NEW TE250 Seat Height (sag spring)

[Bullantt]

hello guys
i am new to this forum and i only just got the new HUSKY TE250 yesterday and being a little short i ask the dealership if it could be lowered what they did was sag the rear spring but i am worried what effect this is going to have if any and is this going to be good or bad

i am new rider this is the first bike and i didn't know any better but i had my brother with me he has told me it feel a bit soft in the back

any advice on this would be great thanks

 

[DG Harv Serv]

Your "sag" needs to be about 100mm when you sit on the bike.
Put bike on a stand with rear wheel off the ground, measure from axle nut to a point on rear guard.
Sit on bike with feet on pegs measure again, should be 100mm less than first measurement. Adjust preload on spring to get 100mm.
Now get of bike bounce on rear and measure again, should be about 30mm sag with no rider.
If you have less than 25mm Spring is too soft, more than 35mm spring is too hard.

This needs to be right ! It affects the handling of the whole bike.

You can have the Shock "shortened" or fit a "lowering link" in the linkage, but you need the sag to be correct.

Hope this helps.

 

[Bullantt]

Your "sag" needs to be about 100mm when you sit on the bike.
Put bike on a stand with rear wheel off the ground, measure from axle nut to a point on rear guard.
Sit on bike with feet on pegs measure again, should be 100mm less than first measurement. Adjust preload on spring to get 100mm.
Now get of bike bounce on rear and measure again, should be about 30mm sag with no rider.
If you have less than 25mm Spring is too soft, more than 35mm spring is too hard.


This needs to be right ! It affects the handling of the whole bike.

You can have the Shock "shortened" or fit a "lowering link" in the linkage, but you need the sag to be correct.

Hope this helps.

This is very help full thank you but there is just something I'm not understanding here

I put the bIke on a stand back wheel off ground measure from axle nut to rear guard then sit on bike and adjust spring making sure when sitting on the bike there is 100mm less from first measurement

But how do i measure 30mm sag with no rider mean ?

if I measure from the axle nut to rear guard should it be 30mm less then the original measurement ?

Then next time I sit on bike won't sag be 70mm as the bike has sag lower 30mm

Sorry I just don't understand this part

Thanks for your help

 

[Kyle Tarry]

Measure fully extended (on stand) = A
Measure on ground, without rider = B
Measure with rider (ideally standing in attack position) = C

A-B = Static sag (should be 30mm)
A-C = Race sag (should be 100mm)

 

[DG Harv Serv]

As Kyle says above.

100mm is the "race sag" with you on it.
Bike should then have "static sag" of 30mm just under its own weight. (Wheels on ground).

 

[Bullantt]

hey guys thanks for your help u understand now what your talking about i am going to go check this today to make sure it is correct

is there anyway i can lower the bike without affecting the handling of the bike to much if i sit on the bike now i can just touch the ground with my toes on one foot and other on the foot peg

 

[James Patton]

Any full service shop should be able to drop the suspension an inch for you, front and back.
You may be able to use a lowering link for the rear and just drop the fork the same amount as the link.

 

[glangston]

Kouba Link or shave the seat foam down a bit or put softer foam in new seat.

 

[dratharr]

I just picked up a factory Husky Low seat for mine from Dan at Motoxotica. It is pretty sweet, a bit firmer but lower height seat foam, and it was a very reasonable price as well.

 

[Bullantt]

I have check my bike

It's sag 60mm no rider
And 120mm with rider

The bike shop showered the spring when I got it

If I change the sag to 30mm the bike would be higher and I could not touch the ground is it going to be bad with these settings

Thanks

 

[dratharr]

I have check my bike

It's sag 60mm no rider
And 120mm with rider

The bike shop showered the spring when I got it

If I change the sag to 30mm the bike would be higher and I could not touch the ground is it going to be bad with these settings

Thanks

With that much sag in the rear it will probably push with the front end and not steer too sharply. I have mine set at 105mm or so with the forks dropped to the second rings and it steers really good @ 120mm I would think the front end would be pretty raked out.

But I would ride it and see how you like it every one is different, I once bought a bike from an AA rider that had the rear sag set really low/long like that, it didnt work at all for me, but it obviously worked for him!

 

[DG Harv Serv]

120mm and 60mm is way too much. It will not want to turn .

I guess it depends on how / where you ride, but to get the best from the bike you need to preload the spring to get 100mm.

