• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New 86 WR400 owner here, help!

Rhodeislander

Rhodeislander

Husqvarna
B Class
Ok,
so i have been waiting for an old Husky to come along and she did today. I was told its and 1986, but would like to know how to confirm this.

Next, i was told not to use the cold start lever. Instead, pull plug,crank over 6-9 times, replace plug and she should fire?

Next, a 32 to 1 mix was advised?

Thanks guys,
Very new to these, not bikes however. Have a 71 Rokon, CBR1000f all heavily wrenched by me. Just new to these, and want to get it right.
Thanks
Bud
 
Pull Plug??? someones pulling your plug... a 2- should start with the choke on, no throttle (assuming weather is 10 - 20 degrees) in two or three god kicks. everytime. By the time youve done 5 or 6 and it hasnt lit up then there is something wrong! pull the carb off and blow out the all the orifices,. pull the choke off and check the plunger and sealing washers arnt knackered.
go to the vintage husky site and download a prts manual do you can check everything out. Print and bind it for a ready reference.
if the motor is full of fuel, (requiring the plug out trick) the float level may be too high. the wrong plug type? are the main seals gone letting gbox oil in? is the fuel stale? these new unleadeds go off in 3- 6months and loose their punch.
the single shocker 400 is a great bike. can you put up some picks?

im running mine on 100: 1 motorex synthetic oil and unleaded.starts a treat

good luck
 
Helpful Info can be found in teh Vinage Tech Ref and Parts forum here at C.H.
I would read the owners manual cover to cover a couple of times.

You can use the 1987 or 88 owners manual for reference, has a very good carb tuning section.

http//www.yourhusky.com/files/88-husky-ownerman.pdf
http//www.yourhusky.com/files/86-2t-shop-manual.pdf

Hall Husqvarna in Sprinfield Illionois has alot of parts make sure you talk to Raymond.

Cafe Husky member Huskydogg also has parts and know how.
www.huskydogg.com is his website, I can't get the link to work

husqvarnaparts.com is also a good vintage supplier

I've found alot of good parts on Ebay, NOS and some used (buyer beware).

I bought my 88 250wr new and I run my huskys at 20:1 just like the book says and have never had any crank or piston issues.
 
Super info guys. I paid 400 and its mostly all there. Noticed no kill switch, thats first on the list. Just want to get her running good for now, run thru summer, then restore over the winter. Really need a seat cover, anyone have luck doing this yourself?
 
I picked up a 1986 400WR in a package of several basket cases about 5 years ago. I was told the frame was powdercoated and found it was overpainted about 4 layers thick when somthing fell on the rear frame loop and chipped it. I picked up another I was told was a 1986 . Turned out to be a 1986 400WRX as it was the last year of the front drum brake and the first year of a WR single shock during the last year of twin shock production
 
Ok,
so mixed up some fuel. Knew it didnt have a rear brake lever and rod, but figured,I can handle it. Choke on, 2 kicks, she is running. Loud and rowdy, shift into 2nd gear, just a little throttle, nothing crazy, and bang she's standing up! Omg, no rear brake to tap! In my mind im saying, boy this was a bad idea.
I get the front wheel down and used the front brake to land safely in my driveway. I am 6'2 280, this bike dont even know I'm there. I forgot to mention, one of the kicks smacked my shin, big gash, bloody, the works.
So, here I am, bloody, heart racing...thinking, I cant wait to do that again. Pictures taken of the bike, I will load tonight.
 
Rhodeislander said:
Ok,
so mixed up some fuel. Knew it didnt have a rear brake lever and rod, but figured,I can handle it. Choke on, 2 kicks, she is running. Loud and rowdy, shift into 2nd gear, just a little throttle, nothing crazy, and bang she's standing up! Omg, no rear brake to tap! In my mind im saying, boy this was a bad idea.
I get the front wheel down and used the front brake to land safely in my driveway. I am 6'2 280, this bike dont even know I'm there. I forgot to mention, one of the kicks smacked my shin, big gash, bloody, the works.
So, here I am, bloody, heart racing...thinking, I cant wait to do that again. Pictures taken of the bike, I will load tonight.
Click to expand...

