• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

New 2011 TE 310 owner with questions

blackdiamond

blackdiamond

Husqvarna
A Class
Hello all.

I have had my 2011 TE 310 for few days and it now has 75 miles on the clock(powered it up today). Loving it so far! OK here are my questions;

I am 175 lbs with gear and I ride mostly enduros. I am looking for a set of softer springs(front and rear) Any suggestions where to buy them?

Who sells folding levers for this bike?

Who sells a nice bash plate?

Thinking of trying a 12t front sprocket for the nasty stuff - Anyone out there running one?

In the past I have noticed Huskys spewing coolant in the harder sections is there anything I can do in advance to avoid this?

Thanks in advance for your replies!
 
Hi,
I use a husky bash plate (special part cat #8000H2438?), it is strong but I welded in some flat bar as permanent spacers for easier install.

12t front sprocket works well and recommend if you do a lot of tight and technical riding.

I have never had a overheating problem on my TE310 (most of my riding is 1st and 2nd stuff).

That's all I can help with, good luck.
 
I bought springs directly from Racetech.com They have an on-line calculator to tell you the right spring rate. The new springs were right on for me based on sag measurements, and felt right too. Their shock spring requires an extra spacer, it's cheap but make sure to order it. They're a bit odd to order from, they seem more set up to take orders from dealers.

Not that you probably need it, but I'll show off my thread anyway: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/spring-replacement-on-an-11-te-250.21866/

I'm a big fan of low gearing. My personal rule of thumb is that a bike should run at 4 mph in 1st at idle with the clutch out. That number may be totally different for you, depending on your skill and terrain, but you may find that whatever speed worked for you on another bike will work for you on the new one.

Not what you asked, but I've never damaged a lever since switching to the heavy aluminum handguards. They also make great handles for pulling bikes out of mud holes.

I like the uptite skid plate. It seems strong enough but I haven't beaten on it very hard yet. The holes look a bit goofy but they make it easier to clean out. Supposedly they let the motor run cooler too.

IMG9571-M.jpg
 
The stock springs on a TE are 42 front and 5.0 in the rear.

At your weight they should be fine...especially the shock.

If you ride rocks, you will need a revalve.

Send forks at least to Drew Smith at WER.

It will be fine when it gets back.
 
I am about 175 with gear and crap. The springs are fine for me. Sometimes they are a tad to soft. I do California desert and mountain riding. Obviously no mx riding. Don't spend the money unless you really notice a problem. I have had springs done by many people in So. Cal. It has always been worth the money. Seat Concepts made me a shorter and softer seat. It is awesome. Good luck.
 
Thanks so much for your replies!

I bought the motorsportz disc gaurds(Wow, they look fantastic!), skid plate(uptite's looks to have more coverage) and 12t sprocket. I will post a pic when I get it all installed.

I will check with uptite for the folding levers -Thanks glangston. I know a guy who broke both wrists in aluminum hand gaurds - Since hearing about it, I don't use them anymore. I am not trying to bash hand gaurds, They have saved me many times in the past.

My XR had .35 fork spings which were way soft but, work really, really well in tight nasty rocks. I now have 200 miles on the stock suspension and it is working very nicely in the open desert and whoops. The rear seems perfect for me. I will hold out on changing the springs for now.

As for idling in first gear, will your 310 do it? Mine has no power at idle. If you are not covering the clutch it is going to stall. I will put the 12t on and try it again. Does anyone make a low end camshaft for the 310? I would gladly give up some top end HPs if I could gain a little torque down low.

Really glad to hear no one is over heating the 310.
 
I have the '11 also and at 168 lb w/o gear, the stock springs were fine for me too.

I use ARC folding levers ($65 each) and Moose Folding MX guards. The only time I've heard of guys breaking wrists with barkbusters were when riding MX with them and going over the bars hard.

Mine can crawl at trials bike pace in first with stock sprokets. I tried a 13/52 once but it revs out too quickly.

