• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

need a bit of throttle to start

MotAd

Husqvarna
AA Class
it's on a fuel injected 610. tried a few different tricks all to no avail. hot, cold, wet or dry always seems to need a little blip of throttle as the starters turning. although the other day it did start up with just the button from cold.

is it a problem? i've heard things to do with throttle position sensors and all sorts but does it really matter? maybe i'll put a new spark plug in and see if that makes a difference...
 
Does the 610 have a fast-idle lever like the 630? I didn't realize what it was for the first month or so since it looks like a hot-start lever, and the bike wouldn't start without it unless you gave it a little throttle help. They're kinda cold blooded.
 
yep sure does. even at varying degrees of engagement it doesn't make a difference. although noticed this evening after the bike had been in the garage at work all day it started up on the button. must be humidity related as it's kept outside under covers overnight and in the morning is when it plays up :confused:
 
I've noticed on cold mornings that I need to give the throttle a little twist, even when using the cold start lever. It cranks a bit slow too with 20-50 oil, but I'm not changing that.
 
I find if it's cold I need to hit the red on/off button 2x with the key in the on position before I hit the start button. I guess it's just putting a little more fuel in the cylinder. Doing that and using the "lever" it will start 1st crank every time. I keep the bike on a battery tender which I'm sure helps things. BTW it's a 09 TE 610 w/ pipe and power up.
 
I wanted to add that I never have to use the throttle when I cycle the on/off button a couple of times. I also have the iridium sparkle plug, but not sure that made an difference in starting.
 
funnily enough it started with no throttle first time this morning! and it was raining really heavily! must be a temperature/humidity thing. i will try the start/stop switch next time it plays up though, could be a good tip :)

i looked in to an iridium plug but was advised not to due to an insulation issue or something :excuseme:
 
I have idle set to about 1750 hot. Cranks a bit when cold but always fires and starts. Clatters of course, 'till the oil pressure ticks up.
 
i would if i could remember! a guy at husky sport told me here in the uk. something to do with the 'p' and 'r' in the spark plug name referring to insulators or something and the iridium plug not having them. i don't know though, just repeating what he said. be interesting to know for sure...
 
I find if it's cold I need to hit the red on/off button 2x with the key in the on position before I hit the start button. I guess it's just putting a little more fuel in the cylinder. Doing that and using the "lever" it will start 1st crank every time. I keep the bike on a battery tender which I'm sure helps things. BTW it's a 09 TE 610 w/ pipe and power up.
1lunger,
I believe your theory of "putting a little more fuel in the cylinder" while you refer to "hitting the red on/off button 2x with the key in the on position" is incorrect. It's probably coincidental that cycling the key and or kill switch, then hearing the fuel pump build pressure, may confuse you. With that scenario there is no fuel being fed into the cylinder via the injector. I'm definitely no expert in the fuel injection field but can briefly explain my argument. Our bikes (late model EFI equipped TE610 & TE630) engine's have a single throttle body and single fuel injector. The injector is either fully open or fully closed, except for the brief moment when it actually opens and closes...while the engine is running. In other words, turning the key on and off cannot force fuel into the cylinder if everything is working properly.

The number of injectors per cylinder, their size and flow rate will directly affect an engine's performance. As CJBROWN stated, the bike will crank a bit and give an unmistakably recognizable engine noise until she warms up. My own 2011 TE630 will struggle a bit to start when it’s very cold outside but has not failed to do so. Husqvarna engineers had to do several things simultaneously while designing their EFI system. They needed to keep costs down, try and obtain adequate performance levels and stay within the emissions requirements for where the bikes would be sold. Essentially, they needed to keep everyone happy and compromise.

