• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

My DIY EFI tweak

bbcmat;52439 said:
I followed up this tweak with a bunch of "cause and effect" Ibeat V2 testing in the weekend. The best setup for my bike is the TPS setup properly with Ibeat, and then the throttle plate closed WITHOUT UPDATING THE ECU to it's smallest position without binding in the throttle housing. (1/4 turn in from contact)

1) As I expected, my TPS setpoint and original multimeter readings where equal. (991mV). The original dealer setup of the bike was correct. This resulted in a wide-open throttle (WOT) position of 100.8%.

2) Closing the throttle plate via the throttle plate hard stop to values below the TPS setpoint slowed the idle speed, but did not change spark advance, throttle position %, fuel injection pulse width. This could be tracked using the log feature - dropping the throttle plate position to its lowest point during idle - then reviewing the log.

3) Accepting the tweaked throttle position (923mV) in software caused immediate flameout when the throttle was snapped open. Changes to the idle air bypass thumbscrew did not change this. Accepting progressively higher values reduced this characteristic until is disappeared at just below 991mv - :) .

4) A TPS value of 1011mV and optimum idle air bypass (100.2% WFO) lugged below 2200rpm better than 991mV (100.8% WFO) did AND lugged about as well as the bike did with the TPS tweak. The only downside was a 2050-2150 rpm idle.

5) The ONLY way I could optimize the idle air bypass thumbscrew for best lugging and off-idle throttle response - C01 fueling for best 0-20% power and smoothness - AND have an idle below 1900 - is to do the TPS tweak. Screw ended up at 2 5/8 turns from bottom.

6) The ONLY way I could get rid of the off-idle flatspot and between shift hugga- chugga (02 sensor in) was to complete the TPS tweak and have the idle air bypass at 1.5 turns. Everything else (including FB1/2/3 adjustments) could not get rid of it.

If I could get used to the high idle speed, and never used the 02 sensor - I would go back to 13/50 gearing and just do the standard WFO=100.2% TPS setup and optimize CO1 for tight bush and rock single track.

MAT
Click to expand...

I'm bringing this thread back from the dead to get an update on the "DIY EFI tweak". Is this info above the latest and greatest? I read it with interest but didn't understand it fully and haven't experimented any myself.

I do, however, now have an Innovate LC-1 AFR meter so I can watch the Air/Fuel ratio as I ride, and I have a PCIII so I can adjust fueling however I want. My '08 SMR510 runs well so I'm just playing. And I've noticed something related to this thread--there is a just-barely-off-idle horribly lean spot. It seems what is happening is the throttle valve opens off the hardstop but the TPS threshold is higher than that so the ECU doesn't add more fuel until the TPS setpoint is reached, and then it adds in more gas and you're back to normal operation. There is just that dead spot. (I do not have iBeat BTW.)

Before I do anything, I'd like to understand more about this process. What is the idle RPM screw actually doing? What is the "choke" actually doing? How do you make the TPS setpoint match the TPS value when things start moving? Same question if you don't have iBeat?
 
Right click on my user name - read all posts - all that info is in there EXCEPT the Power Commander interface issue.

I would not have two fuel control systems with 2 separate TPS zero points - hence the DIY tweak (IMO) cannot be used in your application.

MAT
 
I just did the tweak. Had .98v and 4.41 respectfully with 13.3 battery voltage, now its .942 and I forget what I have now at WOT. This plus the open vacuum line from the manifold should hopefully prove to be an improvement. Find out tomorrow.
 
A follow up to this DIY tweak. (on my 09 TE510)

I went through this exercise before I had access to Ibeat V2 - after using the software and gaining experience with it over all seasons and weather - here are some opinions.

1) the most stable tuneup has a TPS setup of 100.2% at full throttle and the idle position set to whatever postion achieves that number (my bike = 1016mV). DIY tweak not required.

2) the bike will hot idle at 1950-2050. That's the way it is. Techniques to lower the idle make the bike very sensitive to idle air bypass screw positions. I'm not fiddling with that as the air density changes morning to noon to night. I will turn it out to 4 turns when warming the bike up in freezing temperatures.
Overall - this has as much to do with the ignition timing curve as the fueling.

3) The idle air bypass should be used to set the idle air mixture - NOT the idle rpm. Mine runs best 2 3/4 turns out plus minus 1/2 turn depending on the day and the ride. Hot slow singletrack needs more air (turn screw in) Cold street riding needs less air. The most consistant way to set the position is to move it to optimize your hot start. The motor should immediately fire off the crank button and jump to idle rpm. If it struggles to start or slowly increases in rpm to idle - give it 1/8 - 1/4 turn in until it starts best. 90% of riders probably won't bother - it's effect is only in the first 5% or so of throttle. (off-idle transition). If it takes more than 1/2 turn then CO1 need to be reduced .3% or so.

4) When your tuneup is close - changes to the exhaust make a difference. Mine will "surge" around 28-3000 rpm if i remove the spark arrestor - perfect if I put it back. I can move the surge around with c01/co2 but it never disappears.

5) I set co1 lean enough to make it hesitate under snap off-idle throttle openings - then add .3% if dual purpose riding or .8% if tight single track riding.

6) I set co2 just lean enough to remove the constant throttle surge in 6th gear at 3-3300rpm. This is my off-road setting. I'll lean that down 1 to 1.5% for street riding

7) I set co3 at 100%. I run this a tad rich - the excess fuel provides cooling and detontation resistance without much loss in power or range. I've give up the small % of power as insurance.