If it's down on power at or near idle then the EFI likely wasn't set up correctly. However, my next upgrade will be the upgraded 12 port FI and ECU. The guys at the shop where I bought mine also race and when they ran the new 12 TXC 310 with that upgrade they said "Finally, that is how the bike SHOULD run." It's $400ish but worth it as it fixes the issues--it has a more aggresive ignition map and the ECU comes ready to rock (instead of having to be tinkered with to get decent power out of it)

The fan should be kicking on in tight stuff so it shouldn't boil over.
 
venturini said:
However, my next upgrade will be the upgraded 12 port FI and ECU. The guys at the shop where I bought mine also race and when they ran the new 12 TXC 310 with that upgrade they said "Finally, that is how the bike SHOULD run." It's $400ish but worth it as it fixes the issues--it has a more aggresive ignition map and the ECU comes ready to rock (instead of having to be tinkered with to get decent power out of it)
Click to expand...

More like $1200ish as it requires the race exhaust. You can buy just the ecu/injector, but they're designed and tuned to work with the race exhaust...
 
"can crawl at trials bike pace" Now this is what I am after:D!!! Please tell me what to do to get my 310 crawling! I ride trials and this thing surely does not crawl at all.

How would the EFI not be set up correctly? Are the factory ECUs not set up correctly? My ECU is not tuned. My bike has been "powered up" with all the parts that came with the bike(DB killer, removed cat, air filter insert, removed O2 sensor and plug installed in the harness, removed throttle stop, 13t front and 50t rear sprockets). By "set up correctly" Do you mean tuned with one of the aftermarket tuners? I'll tune it or get the $400 upgrade if it will give me good bottom end power. Is your bikes ECU tuned?

Also, Please post what you think of the upgraded 12 port FI and ECU when you get it installed.
 
Well, speaking to guys here that race AND the several of the fine gents at Halls, they all say that the 12 port with ECU alone is a marked improvement---the exhuast will, of course, further enhance it but the big difference is in the ignition mapping--the 12 port nozzle is a nice bonus as it just improves the atomization rate. Further, the other aftermarket exhausts, especially the PC with the "PowerBomb" style header and FMF outpeform the Husky special parts exhausts--and that is from guys who work at Husky dealerships AND race. Of course Husky will state that the 12 hole and ECU runs best with THEIR exhaust, just like most companies state that "for best results" only use their products with each other---$$$$$$$ These guys that race have gone through stock (arrow), Akro, Leo Vince, etc and all ended up with either FMF or PC so the statment that it works best with the Husky exhaust designed for it is lost on me.

I'll still get the 12 port and ECU and we can tweak the EFI if needed to run the stock exhasut.

Besides, of heard many times of guys getting the Husky Special Parts ECU/exhuast combo and they frankly run like crap out of the box even after basic TPS tweaks.
 
blackdiamond said:
"can crawl at trials bike pace" Now this is what I am after:D!!! Please tell me what to do to get my 310 crawling! I ride trials and this thing surely does not crawl at all.

How would the EFI not be set up correctly? Are the factory ECUs not set up correctly? My ECU is not tuned. My bike has been "powered up" with all the parts that came with the bike(DB killer, removed cat, air filter insert, removed O2 sensor and plug installed in the harness, removed throttle stop, 13t front and 50t rear sprockets). By "set up correctly" Do you mean tuned with one of the aftermarket tuners? I'll tune it or get the $400 upgrade if it will give me good bottom end power. Is your bikes ECU tuned?

Also, Please post what you think of the upgraded 12 port FI and ECU when you get it installed.
Click to expand...

Well, the "crawling at trials bike pace" is probably more about technique than the specific bike (though the jetting/EFI has to be set right too). I always have the clutch and front brake covered and there are time where clutch, front brake, and throttle are working at the same time. What I have set up on the woods is a really tight section with handlebar width trees and a super tight 180 combined. It works like this---veer right, through the rut, wiggle through trees THEN these steps: pull clutch, off the gas, on the front brake, turn bars while balancing bike (feet on pegs), release clutch, crack throttle slighty and let off a little on front brake, make 90 degree turn, release front brake, little more throttle, go one bike length, turn left, repeat previous steps to complete 180. So the bike is crawling but there are times when I have to pull in the clutch, stop and balance and adjust the bikes angle, and continue but I'm 1/16th throttle WITH brakes applied and it's not stalling.

