• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New Guy 2010 Te 450 Advice

With the lambda connected, the base map is supposed to achieve a target AFR and if off target, it adjusts. As you say above. I don't think it is adjusting on the fly, rather looking for a trend and adjusting over a period of time. The level of this adjustment can be seen in iBeat.

With the PU, a different map is loaded, but with no AFR feedback. This map is fuelled for power rather than emissions / economy. When you adjust the CO settings in iBeat, you then modify the PU map up or down in 3 zones. This allows for corrections to make the bike run better, or to correct for opening up the air box / high flow air filter / sports exhaust etc.

It will be interesting to see how it performs with a big altitude change in a short distance. We don't have that problem in the UK!
 
That all makes perfect sense. And, while I realize this will not meet California Air Resources Board standards for a motor vehicle, they don't do testing on this size of engine displacement at this time anyway. In reality, it's going to be ridden very few miles compared to the miles driven in a typical automobile or street bike. Short trips on pavement, longer on dirt, but the total will be low. And soon, we will be relocating to Arizona, where the rules aren't nearly as strict anyway. So, Ca Air Resources Board will not be a factor. They are, after all, proposing new emissions standards for lawn mowers, weed eaters, edgers, and blowers that gardeners and homeowners use.
 
We have Euro controls on motorbike emissions, but for the annual test, there is no emissions testing as there is with cars. I guess the number of motorbikes and the fact that the testers are often smaller shops without expensive test equipment means that they turn a blind eye to modifications.
 
Ok, got the TPS all checked and working well, and CO setup at 103, 106, and 109. Runs great, really rips! No chance to get it off road for a couple weeks, so can’t check the flameout yet. But it sure feels stable so far on pavement. I’ll need to do some suspension settings too, but that should be a piece of cake.
 
I had a 2010 TE450, put over 20,000 miles on it. The EFI does very little if any adjustments for altitude. I ran my bike at 1000 feet elevation, and alot at 5000 feet with trips up to 7000 and 10000 feet. My mileage was always the same: between 25 and 32 MPG, depending on how much sand, mud and wind. My bike was dealer-tuned very rich, started easy, ran like a wild beast, rode it 50 miles at 70mph one time with no rad fluid, burned many little things but no piston damage at all.
 
Just did a little street run yesterday. 30miles is all, around town. Starts a bit easier, but still not quite where I want it. Got 32 mpg with mixed accel, decel , 60-65 mph on Coast Highway and some idling at stop lights. Runs great. Haven’t checked the spark plug yet, but I sort of expect a chocolate brown color. It was what I would call a light tan color before I richened it a bit.
 
Read about that. Good reminder. Tons of vibration in these, especially at low revs. I wonder if anyone has ordered the countershaft and weight they designed these for, and seem to only install into the SM version of this engine? I wonder if that makes them more comfortable to ride, and easier to live with in terms of reliability, loose fasteners, ripped intake boots, etc?
 
So, I'm a bit embarrassed now. I messed with the CO settings, and had what seemed to work well. Then, it once again became hard to start, popping, and a bit of the hesitation came back. So, I richened it further to CO1= 105, CO2=108, CO3= 110. Ran great. Then I discovered that the front clamp on the rubber intake boot was loose. No cracks, but a loose clamp will do the same thing. That's probably why it became inconsistent. Need to learn the new starting routine. I'll take it for a ride this afternoon and see. But this time the choke seemed to do exactly what it was supposed to do. But I still had to give the throttle a whack or two to get a burst of fuel into the mixture to get it started. My guess is that this ought to be very consistent now.

I do have one question, though. When idling for a few minutes, should the coolant temp be up to 107+C, or 225F? Should it normally get that warm? I did learn that the fan works fine, and seems to click on around 220F give or take a few degrees. Once the fan came on, it seemed to stabilize around 107 or so. I didn't let it idle much longer. I took it around the block to get some air flowing thru the radiators.
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
Here's my 2010 TE450 with over 20,000 miles, after I cleaned the injector, and after many, many other issues!

Click to expand...

Starts right up. Mine just did. Runs even better than before. Only problem? I lost all power to head and tail light, instrument panel, turn signals. Still runs fine, just no lights or horn, and no instrument.
 
So, I suspected a fuse, since they all went out at the same time while I was a few miles from the house. Traced in the manual wiring diagram, and it appeared they were all fed by the 20a fuse. Sure enough, it was burned. New fuse, and it all works fine again.
 
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