Suamico SD
Husqvarna
AA Class
I picked up a used WR 250 this winter and I was determined to make it the woods bike I always wanted. I previously had a 150 and 200 neither with enough power to move my fat a** up steep hills without serious clutch work. I started with the usual personal things and protection with a few pieces of bling (7602 clutch cover with sight window, ARC levers) to make the bike look faster than i was/am. The one thing I wanted for my last bike a 2009 te310 was a rekluse clutch,which they never made 
. So when I found out not only did Rekulse make a clutch for me they also had it available in the exp model for only $379 I was all in. In fact i got 3 of them! (My WR 250, KTM 530 and my sons RMZ450). I installed the first one in my KTM 530 (hyd clutch) and it was in and done/adj in 15 min! It works great! Then I was ready to tackle the WR with a cable actuated clutch. I followed the directions to the letter and waited until the next moring to fire it up and try it out. I did the "free play gain" adj as stated in the directions and I was ready to ride. The only problem is it only worked like a regular clutch (stalling with clutch out and stopped). So I went back in and took it apart thinking I missed something, however it was all exactly by the book. Again I tried, same result. So it occured to me that I need to adj the rod and throw out bearing to get more throw, of course I had been drinking Budweisers by this point. This is not the right answer! it now would drive forward even with the clutch pulled all the way in (weird and Scary!) so I took it all apart again, set everything back to stock and tried again. Now I was back to the same as a regualr clutch complete with stalled engine. A call to Rekluse made all the difference! I talked to Joe in Customer service and he helped me troubleshoot it until we got it dialed in. THANK YOU JOE!
Alright so here is the set up secret,
1) Install as the direction tell you completely.
2) Use the inline cable adjuster (Not the barrel lever adj) to take all free play (plus some) out of the cable. Were talking alot of cable tension here!
3) Start the bike and put it in gear, with your hand on the front brake release the clutch, if the motor starts dying add more tension to the cable.
4) Once you can keep the bike idleing in place with the clutch out your ready to recheck your free play adj.
5) Remember you need a bit of pressure on the lever to get the adj right. Also don't forget free play adj is done in Neutral everything else in gear.
It rides great and being able to focus on the obstacle or turn is awesome. It kind of reminds me of riding my trials bike where you never worry about stalling. Yet you can dial the power on or feather the clutch if you forget you don't need it. Lastly the clutch pull feels about the same maybe 10% harder than stock.
I hope this helps someone.
. So when I found out not only did Rekulse make a clutch for me they also had it available in the exp model for only $379 I was all in. In fact i got 3 of them! (My WR 250, KTM 530 and my sons RMZ450). I installed the first one in my KTM 530 (hyd clutch) and it was in and done/adj in 15 min! It works great! Then I was ready to tackle the WR with a cable actuated clutch. I followed the directions to the letter and waited until the next moring to fire it up and try it out. I did the "free play gain" adj as stated in the directions and I was ready to ride. The only problem is it only worked like a regular clutch (stalling with clutch out and stopped). So I went back in and took it apart thinking I missed something, however it was all exactly by the book. Again I tried, same result. So it occured to me that I need to adj the rod and throw out bearing to get more throw, of course I had been drinking Budweisers by this point. This is not the right answer! it now would drive forward even with the clutch pulled all the way in (weird and Scary!) so I took it all apart again, set everything back to stock and tried again. Now I was back to the same as a regualr clutch complete with stalled engine. A call to Rekluse made all the difference! I talked to Joe in Customer service and he helped me troubleshoot it until we got it dialed in. THANK YOU JOE! Alright so here is the set up secret,
1) Install as the direction tell you completely.
2) Use the inline cable adjuster (Not the barrel lever adj) to take all free play (plus some) out of the cable. Were talking alot of cable tension here!
3) Start the bike and put it in gear, with your hand on the front brake release the clutch, if the motor starts dying add more tension to the cable.
4) Once you can keep the bike idleing in place with the clutch out your ready to recheck your free play adj.
5) Remember you need a bit of pressure on the lever to get the adj right. Also don't forget free play adj is done in Neutral everything else in gear.
It rides great and being able to focus on the obstacle or turn is awesome. It kind of reminds me of riding my trials bike where you never worry about stalling. Yet you can dial the power on or feather the clutch if you forget you don't need it. Lastly the clutch pull feels about the same maybe 10% harder than stock.
I hope this helps someone.