The ECU as delivered is hindered by the EPA imposed emmision setting that make the TE street legal. If all the street garbabe (cat, throttle stop, etc.) are removed but the ECUs CO settings aren't adjusted, it won't run well at all. The guy that set up my bike rode it before tinkering with the ECU just to get an idea of what was needed for tuning and he described it as "unrideable" with the stock settings. And, yes, that included a serious stumble off of idle.

I still bought the JD Jetting EFI tuner because it can adjust more than the 3 CO settings BUT, that's $200ish and it still won't run as well as it could because of the revised ignition mapping that is programmed into the upgraded ECU.

Yes, as I mentioned above, Husky claims that one should buy the whole package for $1200. However, there are several really fast AA guys that run Huskies in my district including the guy that won the class in '10 and was only 1 point behind 1st place going into the last round of '11 before one hideous lap ended his chance at repeating. A few did the 12 port and ECU upgrade but guess what--they did NOT use the Husky "upgrade" exhaust but stayed with the FMF units they'd used with the stock ECU. The bikes were hooked up to I-beat and, IIRC, only the closed throttle position needed to be recalibrated. If a guys that can win the AA class, and ride in the 6 Days Enduro in Finland says "Nope, I didn't need the Husky Special Parts exhaust", I'm inclined to believe him.

Will update on the upgrade for sure. It will likely be going on next month.
 
venturini said:
f a guys that can win the AA class, and ride in the 6 Days Enduro in Finland says "Nope, I didn't need the Husky Special Parts exhaust", I'm inclined to believe him.
Click to expand...

A key point is that he was NOT running the stock exhaust...
 
Sounds good to me. I will check with my dealer for the injector/ecu upgrade. I should ask for the upgraded injector and ecu for a 2012 TXC310 - Correct?
 
blackdiamond said:
Or is it a regular 2012 TXC310 ECU I need?
Click to expand...

Check out this thread that's over in the EFI/Carb forum. You'll find the part numbers and a LOT of info (some say you have to get the WHOLE kit with exhaust, others say just the injector and ECU rips.) http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/12-hole-injector-upgrade-for-te250-te310.19669/

I don't recall if the '12 TXC 310 comes with the 12 port and upgraded ECU. I had my hands on the unit Saturday---don't panic if you get it and it says "TXC250" on the bottom of the EDC.
 
venturini said:
Check out this thread that's over in the EFI/Carb forum. You'll find the part numbers and a LOT of info (some say you have to get the WHOLE kit with exhaust, others say just the injector and ECU rips.) http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/12-hole-injector-upgrade-for-te250-te310.19669/

I don't recall if the '12 TXC 310 comes with the 12 port and upgraded ECU. I had my hands on the unit Saturday---don't panic if you get it and it says "TXC250" on the bottom of the EDC.
Click to expand...

You don't HAVE to get anything, but the ECU it tuned to work with the race exhaust. Whether not it's tuned well? Well.. if Husky was doing a good job of tuning, people wouldn't be buying JD's 6X Surge tuners, right? But those can't adjust everything. So running the injector/ECU without the race exhaust is likely to require some extra work. I'm sure if you have the equipment (ie: iBeat) and some time and experience, that it can be made to work well. Ok, maybe not SURE, but fairly confident. ;)

IIRC, the 12 hole injector is a green plug and the 4 hole is yellow. If you know where to look, it can be seen on a stock bike without removing anything, just by peering at the engine from the side.
 
I checked out the other thread. Thanks for the info. My dealer is checking to make sure they can sell any of it in CA! Ugh...
 
photo_04.html

The 2012 txc310 does have the green, 12 hole injector and ECU mapping improvements according to this dirt rider review;
http://www.dirtrider.com/reviews/dirt_bike/141_1112_2012_husqvarna_310_txc/index.html

"...from the first minutes on the Husqvarna you realize it is very peppy, aggressive actually, and likes to be ridden aggressively. That is not to say that the power delivery is hard to ride or needs to be revved to make good use, it actually has a lot of pick-up, bottom and mid-range power. There isn’t much in the way of flywheel effect so stalling with the throttle closed can be an issue, but if you have it cracked at all the bike is very torquey and resists bogging down as good, if not better than, other 350cc bikes. The FI is not the best we have sampled, but it is such an improvement over the previous versions you have to give Husky credit for getting it this much better..."
 
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