• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

My '11 TE310 decided it wanted an oil change

What went wrong with this set up?The engine can breath and the oil can return when the engine is off. I am keen to try and help solve this problem as when I ride rocky river beds or hill climbs the thought of the return pipe dislodging or leaking is on my mind.
 
I like the external oil line :thumbsup: It could be protected is all. Every one of my inline 4s had oil galleys up the side of the cylinders and always ended up with head gasket oil leaks in time. Was a PIA. At least Kawasaki started to put an o-ring in there too.
 
Tinken said:
We don't sell the filters but you can get one here for $19.99:
http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/PC-Racing-FLO-Drop-In-Stainless-Steel-Oil-Filter-P-p/4057725.htm
Click to expand...


The filter looks good, but I'm not very impressed with Powersports Superstore. Their shipping and order processing are terrible.

I ordered a filter. It was shipped in a bag. It arrived, crushed, in the shape of a parallelogram. :eek:

filter.jpg


After sending a photo to them (they requested) they sent me a shipping label (pre-paid). I put a note in the pkg indicating I wanted a replacement shipped… IN A BOX.

It took 2 weeks to get from San Jose to Southern California (normal time = 1 day). And then PayPal sends me an email that they gave me a total refund. :excuseme:
 
Have a second SS filter coming from that cheapo vendor for quick changes. After a change to Mobil 1 0W-40 with the SS filter I noted faster idle and backed off 2 clicks. Have to assume less pump strain and more flow at startup between the filter and oil viscosity. Maybe Tinken was right :eek:
 
A bunch of local folks have tried to steer me away from the SS filters. And I have to say that more flow generally means less filtration, so I would be concerned about the validity of it's filtration claims. Some said that they're a pain in the rear to clean. For $20, I figure it's worth a shot.
 
mnb said:
A bunch of local folks have tried to steer me away from the SS filters. And I have to say that more flow generally means less filtration, so I would be concerned about the validity of it's filtration claims. Some said that they're a pain in the rear to clean. For $20, I figure it's worth a shot.
Click to expand...

I've used SS filters many hrs on 2 different bikes. For cleaning, I buy a el-cheapo can of the WD40 copycat stuff. Their cans are usually under very high pressure for whatever reason ... I attach the little red line to the can and spray away, then let it dry ...

One of the things I've noticed when changing the oil in my 010 TC250, (xlite engine) is that that filter is almost perfectly clean. Just some small stuff trapped in a few places only ...
 
So much debate on filters. Then again there is debate on KTM. vs Husky.... or there was :cool: I listen to as much as I can and make a call. If my oil consumption goes up and note some wear after a teardown I could always go back to HiFlo. I have to consider opinions of those with the most experience with the Husky 310 engine. With spares in house (air/oil filters) that can be recycled/reused, my life is that much easier.
 
Changed out my oil today after some hard desert miles. Wasn't hard to clean, sprayed it out well with carburetor cleaner (with red straw), then washed with hot soapy water. Rinsed and dried with compressed air.

The distances between the fibers in paper filters are not consistent. In order to make sure that they filter to an acceptable level, many layers must be matted together, like those in the Hiflo filter. They will still pass some sand through them, but most gets trapped on multiple passes. This creates considerable flow friction.

It has been our experience that most motorcycle engines burn up from flow restrictions long before they ever wear out. This is especially true with the xlite engines which have known rod bearing failures due to low oil flow.

Typical hp gain from 0W40 is 2hp, it doesn't surprise me that you would have to turn down your idle. When racing the 310's, we used an extra wide Suzuki Eaton pump piston in order to increase oil flow. It's not oil viscosity which determines protection, it's flow.
 
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