• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New Ignition for my husky

yes the sem was pretty fragile as well. modern new replacement stuff is on a different plane of reliability than sem
 
I'd check the whole wiring on the ignition system for a bare wire for a short too. If you have a kill switch check that too for s sticky button. For me the points and condenser ignition systems in any piece of equipment once the points are cleaned( a point file) and regapped it should be more reliable than a cdi SEM ignition. Done give up on it these are awesome bikes.

In a pinch I carry a piece of fine grit sand paper in my wallet. I clean the points then fold the sand paper smooth side out and put it through the points to remove and loose grit that can hold the points open. Trust me this method works in a pinch.

As kids we were in New York drinking one night. The 58 Chevy we were in stopped running. No spark. We used a match book cover were you strike the match. It worked to clean the points and we made it home.

MaCGyver has nothing on the guys on this forum where all unmatched were the best. We all bring something different to the forum.
 
dont get me wrong points can be fairly reliable if you dont mind messing with them time to time. it is certainly much better than not being able to ride.
 
I only said to clean the points and use a cheap coil because the problem may not lay with the ignition and it would be a real bummer to spend $400-$600 on a new ignition only to end up with the same problem.
 
I suggested the hard starting could be the carb. The jets or the choke system could be hummed up from sitting. If the balance is off or the idle speed screw on the sleeve in the carb is too far in giving it way too much air. This can be caused by the balance being off and were compisation by turning in the sleeve screw trying to make it idle. It could be the previous owner messed it up. Brothers I been there many times.

Lower the idle, balance it to the best rpm, lower the idle again and lower the idle again.
Clean the carb first. Make sure the air cleaner is cleaned and lightly oiled.

I like seeing them respond to readjusting it till they purr. They start to talk to us.
 
Bigbill said:
I suggested the hard starting could be the carb. The jets or the choke system could be hummed up from sitting. If the balance is off or the idle speed screw on the sleeve in the carb is too far in giving it way too much air. This can be caused by the balance being off and were compisation by turning in the sleeve screw trying to make it idle. It could be the previous owner messed it up. Brothers I been there many times.

Lower the idle, balance it to the best rpm, lower the idle again and lower the idle again.
Clean the carb first. Make sure the air cleaner is cleaned and lightly oiled.

I like seeing them respond to readjusting it till they purr. They start to talk to us.
Click to expand...

right now I dont have a spark, but I have thought about the carb too. The carb is brand new, so there might be some problems with it. Its hard to tune something that isnt running, if you know what I mean. Where can I find standard adjustments for this carb BING 32mm? Just to have a good starting point
 
Bigbill said:
I'd check the whole wiring on the ignition system for a bare wire for a short too. If you have a kill switch check that too for s sticky button. For me the points and condenser ignition systems in any piece of equipment once the points are cleaned( a point file) and regapped it should be more reliable than a cdi SEM ignition. Done give up on it these are awesome bikes.

In a pinch I carry a piece of fine grit sand paper in my wallet. I clean the points then fold the sand paper smooth side out and put it through the points to remove and loose grit that can hold the points open. Trust me this method works in a pinch.

As kids we were in New York drinking one night. The 58 Chevy we were in stopped running. No spark. We used a match book cover were you strike the match. It worked to clean the points and we made it home.

MaCGyver has nothing on the guys on this forum where all unmatched were the best. We all bring something different to the forum.
Click to expand...
I will try to make it work with what I have. I have already tried to change out the wiring, bypassed the killswitch. I will se tonight what await when I take the flywheel off
 
I have purchased and used 3 Powerdynamo sets and really liked them and find starting real easy, I baught from Penton Racing Products 404 989 4474 they will know what model to send you by year make and model.
 
Ok, I just came home with my new flywheel removalset only to find that the F....ing threads in the flywheels are f...cked by the previous owner. Thats why the bosch is still on there :). So, any bright ideas on removal? I am going to make an alternativ one, using the treaded holes that are in the flywheel. Maybe someone has a good idea?
 
Sometimes I think they shouldn't allow the PO's to buy tools. Try the threaded holes in the flywheel but make sure there thru holes. Be careful she will come apart. Sometimes a gentle wack on the corner of the outer edge will pop the taper apart. Put some attention on the puller first. Make sure the nut is on the crank threads before you attach the puller. The nut will protect the crank threads.
 
Apply plenty of penetrating oil, use your new homemade puller, if it does not pop of don't keep applying pressure until something breaks, leave it under pressure overnight, then give it a gentle tap and it will just fall of! If it doesn't bring on the heat! [
 
Tighten up the puller and give a tap on the puller hex. Make sure you put anti- seeze or oil on the puller threads so they don't gall.
 
I made my own tool and now the damn thing is off! Finally. I must be a genius:) Thanks to everyone helping me here.
The coils look damaged with a little rift in one of them. And there is a lot else that looks damaged in there. Looks like someone rebuild part of the engine with fiberglass or something. I will just close my eyes to that I think.....So I guess the next step is to order the electronic igniton.
ps: sorry for the bad pics20141117_204623.jpg20141117_204632.jpg
 
I have repaired cases on my AJS Stormer with fiberglass, it did a perfectly good job.
On the old Villiers engined bikes if they would not spark properly I used to use the points a battery and 12v DC coil, you could then prove the engine.
Also used on my lads field bike when he was a boy, I used to remove the battery if he wouldn't do his homework
 
If you remove the coils mark them a save the picture one is a lighting coil and one is a ignition coil don't mix them up.

You can use a meter to check to see if it's shorted first.

You can rewrap a field coil. You need the exact same size copper wire and you need to count how many complete turns there is when you remove it so you can replace it with the same amount of turns so the generated output is the same.

Note, I rewrapped lighting coils with smaller diameter wire with more turns to increase the wattage so we could switch from the single bulb headline to the twin bulb lights.
On night rides it was a big difference.
 
The little coil on the left is usually a small wattage TAILLIGHT COIL. The larger one under it is the headlight coil. The one on the right is the ignition coil. On Sachs motors there is a measurement called the shoe gap-it is the distance from the end of the coil to the magnet on the flywheel when the points open up. Hard to explain but if you saw a picture it will make sense.
I have not seen Husky's docs mention this. Points ignitions really are not bad once you go thru them, clean every thing with GOOD grounds and clean solder joints. We raced a DKW from Vegas to Reno in 98 and we used a Bosch magneto with a rewound light coil-526 miles without a miss in 18 hours 23 minutes.
 
I said Mark or take a pic of where the coils are mounted because I purchased a Suzuki ds80 once the guy was trying to make one bike run from two bikes. He bugged the dealer too. He couldn't get spark. He had the two coils backwards. I switched them and she fired right up. I just made a guess. I bought the two non running bikes cheap.

Like I said some people shouldn't be allowed to buy/own tools.
 
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