On the plus side you may find the spring is correct for your weight when set up.

 

[glangston]

Your "sag" needs to be about 100mm when you sit on the bike.
Put bike on a stand with rear wheel off the ground, measure from axle nut to a point on rear guard.
Sit on bike with feet on pegs measure again, should be 100mm less than first measurement. Adjust preload on spring to get 100mm.
Now get of bike bounce on rear and measure again, should be about 30mm sag with no rider.
If you have less than 25mm Spring is too soft, more than 35mm spring is too hard.

This needs to be right ! It affects the handling of the whole bike.

You can have the Shock "shortened" or fit a "lowering link" in the linkage, but you need the sag to be correct.

Hope this helps.

OK which direction should the rings be moving, up? or down onto the spring. About how many turns do you reckon will get me there? I'm guessing I'm going to be moving the rings down and putting more pre-load on it which will move the static sag closer to 30 and the race sage closer to 100. At 195 (without any gear or clothes) I think the rear is ball park correct spring for me from looking at Beta information.

My measurements are 63 cm on a lift, wheel off the ground
59 cm static
50 cm with me on it.

Edit...so I turned the rings down and eventually got about 105 on the SAG, just me, no gear, so thinking it still needs a bit more pre-load

 

[DG Harv Serv]

OK which direction should the rings be moving, up? or down onto the spring. About how many turns do you reckon will get me there? I'm guessing I'm going to be moving the rings down and putting more pre-load on it which will move the static sag closer to 30 and the race sage closer to 100. At 195 (without any gear or clothes) I think the rear is ball park correct spring for me from looking at Beta information.

My measurements are 63 cm on a lift, wheel off the ground
59 cm static
50 cm with me on it.

Edit...so I turned the rings down and eventually got about 105 on the SAG, just me, no gear, so thinking it still needs a bit more pre-load

630mm - 500mm = 130mm. Needs to be 100mm +/-

630mm - 590mm = 40mm. Needs to be 30mm +/-

Add preload by turning "rings" down . If you got to 105mm with no gear, go a little more. you want about 100 mm with gear.

Now measure static sag, (bike only) if its less than about 20mm your spring is too soft (my guess is it will be from numbers above ?).
You want about 30mm.

Just seen it is on a Beta, check the owners manual the 100mm and 30mm may vary slightly ?

 

[glangston]

Thanks.

I'll turn it down a bit more and also get SAG in standing attack position.

When I looked at the Beta offerings in shock springs the stocker fit my weight IIRC

Edit. Nope looks like 5.4 might be right, not stock 5.2

 

[DG Harv Serv]

Thanks.

I'll turn it down a bit more and also get SAG in standing attack position.

When I looked at the Beta offerings in shock springs the stocker fit my weight IIRC

You will find out by the numbers you get !

 

[hgearle]

You can lower your sitting height easily and cheaply by cutting your seat down by about an inch. I took the staples out of the seat leaving the rear 1/4 th still attached. I drew on the seat foam where I wanted to cut and used an electric carving knife (don't tell your wife) to cut away the foam. I then used a sanding block (a piece of wood) with 60 grit sandpaper and sanded the seat smooth. To reattach to cover, I tried my electric stapler but it would not go through the hard plastic of the seat. So I used the $15 dollar manual stapler (the one you squeeze to make the staples come out) and it worked great. It is easy to do and only takes an hour. I have a 1" Kouba link installed that only lowered my bike about 1/2 inch and I am going to replace it with the original link. BTW I am 5'5 tall.

 

[Kawagumby]

Good idea on the seat foam.

FWIW, stapling seat covers to the plastic pan is easier with a weaker stapler if you heat the plastic with a hair-drier first (tell your wife you're trying a new hair-do).


My TE310 was owned by a guy who put a Kouba link on the bike and didn't have enough rear preload (too much sag) on top of that. The footpegs were bent, the plastic was destroyed and one radiator was smashed. All that with only 600 miles on the odo. The poor guy was crashing himself and the bike into oblivion. He told me it wouldn't turn on soft ground. The moral of that story is get the bike setup right.


You can raise the forks in the triples (I prefer that over spacers as you don't need to modify or change the springs), but the rear shock would need a spacer installed.

Why these bikes are so darned tall is a mystery to me. I'm 5'10" but my old sore back does not like having to stretch out to get my leg over the seat. These things are taller than the MX'rs I used to ride.