• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Need Expert Help/ High Idle When Using The Clutch

cobb92

cobb92

Husqvarna
AA Class
I need some advice on the cause of the high idle on my 2010 TE 450. Please help. I just "powered up" my Husky after riding a little over 500 miles on her in stock form. After the "power up" was successfully completed, I rode the bike and put a few more miles on her with no issue. Over the weekend, I rode a 60-mile loop, cruzing up a mountain road with no problem. Coming down the road, I noticed when engaging the clutch the RPM's would not drop down to idle speeds. I noticed this more as I rode closer to home. The idle is set around 1800-2000 when I installed the power up (no problems). With the new problem, the idle takes 2 to 3 seconds to drop back down and some times stays at a higher RPM (2300-2500). The bike does this when it is warm. I checked the throttle cables and they are good. I am scared that I have an air leak somewhere. I never had an idle issue on this bike and I have not rode the bike hard at this point. Any ideas why the idle is doing this?
 
Was the octopus removed? If so, check this vacuum fitting first. make sure it's been plugged up tight with no leaking (pic courtesy of danbartol)

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Yeah, I did plug that vacuum fitting, but I will check to see if the rubber fitting has a tear or hole in it. Do you have any other ideas why this is maybe happening if it is not the vacuum fitting? The idle will not rev down to a normal rpm (1800-1900) when engaging the clutch. It stays around 2300 rpms when it warms up. This is frustrating. I really hope it is the vacuum fitting. Thanks OldHuskyRider.
 
Cobb you might want to post this in the EFI section, it sounds like you may need the baseline settings redone by the dealer. Assuming the TE450 is EFI??
 
Thanks for the advice Moto66. Today I rechecked the push-pull throttle cables and the vacuum fitting. I am currently re-adjusting the idle screw on the EFI to a lower or normal 1700 to 1800 rpm range (2 1/2 turns C.C). It performed well after the adjustment, but I am wondering why I needed to adjust the idle. At this point, I do believe the CPU may be to blame, or at least I hope this is the problem.
 
couple things-
Vacume leak is the first place to look. That nipple on the throttle body that hooked to the Charcoal canister.. should be taken out and replaced with the correct bolt thread and length. Because that little rubber vacume plug is way to exposed for how much it can effect things- its a convenient temporary solution. Just replace it with a bolt and have complete confidence. Verify your intake boots are secured properly and that your manifold pressure hose is connected properly to the intake. you can use wd40 or something and spray down the area- if the idle changes you have a leak.

Settings and adjustments.
the Idle control knob/ Air bypass knob when in power up mode- and when at certain levels of tune- effect the idle or the idle fuel mixture more than the other. It can and will effect a 'hanging idle condition' in some circumstances depending on how rich/lean your CO settings are coupled with your TPS setting and your WOT setting.
Now that you have turned the idle screw and found positive results- you may have needed that adjustment to be made like you did- when it was at full opperating temp.

Just keep paying attention- and concider going to a reputable husky tuner for a basic set up to verify settings. But I'd wait till its broken in a little more if its running well now. I do not belive you have a CPU problem- just setting up the bike yet and getting familiar with the bike. Have fun
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Thank you HUSKYnXJnWY! I took Moto66's advice and found a post in the EFI section, so please keep an eye out for me there.

I hope you are correct that this is just some fine-tuning. So far the idle adjustment that I made seems to be working. I will check the air boot, the manifold pressure hose, and use the correct bolt to replace the nipple (George's advice too). I am still riding the bike as if I the throttle stop was not removed, but when am I done with the break in, 650, 700, 800 miles? Anyway, I plan on replacing the stock exhaust with an after market later on and will have the settings adjusted then if everything works out in the meantime.

Thanks for the settings and adjustment paragraph, I found it very helpful.

Thanks HUSKYnXJnWY, Moto66, and OlderHuskyRider for helping a new Husky rider out.
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P.S. What is up with the engine breaking? It is 2011 for crying out loud!
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Do you mean engine braking?

You have it and you don't like it?

Some people say it's a feature and not a flaw.
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cobb92 said:
Thank you HUSKYnXJnWY! I took Moto66's advice and found a post in the EFI section, so please keep an eye out for me there.

I hope you are correct that this is just some fine-tuning. So far the idle adjustment that I made seems to be working. I will check the air boot, the manifold pressure hose, and use the correct bolt to replace the nipple (George's advice too). I am still riding the bike as if I the throttle stop was not removed, but when am I done with the break in, 650, 700, 800 miles? Anyway, I plan on replacing the stock exhaust with an after market later on and will have the settings adjusted then if everything works out in the meantime.

Thanks for the settings and adjustment paragraph, I found it very helpful.

Thanks HUSKYnXJnWY, Moto66, and OlderHuskyRider for helping a new Husky rider out.:thumbsup:

P.S. What is up with the engine breaking? It is 2011 for crying out loud!:excuseme:
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No problem cobb. There are some very knowledgable and helpful people here. I gave my SMR motor 500 miles then did the PU mods and started to push it on a bit. You can really feel when it's starting to change. On the SMR the twin exhausts are very restrictive so I would set some ££'s aside for a decent pipe at some point. Glad you got a fix
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Glangston, thanks for the grammar correction. I am not a big fan of engine braking, I like to depend on my front and rear breaks to slow or stop me. I actually shattered my clavicle on my friends brand new YZF (one of the last models that had engine braking) on a fast flat turn on a motocross track. The engine braking caused the front end to wash out and ever since I have not enjoyed it. Speaking of engine braking, I have noticed since I powered up the bike, the engine braking went from barely noticeable to 'drop the front end and squash my marbles' hard. Is this normal?
I have many dumb questions, but don't blame me, I am new to Husky and working the bugs out.
 
cobb92 said:
Glangston, thanks for the grammar correction. I am not a big fan of engine braking, I like to depend on my front and rear breaks to slow or stop me. I actually shattered my clavicle on my friends brand new YZF (one of the last models that had engine braking) on a fast flat turn on a motocross track. The engine braking caused the front end to wash out and ever since I have not enjoyed it. Speaking of engine braking, I have noticed since I powered up the bike, the engine braking went from barely noticeable to 'drop the front end and squash my marbles' hard. Is this normal?
I have many dumb questions, but don't blame me, I am new to Husky and working the bugs out.
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Ha ha I'm still doing the same a year on! Ask away amigos.
 
FWIW, I had to turn my idle down once I powered up my 630. I think that's a direct result of the richer fuel mixture that the kit provides.
 
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