MAT
 
Awesome work and summary!

I think my experience and adjustments collaberate all points you made. 09TE450. I have NO flameouts, bogs, hesitations, I have had this bike in many different temps and elevations. I am running 100.2 and have CO1 at 98.5 CO2 at 99 and CO3 at 100 (from memory). I have a quieter exhaust incert I modded so that is also a factor efecting my CO settings. With the stock Spark arrestor (US) I can run richer settings. Like you I ignore idle rpms and focus on mixture- I think I am idling at 2000 or so...

Thanks BBCMat for all your posts!
 
Wish there were pics of the throttle block off adjustment area... where that allen has to be adjusted
 
Where are you guys without i beat getting the voltage read outs from on the bike? Which wires do i need to tap into with my voltage meter?
 
B_M_F said:
Where are you guys without i beat getting the voltage read outs from on the bike? Which wires do i need to tap into with my voltage meter?
Click to expand...

posted earlier in thread-

bbcmat said:
Measuring the TPS voltage is not difficult - but you do need a very accurate electrical meter (likely digital).

Get two very small pins (I raided my wife's sewing stash), and carefully slide them under the rubber seals in the base of the TPS connector until they stop. Of the 4 wires on the connector - do this to the black one, and to the "orange with black stripe".

Turn the ignition on - do not start bike - and measure the voltage across the two pins. It is slightly more accurate if you wait a couple of minutes since the battery voltage will settle.

With no throttle applied = this is your idle set point voltage.
With full throttle applied = this is your full throttle set point voltage.

Now you can try whatever you want on the idle hard stop - and you can easily go back to the "before" position. My bike REALLY didn't like having the idle stop set "more open" than the IBeat calibration. I don't know if a mechanical reference point (ie 4 1/8 turns in from touching) is accurate enough to put you back EXACTLY where you started. .................

MAT
Click to expand...
 
when you start up the bike, does it start right up or cranks for a few seconds then starts? do you use the hot start lever at all? cold or hot starts?
 
Hi guys, new on this forum but have been watching carefully last few days all posts related to the husqy`s.
I have the 08 510 smr, had the usual popping/stalling/dying issues, nearly fixed that by doing the pwr up along with a full Arrow Ti system.
Now I have ordered the cable from Semco, I`ve got V2 software from your link and looking forward to adjust the TPS and CO ( as I believe that's needed to make it run perfect)

So, what I`m curious about if any of you know what are the CO setting for a pwr up 08 510?
And still not sure how its better to adjust the tps.. in the ibeat manual it says just to get a read of the mV with engine off and set it and that's it.

Thanks for your future replies.
 
jlk_250 said:
I'm bringing this thread back from the dead to get an update on the "DIY EFI tweak". Is this info above the latest and greatest? I read it with interest but didn't understand it fully and haven't experimented any myself.

I do, however, now have an Innovate LC-1 AFR meter so I can watch the Air/Fuel ratio as I ride, and I have a PCIII so I can adjust fueling however I want. My '08 SMR510 runs well so I'm just playing. And I've noticed something related to this thread--there is a just-barely-off-idle horribly lean spot. It seems what is happening is the throttle valve opens off the hardstop but the TPS threshold is higher than that so the ECU doesn't add more fuel until the TPS setpoint is reached, and then it adds in more gas and you're back to normal operation. There is just that dead spot. (I do not have iBeat BTW.)

Before I do anything, I'd like to understand more about this process. What is the idle RPM screw actually doing? What is the "choke" actually doing? How do you make the TPS setpoint match the TPS value when things start moving? Same question if you don't have iBeat?
Click to expand...

So, I have a similar situation. No iBeat yet. But a dealer who shall go unnamed did the PU kit. There's a hesitation that feels just like the accel pump is shot in a Keihin FCR carburetor. Which means, the engine needs a blast of fuel when the throttle is first cracked open off idle. Under load, even more. Without it, you get a hesitation. Same with this injected system and Mikuni throttle body. So, my theory is that the system isn't getting that just off idle because it's lean already and the added fuel for above-full-closed throttle is not yet coming. The TPS must be the catalyst to provide a burst of fuel from the injector when the throttle is first opened. But since it has no map yet, it gets nothing. Or very little. It causes the hesitation. So, the TPS has to be calibrated down further, so any above-full-closed whack on the throttle gets at least a small burst of fuel. I artificially induced this by turning in the idle air metering screw, which raised the rpm and put the mixture closer to the increase in fuel associated with the TPS showing an opening throttle. No change to the idle/butterfly hard stop. Just making the mixture acceptable. It raised my idle rpm from 1800 to between 1950 and 2000. But the hesitation is gone. I will have to adjust fuel ratios when I get the ibeat and cable setup. But it will likely allow me to lower the idle rpm without re-introducing that hesitation. That's my theory.
 
Hi, i have te 450 08. after adjusting the tps and the idle whit ibeat 2, what should i do? fix fb? I think I have the race map, (how can I see it with ibeat?} with Arrow exhaust without cat and without lambda. Thanks
 
The 'race map' will be selected when the resistor is put in place of the lambda. You can mess about with the fuel using the CO settings - either trial and error or get it on a dyno.
 
Co? I connectes the lambda and regulate fb1 to 108. Than remove lambda and connect the resistor but with poor results. what base can i start from? throtte at 100.2% and air 3 laps less from all screwed? thanks
 
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