• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc "New" 2001 WR 360

NvRider55

Husqvarna
AA Class
2001 Husky 001.jpg I picked up a real low hour 360 about a month ago, still had the original tires. It was all stock, has a 420 main and 35 pilot in the stock carb, I went to the top clip position on the needle as it seems a little rich (5000'). Other than beeing hard to start when cold I love this bike, about the best off road motor I`ve ever ridden. So far I put new springs in both ends, fat bars and skid plate. Anyone that rides or has ridden the 360 and has any tips or advice would be welcome. Thanks
 
Here is a list of things that I have done to my 360 and it is true woods weapon: Auto decomp head, EFM auto clutch, Steahly FWW, Left hand rear brake and two finger clutch(retained the pedal too), all the typical protection, I ported out the intake boot and reed stuffer so it would flow the same amount of charge as the carb will deliver(really helped upper mid to top), PWK air striker 38mm, the fat bars, trail tech vapor, a tall/soft guts seat and a few personal touches. With stock gearing it will pull 90+ mph and still climb anything in 4th gear without stalling. Have had a couple of offers to sell and I am really struggling with the idea no matter how much I want a new scoot.
 
Here is a list of things that I have done to my 360 and it is true woods weapon: Auto decomp head, EFM auto clutch, Steahly FWW, Left hand rear brake and two finger clutch(retained the pedal too), all the typical protection, I ported out the intake boot and reed stuffer so it would flow the same amount of charge as the carb will deliver(really helped upper mid to top), PWK air striker 38mm, the fat bars, trail tech vapor, a tall/soft guts seat and a few personal touches. With stock gearing it will pull 90+ mph and still climb anything in 4th gear without stalling. Have had a couple of offers to sell and I am really struggling with the idea no matter how much I want a new scoot.
Could you post a pic of the LH rear brake and two finger clutch? I only ever use one or two fingers on my clutch anyway and a LH brake would be handy. I could care less about the auto clutch and have never considered one because I'm picky about my clutch function but if I could have my clutch and and add a brake that would be a real plus.
 
I've heard gearing 14/48 is the bulls balls, when I get mines together (one more week) That's my next buy.
 
Everything that Wallybean said with the Keihin being the best mod you could do to the 360 as the Mikuni found in that model(TM) is totally different from the Wr250 (TMX) plus they were a prick to start hot.
I'm hopefully picking up a 00 WR250 and dumping my 96 WR360 motor into it!
 
Thanks for the replies, I was thinking the PWK too, but honestly it runs pretty good, once in a while I get a little bog. I find it harder to start cold, but I`m getting it started pretty good now.
 
Thanks for the replies, I was thinking the PWK too, but honestly it runs pretty good, once in a while I get a little bog. I find it harder to start cold, but I`m getting it started pretty good now.
The trick to starting mine cold on the first kick is to lean it to the left until the carb vent pees fuel, then bring it to TDC with some pressure, choke on and one good kick and it's running
 
Could you post a pic of the LH rear brake and two finger clutch? I only ever use one or two fingers on my clutch anyway and a LH brake would be handy. I could care less about the auto clutch and have never considered one because I'm picky about my clutch function but if I could have my clutch and and add a brake that would be a real plus.

It is a magura clutch master cylinder, lever, and a 2 finger lever top mount from Rekluse. I don't know if it would work well with the stock clutch pack as the little two finger lever doesn't have much of a mechanical advantage. With the auto clutch ease of pull it is no issue on the 360. Auto clutch on the 360 is about as perfect an application as there is. You rarely if ever need to use the clutch but it is very easy to actuate when you do. Damn thing will never stall with the auto clutch when you do crash the beast.
 
GREAT find. Love it.

replace the muffler and get power and loose a ton of high placed weight.

The forks on those are not my favorite. A dude on here form Canada sells some base valves that are said to fix them. Typically a standard revalve does not fix them 100% because the stock base valve does not flow enough oil.
 
The forks on those are not my favorite. A dude on here form Canada sells some base valves that are said to fix them. Typically a standard revalve does not fix them 100% because the stock base valve does not flow enough oil.


'00 - '04 are the same forks? Is what House of HP or LTR do, on the same par as this Canadian valve?[/quote]
 
'00 - '04 are the same forks? Is what House of HP or LTR do, on the same par as this Canadian valve?
[/quote]

I think the more flowing base valve is key to making them works right and not have that mid stroke harshness. I have an 04 CR125 i just ordered Gold valves for them i am sending the gold valves and forks / shock to Richard at House of Horsepower to do his magic. I expect it to be very good.
 
Here is a list of things that I have done to my 360 and it is true woods weapon: Auto decomp head, EFM auto clutch, Steahly FWW, Left hand rear brake and two finger clutch(retained the pedal too), all the typical protection, I ported out the intake boot and reed stuffer so it would flow the same amount of charge as the carb will deliver(really helped upper mid to top), PWK air striker 38mm, the fat bars, trail tech vapor, a tall/soft guts seat and a few personal touches. With stock gearing it will pull 90+ mph and still climb anything in 4th gear without stalling. Have had a couple of offers to sell and I am really struggling with the idea no matter how much I want a new scoot.

Do you have the specs of your trailtech vapor? - I have just bought 02 WR360, but has no speedo and would like to put one on. Trail tech help want a whole heap of tech data from bike to try match but would be great to know spec from one that is running.
 
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