Oh Ya, first rule in starting a Husky, put your boots on :). Alot of the parts will enter change from 1985-88 depending on what it is.

What ratio did you mix the fuel/oil?
 
Rhodeislander said:
When looking for parts can I use 85 parts or 87 on my 86?
Click to expand...
What parts do you need? I have a parts bike '86 250 WR that is free for the taking (beer donations are welcome ha ha, but not necessary). All I want to keep is the motor and carb. The bike is definitely rough, but maybe has some parts useful to you. Attached is a photo.
 

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Mogly406 said:
What parts do you need? I have a parts bike '86 250 WR that is free for the taking (beer donations are welcome ha ha, but not necessary). All I want to keep is the motor and carb. The bike is definitely rough, but maybe has some parts useful to you. Attached is a photo.
Click to expand...
I'm still figuring this thing out, I will need misc parts. The front motor mount bolts are carriage bolts from someones deck...The motor rocks laterally and seems the rear engine flange bushings are missing? Plastics are cracked and shot. Just trying to make it safe for now, will restore over winter. Rear rim has crack, I will post pictures. I really appreciate your offer, and beer is no problem! What town are you in?
 
Rhodeislander said:
I'm still figuring this thing out, I will need misc parts. The front motor mount bolts are carriage bolts from someones deck...The motor rocks laterally and seems the rear engine flange bushings are missing? Plastics are cracked and shot. Just trying to make it safe for now, will restore over winter. Rear rim has crack, I will post pictures. I really appreciate your offer, and beer is no problem! What town are you in?
Click to expand...
Sent you a PM.
 
Mogly406 said:
What parts do you need? I have a parts bike '86 250 WR that is free for the taking (beer donations are welcome ha ha, but not necessary). All I want to keep is the motor and carb. The bike is definitely rough, but maybe has some parts useful to you. Attached is a photo.
Click to expand...


What shape is the tank in? Would you sell the rear sub frame?

Thanks
Steve.
 
You really have to get the engine mounting squared away first. Remove the engine and hopefully there isn't any cracking back there just enlarged holes. Since I have been unable to purchace those inserts any more making or having some made is my suggestion. Then install the new parts with a two part epoxey. The front mounts can be made from quarter inch aluminum plate and 5/16 bolts (8mm if you wish but they are real close), you can get by weight in grade 2,5,or 8 at tractor supply or grade 5 at a John Deere tractor dealer at least in my travels. I try and get the non threaded part as long as possible not match overall length. The swingarm pivot bolt may be in bad shape as the holes it goes into in the frame. You at that time can access the needle bearings and the hard parts they roll against (of which there are more than any other husky design) for servicability. Sorry to type all this stuff. 85-86 is pretty mush all you have for frame, shock, linkage, and swingarm parts as well as the plastic for the most part.
 
Rhodeislander said:
I'm still figuring this thing out, I will need misc parts. The front motor mount bolts are carriage bolts from someones deck...The motor rocks laterally and seems the rear engine flange bushings are missing? Plastics are cracked and shot. Just trying to make it safe for now, will restore over winter. Rear rim has crack, I will post pictures. I really appreciate your offer, and beer is no problem! What town are you in?
Click to expand...

I have a good set of rear bushings. Still in the broken cases you can have. I'll get them out. I think I also have a set of factory bolts. You should grab that spare bike may come in handy!
 
husky jim said:
I have a good set of rear bushings. Still in the broken cases you can have. I'll get them out. I think I also have a set of factory bolts. You should grab that spare bike may come in handy!
Click to expand...
Hi Jim,
I found a good set of front mount bolts and plates on ebay, being shipped now. I do need the flange bushings, it feel as if someone left them out entirely? The swingarm bolt is firm, no slop. Motor rocks back and forth a good amount. I have made arrangements for the spare bike, a very nice offer on his part and yours. I do thank you both. Pm me for shipping info, and where to send you some money.
 
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