• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Need Help with Leaking Clutch Master Cylinder - TE310

R

Rossim22

Husqvarna
Today I was riding on my '09 Husqvarna TE310 and I noticed that my clutch was engaging sooner than normal. Shortly after, I could pull in the clutch (w/ no pressure) while riding and I wasn't disengaging at all. Then the symptoms completely went away and I thought I dodged a bullet, only to lose all clutch control about 5 mins later. After an hour walk home I noticed that the master cylinder right by the lever has fluid all around. The reservoir is still almost full so the cylinder is just not building pressure.

Anyone have ideas on how to fix this? I'm looking to NOT order anything and be riding tomorrow afternoon. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks
 
First make sure the banjo bolt holding the hose to the master is tight and did not get knocked loose. If the oil is not coming from there and actually the master cylinder piston your going to need to take it apart and replace the seal. It is the same part as KTM uses so you might get one at a local KTM dealer. Also these take mineral oil not brake fluid. Simple drugstore mineral oil will work fine. Hope that helps.
 
I'm sure what Kelly said about a new seal is what you are going to need to do, but on occasion I have seen enough dirt get in the MC to cause the seal to dislodge/leak and cause your problem. You may or may not be able to clean things up and make it work temporarily, but you still need a kit. If you really want to ride tomorrow, it's worth a try IMO.
Brian or Don at BMP (a sponsor) can fix you up with a kit. 503 585 1153.
 
Motosportz said:
First make sure the banjo bolt holding the hose to the master is tight and did not get knocked loose. If the oil is not coming from there and actually the master cylinder piston your going to need to take it apart and replace the seal. It is the same part as KTM uses so you might get one at a local KTM dealer. Also these take mineral oil not brake fluid. Simple drugstore mineral oil will work fine. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...


Thank you very much for the quick response. The bolt holding the line to the master cylinder is tight, the fluid is definitely coming from the rubber plunger. Is the seal just an o-ring or something specifically shaped? As for fluid, I found someone say that hydraulic jack fluid would work so I bought it but haven't used it.
 
Your fluid level is probably lower than you think and an air bubble entered the line, you need to fill the reservoir a little and bleed the bubble out. That's what happened to me.

I use baby oil, works fine, I have cleaned my OEM seals on the piston once and then replaced the piston and seals once and mine still leaks a bit. I won't buy another $50 piston and 2 rubber seals. I carry a small bottle of baby oil in my kit, and I always check the level before I head out. The seals are a very particular shape and you won't find them just anywhere.

HuskyClutchRebuild_zps253a5730.jpg
 
I'll add more and bleed the lines, it was a little low but some threads said that too much fluid was causing the blown seal and to siphon some out. Should I take the master cylinder apart and inspect it or just try the bleeding and see if that works?
 
I started using fork oil in my clutch MC (Brembo) when I had kept having trouble with it leaking down on a KTM 950 I had with around 20,000 miles on it. Good fork oil has additives that keep the rubber "puffed up" and super lubed. The clutch was smoother and didn't leak afterwards. I have been using it in hydraulic clutches ever since.
 
Rossim22 said:
Today I was riding on my '09 Husqvarna TE310 and I noticed that my clutch was engaging sooner than normal. Shortly after, I could pull in the clutch (w/ no pressure) while riding and I wasn't disengaging at all. Then the symptoms completely went away and I thought I dodged a bullet, only to lose all clutch control about 5 mins later. After an hour walk home I noticed that the master cylinder right by the lever has fluid all around. The reservoir is still almost full so the cylinder is just not building pressure.

Anyone have ideas on how to fix this? I'm looking to NOT order anything and be riding tomorrow afternoon. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Click to expand...

I have an 07 TE250 and had a weird clutch hydraulic problem also. The clutch lever would fade if I rode hard and used the clutch alot. If I quit using the clutch or let it sit everything would go back to normal. I had no leakage but replaced clutch hydralics anyway and still had the problem.

I also had installed an external crankcase filter quite a while back that when checked was partially plugged. I put it back stock ( vent into air boot). That helped because it took longer riding before the fade would start to happen. If your wondering how a crankcase vent could cause a clutch problem it actually creates a vacum inside your crankcase when plugged and riding which can cause clutch hydraulic problems on Huskys.

I finally checked the rod thet goes from the clutch slave cylinder to clutch through the case and found it was about 1/16 inch shorter than a new one. I replaced the rod and all is well now no matter how hard I ride or abuse the clutch.

The rod is easy to replace by simply removing the slave cylinder. Remove the rod and slide the new one in place and reinstall the slave cylinder.

This may or may not be your problem but it sure drove me crazy for a little while.
Bill35
 
Rossim22 said:
Today I was riding on my '09 Husqvarna TE310 and I noticed that my clutch was engaging sooner than normal. Shortly after, I could pull in the clutch (w/ no pressure) while riding and I wasn't disengaging at all. Then the symptoms completely went away and I thought I dodged a bullet, only to lose all clutch control about 5 mins later. After an hour walk home I noticed that the master cylinder right by the lever has fluid all around. The reservoir is still almost full so the cylinder is just not building pressure.

Anyone have ideas on how to fix this? I'm looking to NOT order anything and be riding tomorrow afternoon. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Click to expand...
Lotsa good tips from guys here- I'll share my experience too.

I had the same issues- I bought a rebuild kit as pictured above for the 9.5 Magura. Things were good for a short while and it came back. Very small amounts of fluid leaking around the lever at the lever pivot point and where the piston is held by the c-clip, inconsistent lever feel, and when it would engage and disengage at varied lengths of pull (annoying in technical single track/ cause you loose focus) . Then it would go back to normal for a short time. Bleeding would give temporary relief. Fluid never got too low from the minute leakage- but small leak=air, and any air is too much air.

When I initially rebuild it- I did not inspect the bore of the Master (where you instal the rebuilt piston). The second time I recalled that some members had mentioned that the bore had gotten messed up and discussed the anodizing had flaked. So I thought I should inspect. I took the master completely off the bike and disconnected it from the hose. I thoroughly cleaned and inspected (Q-tips and brake cleaner). What I saw was lengthwise streaks inside the bore. They were not indentations or scratches however- it was like a residue had been rubbed down the length of the bored and that residue was hardened. I scraped at it with a toothpick- and it barely made a difference. NOW I didn't have anything to loose- I didn't know if this stuff was what was "left" of an anodized coating (that had been mentioned) or that it was something foreign- regardless 'it" was causing the seals to have a poor seal and was allowing air in and fluid out with each pull (very small amounts) BUT the worst place to have air is at the piston. I used a .38 caliber handgun bore brush and cleaned the cylinder of the Master C. I also used some 1500 grit paper. I was able to get a smooth bore again. Put everything back together an bled the system. I did this about 2 months ago- and the system has held fluid and kept pressure, BUT, I have not started the bike or road it (winter storage) I have pulled the clutch in about 400 times though and have not shown any leakage on the paper towel I have wrapped around it. Though, I won't be 100% confident till I put in a few hours of use.If the problem continues- I may need a new Master Cylinder. I was going to hold off on my report of this till I got a weekend in of riding to verify- but thought I should Chime in.

So your case sounds like mine- its a leak at the master cyl. piston. You may get by with a new piston and seals $30-40. But definitely clean (degrease) and inspect the bore before you instal the new piston. Assess, if you need to go farther (as I did) after your inspection.
:thumbsup:
 
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