminum that i like. I really enjoy my 310R for dualsport. Its so fun to have a street legal race bike.

 

[Dangermouse449]

The Zipty oil catch can, and Map 3 mentioned above are related to the TE449 & 511.
The 310 is a completely different engine.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

The Zipty oil catch can, and Map 3 mentioned above are related to the TE449 & 511.
The 310 is a completely different engine.

well yes, sorta... but the 310 (not 250) xlites crankcase ventilation return the condensed oil to the bottom of the sump. A lot of people think this is vulnerable (I do also, but it's not a super big concern- I'm still running stock plumbing at 6000miles). The ZTR setup returns the oil from the tank (aka frame) to the oil fill cap location.

 

[Matthew525]

Its just a vent to relieve crank case pressures.
The frame does not act as an oil tank, only vapors are exchanged in the frame. Only minor residue from the vapor ends up in the frame.


The large "volume under the piston" makes this necessary on the 310 but not on the 250 redhead motors which are nearly identical motors.

 

[rschneider]

Its just a vent to relieve crank case pressures.
The frame does not act as an oil tank, only vapors are exchanged in the frame. Only minor residue from the vapor ends up in the frame.


The large "volume under the piston" makes this necessary on the 310 but not on the 250 redhead motors which are nearly identical motors.

I wonder how much oil would actually be lost if the hose configuration was changed to the tc style. I have thought about doing that before to remove the return line and simplify the system.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

I wonder how much oil would actually be lost if the hose configuration was changed to the tc style. I have thought about doing that before to remove the return line and simplify the system.

I would guess very, very little (unless you had a ring problem). The vapor gets sucked into the clean side of the air filter; not much is condensing and running back down into the engine, it seems. I think the TE's have a fine screen on the liquid return... but I CRS lately. getting old sux.

One of the guys running the ZTR system could plug the return line for one ride; then measure the amount in the hose after the ride. Just for curiosity's sake.

I'm going to the TXC routing eventually- just so I can stick my EE skid plate on finally. (I've had 3 stock skids plates, btw- but they're only about $11-12 so I don't really mind)

 

[rschneider]

I would guess very, very little (unless you had a ring problem). The vapor gets sucked into the clean side of the air filter; not much is condensing and running back down into the engine, it seems. I think the TE's have a fine screen on the liquid return... but I CRS lately. getting old sux.

One of the guys running the ZTR system could plug the return line for one ride; then measure the amount in the hose after the ride. Just for curiosity's sake.

I'm going to the TXC routing eventually- just so I can stick my EE skid plate on finally. (I've had 3 stock skids plates, btw- but they're only about $11-12 so I don't really mind)

I would think the oil loss, if it is an issue, would only be an issue for sustained oil high rpm use. Such as you would see in street use. The on/off and part throttle use you see in woods riding I can't see generating enough crank case pressure to force that much oil out,

 

[Matthew525]

I think you would see more issues with seal leaks due to increased pressures.

I agree this would only be an issue at sustained high rpm situations.

 

[Huskynoobee]

well yes, sorta... but the 310 (not 250) xlites crankcase ventilation return the condensed oil to the bottom of the sump. A lot of people think this is vulnerable (I do also, but it's not a super big concern- I'm still running stock plumbing at 6000miles). The ZTR setup returns the oil from the tank (aka frame) to the oil fill cap location.

Correct, there is an updated oil return system and we can re-map your ECU to make it run better. DM may not be aware that Johnrg is a long time ZTR customer and one of the first to try many of the ZipTy products for the 310 on a consumer level. He ceratinly knows what he's talking about.