• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

my many thanks for all your help.

Bigbill

Bigbill

Husqvarna
Pro Class
My '84 husqvarna 250wr is starting to run awesome. I installed new after market reeds, jetted it as advised here. I changed to a castor 2t blendezz oil mixed 32:1. This bike has come to life she runs awesome and rips when you wick it. She's alive now thanks for your tips.

They had the wrong jetting, the wrong mix ratio, the wrong 2t oil, they had everything inside the carb screwed up. Now it's a complete tear down, epoxy paint, New plastics, decals, lights and tires.
I'm going to register her for the street since the legal off road riding place is five minutes away. I can ride there and have fun. There's no feeling like riding. Well maybe... God bless, bigbill
 
amazing how far people can screw up a basically good bike isn't it:thinking:

but when I had hair, I was always right.....and the factory engineers were wrong.... :excuseme:
 
I took the carb apart and the limit spring on the needle and seat was missing besides the float level was off. The jets were too big, the orginal reed corners were worn off. I seen the spark plug cap moving as the engine ran, even the spark plug was loose.

This is my first used husqvarna that actually ran when I got it. He had the mix around 10:1 because it fogged up the area. Now she runs awesome. The compression is still hard to kick. Not like a normal 250 that I had seen. Now my question is with this engine having so much compression and since it's 1984 which is 30 years old with this new gas do you think I should do the crank seals over the winter? Do I trust the cylinder base gasket?
I had one 390cr run awesome till the rotted base gasket sucked in. The engine Sat flooded for a longtime till I got it. I feel the 84/250 is running perfect so it scares me that something may go wrong because of its age.
It may just pay off to do the crank seals and gaskets if the piston looks good. Do I trust the old gaskets and seals.
 
if you have the cash to do it go for it..especially on air cooled ones everything is so simple. good time to inspect the gear on the back of the clutch basket, tranny, shift dogs, and replace that countershaft output bearing.
 
i just picked up a fairly complete and original 84 wr250 myself, tranny and crank look great, has stock bore. motor is locked up. previous owner tried to fire it up and it sucked rotted air filter, partially melted on one crank bearing and packed the crankcase..cylinder should be ok 1st over.
 
It will cost me less now to go completely through it so I know it's right. It's the age of the crank seals plus this new blend of gas there selling now. I don't want to wait and possibly hurt the piston/cylinder or crank.
She sounds perfect right now. I'm thinking under $200 and she's ready for another 30 years.
 
Do the seals Big fella, its the only "fail" item that age can affect. (other than the manifold, gaskets etc....:D )

" fine today:p , your spark plug a blowtorch tomorrow:eek: "

Not knowing if they will hang in there is like playing russian roulette with your 100 dollar bore, 500 dollar piston kit and 600 dollar connecting rod... you want to spin or will I???

cheers
 
Either pay a little now or pay a lot down the road and push it for miles out of the woods when it breaks down. Been there and done that before.
 
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