• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

need a bit of throttle to start

I don’t use the air bypass on starts (only after it has started to warm it up/ idles faster)- I don’t ever turn the throttle when starting- I don’t multi-prime the system. Bike starts perfect cold or hot. We have the same system and conditions at play- the only difference can be state of maintenance/ adjustment and condition.

Opening the air bypass- is NOT like opening your throttle- sure they both allow more air BUT your Throttle has a TPS and opening it should throw everything off (mixture and spark advance) when trying to start your bike (that’s the trick the bypass attempts to make on the system- more air without signaling tps movement. IF your bike starts better with the throttle open any amount- YOUR TPS IS SET WRONG. Get it adjusted. My buddy was having a hard time starting his bike I looked at him and saw his hand twisting the throttle- SLAPPED his hand- and pushed his button and the bike started. He said its habit from carbs.

You should cycle your pump to ensure you have pressure (happens every time you go to start your bike like it or not)- beyond that- your just ensuring you have the required pressure. There’s no magic- unless you have a leak (fuel pumpà fuel filteràhoseàinjector)

Something is not right if you have to do these little strange things- whether it be settings, adjustments, or you thinking to much. Check your TPS, Fuel pump and connections, and Valve lash just to eliminate it as a possibility.
 
Did you check your valve clearance lately? Out of spec clearance can cause hard starting.

i haven't done the valve clearances yet. will do soon though. bike's got 4500 miles on it which i've done a 1000 or so of. not sure what the interval for the valves is, maybe 6000? will check em soon as a matter of course.

it's not a consistent problem which leads me to think it may be humidity related as temperature has varied on all occasions. in my case at least, if there were tps issues or anything else i'd expect it to be consistent.
 
I don’t use the air bypass on starts (only after it has started to warm it up/ idles faster)- I don’t ever turn the throttle when starting- I don’t multi-prime the system. Bike starts perfect cold or hot. We have the same system and conditions at play- the only difference can be state of maintenance/ adjustment and condition.

Opening the air bypass- is NOT like opening your throttle- sure they both allow more air BUT your Throttle has a TPS and opening it should throw everything off (mixture and spark advance) when trying to start your bike (that’s the trick the bypass attempts to make on the system- more air without signaling tps movement. IF your bike starts better with the throttle open any amount- YOUR TPS IS SET WRONG. Get it adjusted. My buddy was having a hard time starting his bike I looked at him and saw his hand twisting the throttle- SLAPPED his hand- and pushed his button and the bike started. He said its habit from carbs.

You should cycle your pump to ensure you have pressure (happens every time you go to start your bike like it or not)- beyond that- your just ensuring you have the required pressure. There’s no magic- unless you have a leak (fuel pumpà fuel filteràhoseàinjector)

Something is not right if you have to do these little strange things- whether it be settings, adjustments, or you thinking to much. Check your TPS, Fuel pump and connections, and Valve lash just to eliminate it as a possibility.
HUSKYnXJnWI,
Very good point about the TPS and its relevance in this discussion. I completely forgot about that...thanks for pointing it out. Husky engineers installed an enricher lever and cable that is completely independent of the twist throttle and cable. They operate alone and have different purposes.
 
I don’t use the air bypass on starts (only after it has started to warm it up/ idles faster)- I don’t ever turn the throttle when starting- I don’t multi-prime the system. Bike starts perfect cold or hot. We have the same system and conditions at play- the only difference can be state of maintenance/ adjustment and condition.

Opening the air bypass- is NOT like opening your throttle- sure they both allow more air BUT your Throttle has a TPS and opening it should throw everything off (mixture and spark advance) when trying to start your bike (that’s the trick the bypass attempts to make on the system- more air without signaling tps movement. IF your bike starts better with the throttle open any amount- YOUR TPS IS SET WRONG. Get it adjusted. My buddy was having a hard time starting his bike I looked at him and saw his hand twisting the throttle- SLAPPED his hand- and pushed his button and the bike started. He said its habit from carbs.

You should cycle your pump to ensure you have pressure (happens every time you go to start your bike like it or not)- beyond that- your just ensuring you have the required pressure. There’s no magic- unless you have a leak (fuel pumpà fuel filteràhoseàinjector)

Something is not right if you have to do these little strange things- whether it be settings, adjustments, or you thinking to much. Check your TPS, Fuel pump and connections, and Valve lash just to eliminate it as a possibility.

I think you have a very unique bike if you can start it cold with out using the "enricher" lever! I don't think I have a problem with my TPS. I never have had any starting issues and the only reason I commented on this thread is, I've noticed that cycling the kill switch 2x will make the bike crank 30% - 40% less before it starts. Look at it like a compressor, it shuts of at 120 psi and kicks on when it drops down to 90psi. The fuel system is pressurized and hitting the kill switch 2x might build a c hair more pressure. I have know idea what kinda pressure the fuel system has, but let's say 10 - 12psi is what it needs to shut the primmer off. 10psi is what you get with hitting it once and twice will bring it to 12psi. I'm just taking a stab in the dark with all this, but it seems to me that it could make a difference. I know for myself that if I prim it 2x it will start with one or two less cranks and if this method helps someone that has a hard starter, then that's cool. I also agree with you that maintaining your bike is A#1 and having everything in spec is necessary. The 2x "trick" is just a Band-Aid until you can address the real issue. If any or all of the above is wrong, please forgive me. I'm just stating a little something I've noticed that might have helped the OP.
 
So today was start cold NOT using the 2x cycling the kill switch method. The result was it cranked 4 times started and stalled and stared instantly after hitting the start button again. I will try tonight when bike is cold and post the results.

Today was cold start using the 2x cycling the kill switch aka priming it twice. The result was 3 cranks and started. This is not the answer to the OP's problem, but it is something I have noticed that helps with a cold start. This is on a well maintained 2009 TE 610, so if you have something other than that I'm not sure what it will do, but I do know it starts my bike 30%-40% faster doing this. Hope this might help someone! Thump!
 
Does the 610 have a fast-idle lever like the 630? I didn't realize what it was for the first month or so since it looks like a hot-start lever, and the bike wouldn't start without it unless you gave it a little throttle help. They're kinda cold blooded.
What's the fast idle lever? Is it the lever above the clutch lever? I was told it was a compression release lever to help when it's hot to strat up.
 
O
What's the fast idle lever? Is it the lever above the clutch lever? I was told it was a compression release lever to help when it's hot to strat up.

Omg..who told u that?.. its a "fast idle" for during cold starts to raise the idle... 610/630s have auto decomps built into the head..
 
O

Omg..who told u that?.. its a "fast idle" for during cold starts to raise the idle... 610/630s have auto decomps built into the head..
The salesman, I never needed to check it out. Mine starts cold without it all the time. But I have used it on the trails if it stalled and seemed to help restrat fast. Always used it to restart when hot. Seemed correct, guess not. Thanks for the lesson everyone, I will try it when it's cold.
 
You should go back and punch your salesman in the face.. thats truely disgusting not knowing the first, very basic thing about the product you are selling. Wonder what other "knowledge" he passes on to help him make a sale..
 
You should go back and punch your salesman in the face.. thats truely disgusting not knowing the first, very basic thing about the product you are selling. Wonder what other "knowledge" he passes on to help him make a sale..
I hear ya bro
 
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