My Forks too high in the triples?

[Force10]

So I finally took my 05 TC 250 out on it's maiden flight after buying it on Craigslist two months ago! I had a no spark issue I finally got squared away. Anyway, love the bike but I need to work on the suspension a little bit. I was getting some head shake at speed and I went to adjust the clickers on the forks and noticed they are pushed up quite a bit in the trips:



I want to get the bike back to stock and start from there. Is the top line where it should be?
My fault for not noticing when I bought the bike.

Do I need to remove the front wheel and slide them down separate or can I just loosen the pinch bolts and move them together?

Thanks

 

[Big Timmy]

The first line down is a good point to start.
I would lower them 1 at a time with the front wheel removed.
Then adjust them individually until you can slide the axle right into the opposite side of the other leg with the least effort.
Then tighten the triple clamps.

 

[NCSteve]

+1 Also, find the torque values for those bolts! It's probably a lot less than you may expect. And maybe search here or google how to align the front fork.

 

[Force10]

Thanks guys.

Other bikes that I've had...they generally don't reccomend sliding the forks up and down past mfg specs to lower the bike. It should be professionally lowered to avoid drastic changes to handling.

This is my first Husky so I guess they are different. I'm really looking for which line they have it set up for from the factory that is supposed to be best for handling. There aren't many pics of my model out there but I found 2 that look like they are at the top line:

 

[Big Timmy]

That's correct and the reference lines are there for a reason.

Bringing them up into the upper clamp enough to expose the second line for instance will make the bike steer a bit quicker. This can help if you ride tight woods or a lot of slower speed single track.

The marks aren't really intended to be used to lower the bike. What it does do, is it steepens the fork angle. It doesn't take much to change the chassis geometry enough to feel the difference.

Going too far up into the triple clamps, or beyond these marks results in the geometry being changed enough that without lowering the rear to match it can make the bike become twitchy.

If you are trying to lower the bike because you are vertically challenged. Then have it done to both ends of the bike professionally.

 

[Force10]

That makes sense Timmy.

I think the previous owner lowered it for one of his kids. I don't see any lowering link on the rear so I want to get the bike back to normal. I'm 5'11" with a 32" inseam so I think I will be fine with everything set back to the proper height.

Just so I understand properly...if I put the forks all the way back to the top line (lengthening the forks) I would lose tighter steering but might gain stability at high speed...correct?

 

[2wheeler]

"Just so I understand properly...if I put the forks all the way back to the top line (lengthening the forks) I would lose tighter steering but might gain stability at high speed...correct? "

Yes, that is correct. Also, if the wheels are not balanced you may get some twitchiness. Spoke weights are available

 

[NCSteve]

Tire size, rear sprocket size and chain length also affect the wheelbase and therefore steering and stability.

 

[ghte]

At 5' 11" you may need bar risers as well.

 

[Force10]

Thanks for the tips guys!

I'm looking for the torque specs for the lower bolts on the triple. They are usually less than the uppers so they don't bind the tube and restrict movement inside. All I found was this:



Not sure why they use a division sign between the range. I would torque to 19.5 for the uppers...does that mean 16.6 for lower?

 

[Travis616]

I usually go 16ft/lbs on the top and 14ft/lbs on the bottom, never had an issue yet. The only issue I see is there is no reference to the lower bolts in that diagram, there are two per side hence the 'tighten four screws'

 

[Force10]

Yeah..I noticed it said "Steering head" just meaning the top four.

 

[ghte]

Travis is correct-go softer on the lower clamp-binding is a PITA.

 

[NCSteve]

I would go to the light side of those recommended torques and mark the bolts so you can see if they loosen. On the newer KYB bikes I'm doing 14 top and 10 lower as are quite a few others here.
Ask me how I know not to over tighten the axle pinch blots @ 8 is spec'd and I know use anti sieze.

 

[Johnrg]

My 310 came set up right at the 3rd line.