BTW, as discussed at length....on the entire internet....all EFI Husky's...and probably all OEM's, are notoriously lean from the factory due to EPA emissions requirements. Our bikes come equipped with an "enricher", "cold start lever" or "choke" to help the engine start when it's cold. I’ve heard numerous names for the little lever on the handlebar that is cable actuated and leads to the throttle body mechanism. I'll refer to it as an "enricher" for discussion purposes. I asked the expert James Dean from JD Jetting how the enricher lever works. James told me he thinks the enricher lever opens a venturi inside the throttle body that allows more air into the engine. This in turn fools the ECU into thinking there is a leaner condition (while engaged) and then feeds the engine an increased fuel delivery. It is just like slightly opening the throttle a bit while cranking the engine to start. It allows more air into the engine with the same results of more fuel delivery from the ECU. This is all based on a cold engine because once the engine is warm the enricher has no effect with regards to fuel delivery. It will simply raise the engine's idle, that's it. I say this so people don't zip tie the enricher lever to full engagement thinking they have cured the OEM's lean EFI condition. It would be nice though. :p

Maybe some engine experts can shed some light on what's happening with your bike specifically. Until then do whatever it takes to get her to fire up fast. The common goal is to get the engine started so we can ride. Hold your breath, stand on one foot, count to three...do what ever it takes!! :thumbsup:
 
yep sure does. even at varying degrees of engagement it doesn't make a difference. although noticed this evening after the bike had been in the garage at work all day it started up on the button. must be humidity related as it's kept outside under covers overnight and in the morning is when it plays up :confused:
Did you check your valve clearance lately? Out of spec clearance can cause hard starting.
 
Ok to all that, but I still think that the kill switch when you hit it, it pressureizes the system with fuel and a bit more helps on a cold start. I'm going to do a test tomorrow and the next day. Tomorrow I will try starting with only hitting the kill button once and the next day twice. Both will be in the cold garage and I will let you know if it helps the cold start. BTW. Did you type all that while you were texting me?? Talk about multi task'r!
 
Ok to all that, but I still think that the kill switch when you hit it, it pressureizes the system with fuel and a bit more helps on a cold start. I'm going to do a test tomorrow and the next day. Tomorrow I will try starting with only hitting the kill button once and the next day twice. Both will be in the cold garage and I will let you know if it helps the cold start. BTW. Did you type all that while you were texting me?? Talk about multi task'r!
Ha! Yes I can multitask like a mad man. Blackberry in one hand and typing on my pc's keyboard with the other. ;)
 
Ok to all that, but I still think that the kill switch when you hit it, it pressureizes the system with fuel and a bit more helps on a cold start. I'm going to do a test tomorrow and the next day. Tomorrow I will try starting with only hitting the kill button once and the next day twice. Both will be in the cold garage and I will let you know if it helps the cold start. BTW. Did you type all that while you were texting me?? Talk about multi task'r!

Anxious to hear the result. I have my doubts as I don't see how re-pressurizing the fuel system is going to give it any more pressure the second time, nor put fuel into the combustion chamber any faster.

My KTM250 has a fcr and I've never had a bike that starts like it does when it's hot. A tiny bump on the starter and it fires off and runs like a clock. Really nice on the trail.

For me the jury is still out on EFI. Nice? Yeah, but is it really any better than a well tuned carb? One carb negative is our crappy fuel these days will plug a pilot jet in about 3 weeks. :(
 
Anxious to hear the result. I have my doubts as I don't see how re-pressurizing the fuel system is going to give it any more pressure the second time, nor put fuel into the combustion chamber any faster.

Not sure how or why but the kill button on/off cycling does help. My bike isn't really hard to start cold but does take a little more now than it did in the summer. Using the kill button trick it definitely starts up faster when cold (approx 30% less cranking). I've never used throttle when starting and only use the cold start lever when below ~55 degrees.
For me the jury is still out on EFI. Nice? Yeah, but is it really any better than a well tuned carb? One carb negative is our crappy fuel these days will plug a pilot jet in about 3 weeks. :(

Also don't forget EFI's instant "rejetting" capability. A well tuned carb at sea level is no longer well tuned at 10,000 ft. EFI gives you auto adjustments on the fly. Can even compensate some for bad gas as well I think.

_
 
So today was start cold NOT using the 2x cycling the kill switch method. The result was it cranked 4 times started and stalled and stared instantly after hitting the start button again. I will try tonight when bike is cold and post the results.
 
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