 

[R_Little]

I usually go 16ft/lbs on the top and 14ft/lbs on the bottom, never had an issue yet. The only issue I see is there is no reference to the lower bolts in that diagram, there are two per side hence the 'tighten four screws'

Correct, the lower bolts should be a little looser as they can over pinch the fork tubes.

As for the fork height, it's a complicated process. You have to set it along with the front and rear sag in order to get the the bike to turn for riding you do. Those year bikes did not like to turn and my 04 WR250 had to be run with very little static sag in the rear and the front end low like yours in order to get it to turn in NE tight woods.

OTOH, if you ride 60mph in the desert you don't want to do that. I remember those bikes being ridden with the front end low like that on my buddies bikes. Maybe not that low, but 2nd line at least.

Anyway, start by setting your rear spring to the correct weight to get 25-35mm static and 100-105mm race sag with you in attack position on the bike.

Then adjust fork height to get the bike to turn right. if it swings wide in corners "Plow", lower the front end. if it "tucks under" raise it.
Lastly, keep in mind that the fork and shock compression and rebound clickers affect it in much the same way. More rebound damping in the fork causes "tuck" more compression dampening causes "plow". The rear shock is inverse.

Search for Vinduro's suspension set up thread.

Good luck.

 

[Force10]

Good advice R_Littile...thanks!

Right now my race sag is 107mm...didn't check the static sag but I can tell the adjusters are pretty far down on the spring for pre-load...only a few threads visible below the collars.

I slid the forks back down the trips and noticed a couple of things. First, I don't think the previous owner owned a tape measure or a torque wrench. The forks didn't measure the same at the top (one higher than the other) and the pinch bolts seems like they were torqued way too tight. This explains the difficulty I had getting the axle out.

I went ahead and slid the forks down to just below the top mark...got them even and the axle went in pretty easily. I did the procedure to even things out by leaving the right side pinch bolts loose and spinning the wheel hard and using the front brake a few times to let it settle were it should be. I think I will be in better shape now than I was.

After compressing the forks a few times it seems the seals may be worn...there is a thin film of oil on the smooth legs. Not too bad...but enough to notice. I've spent $800 on the bike before I was able to ride it for the first time last weekend (new stator, tires, etc.) so the seals are going to have to wait a bit. I will pull the dust covers off and try the tear off trick and see if that helps. Having the forks skewed might have worn the bushings/seals though...might not be a dirt problem. No visible nicks or burrs on the tubes either.

It was kinda funny when I took the bike out for the first time last Saturday. The cold starting procedure for this bike according to the last owner and stuff I found online: Turn the fuel on...pull the choke out...two twists on the the throttle...push the start button. This works well and the bike fires right up. So on Sat. with the bike stone cold...I'm unloading it at the OHV park...as I was reaching for the tie down on the throttle side and my palm accidentally pressed the start button...VROOMM! it started right up...lol. No fuel...no choke, no twists on the throttle...just started right up after not being started for 12 hours. Apparently if you lean on this bike wrong...it starts!

I'm taking that as a good sign for the motor/carb being set up well. I tend to obsess on every little thing wrong with a bike but I'm going to have to let the seals go for a couple rides until I can recoup some money. I like to try and do as much as I can myself but I'm not touching the internals of a fork...outside my mechanical skills.

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[rancher1]

The 2005 models started super easy. I never had to use the hot start even after crashing. I never had to twist the throttle before starting either. I would love to find a nice 2005 TE 450.

 

[R_Little]

It is a nice bike and it looks like it has very little use on it.
Everyone i knew who owned them liked them.

Having the forks twisted in the clamps like that does wear the seals and bushings.
Frankly the 45mm forks on that bike are the weak link in an otherwise fine bike.
If you are going to send them out for service consider having them revalved as well.

The stock fork springs are good for a 200# rider. It sounds like you may need a stiffer shock spring if it is wound that tight.

 

[Force10]

The stock fork springs are good for a 200# rider. It sounds like you may need a stiffer shock spring if it is wound that tight.

I weigh 165lbs without gear...aren't most bikes able to handle that kind of weight with factory springs?