My '11 TE310 decided it wanted an oil change

[Johnrg]

Should the hose/clamp on the end of the drain club be able to be rotated when tightened? Mine moves and that's not making me warm and fuzzy.

I inspected the hose and it looked good, so she's back together, but I'm using. Storage unit as a garage and dang if I don't have a filter here yet (soon to be resolved). I'll put some oil in and see if it doesn't pour right out.

You may want to replace that hose clamp. There is a point when they get overtightened and will deform (screw spins) and not tighten further, especially if it's working on braided ss. You could always add a zip tie to the rubber end for added security.

 

[reveille]

It will be fine. The hose is just rubber with a plastic mesh around it, not stainless braided.

 

[mnb]

The sheath is entirely separate (diff part #) and doesn't cover the entire length of the hose. It appears to be there as heat protection.

 

[mnb]

It turns out the hose grew a hole. I sliced it off and pulled on the hose to get as much slack back down low to make up for what I'd chopped off, but it was a bear getting thing's installed again.

The clamp doesn't spin any more. I tried to heat seal the fringe on the sheath, but that didn't work very well. Due to the installation problems, the sheath is not underneath the pipe clamp. I'm fine with that. I doubt it'll be an issue.



I put oil in and it held fine. The next day I loaded it up and went to Hollister Hills. I should have fired the bike up at the garage first. It leaked, but not from the repair, from the oil filter cover. I hand tightened the bolts and then used a wrench to lightly tighten them. If the O-Ring under the cover was of adequate height, it would have been fine...

Tightening the bolts more doesn't give the sense they're tightening any. They feel like they're about to strip. These bolts have been touched 4 times, including installation at the factory. And I know the previous 3 times they were not over tightened (nor this time).

I put the bike on it's side on the ground (to prevent the oil from draining out) and removed the oil filter cover. Everything looked fine. I put the cover back on and tightened it 1/4-1/2 turn more than before. It still felt like they were about to strip. But it didn't leak over three loops. Or overnight. I'm afraid to test how far I can turn the bolts, but I'm not comfortable with their ability to fasted the cover at all.

But the bike is ridable, at least until they give or it's time for another oil change.

 

[Micfasto]

The o-ring on the filter cover should be replaced if it leaks. I have also had good luck with a little Three bond sealant on the o-ring groove (along with the old o-ring). I got about 4 or 5 filter changes on the o-ring.

 

[Tim Randall]

Bummer I'm thinking of changing the setup of the drain back hose and plugging it like some have done, maybe a clear hose so I can keep an eye on it during breaks while riding??

I purchased a couple of gaskets from Zipty for the oil filter cover and they work a treat don't have to tighten it much to prevent stripping the threads and have never had it leak, I have even reused the same gasket for 3 changes and still seals and looks in good condition, definatly worth the few $$

 

[Tinken]

During our business meeting yesterday, Ty and I decided to push forward and fix the oil return on the 250/310's. Should have a solution out in a couple of weeks.

 

[reveille]

During our business meeting yesterday, Ty and I decided to push forward and fix the oil return on the 250/310's. Should have a solution out in a couple of weeks.

Nice! Subscribed

 

[Micfasto]

During our business meeting yesterday, Ty and I decided to push forward and fix the oil return on the 250/310's. Should have a solution out in a couple of weeks.

That is good to hear. Also do you still make/sell the filter gaskets for the 310. I have not seen them on your web site in a long time.

 

[mnb]

During our business meeting yesterday, Ty and I decided to push forward and fix the oil return on the 250/310's. Should have a solution out in a couple of weeks.

Über like****************************************

I have to say, with the model being discontinued, one might expect new aftermarket support to draw looks of "you have to be kidding me" when mentioned. And yet ZipTy is stepping up. Thank you. I'm sure a more experienced mechanic might not have the issue I did or hate the design as much as I do, but I think lots of people will love an improvement to this mickey mouse set up.

Ya know, for such a great bike, they had to screw SOMETHING up, right? I mean, nothing's perfect. But it'll be one step close with the ZipTy fix.

 

[robertaccio]

good news, my use of the frame as reservior and the high vent to atmosphere works but......a vented but more closed loop would be nice.

 

[robertaccio]

for racing and for a bullet prooof set up this hose is a POS waiting to drain all the engine oil out from a loose clamp or a hose puncture etc etc. On my 2011 I eliminated itwith my own breather set up, but a better set up is really a good idea.
On my 2013 it still has the hose which I constantly inspect before every ride/preflight, my intake hose bung is blocked off and the intake vent hose is ported to atmosphere with a K&N breather filter, works but it can be alot more sano.
You guys have seen my layout on my TXC310R up in the ZipTy shop.

 

[Tim Randall]

Be shore to let us know of the fix Tinken ill be keen on one to show off here in Aussie land

 

[Railit]

Hi Tinken and others maybe I posted my idea in the wrong place, I would like to know if one used the head cover for the breather and the return. My thought was to T off the breather pipe and leave one as the breather and the bottom tank return to the T so the breather and return use the head cover outlet. Just a thought .

 

[Mike-AK]

Any idea when it will be available? Any pics of the prototype? Thanks.

 

[reveille]

He loves to tease us doesnt he...lol

 

[Tinken]

I will know more tomorrow when I get to the shop. Caselli memorial was on Friday which slowed our progress a day.

 

[Tinken]

Hi Tinken and others maybe I posted my idea in the wrong place, I would like to know if one used the head cover for the breather and the return. My thought was to T off the breather pipe and leave one as the breather and the bottom tank return to the T so the breather and return use the head cover outlet. Just a thought .

I believe Husky tried this on the TC's but with mixed results. I have not had luck with this type of setup.

 

[Phil Lamb]

"My thought was to T off the breather pipe"

That sounds like an elegant solution. But the "spooge" or whatever that is collecting in my plugged clear bypass line makes me think I do not want it returned to the engine. Perhaps the only reason to return it is in a racing/hard use application if enough oil is flung into the frame reservoir to compromise lubrication.

We don't know if the original designers were trying to relieve head pressure and/or actually return oil to the engine. Since the 2013 rerouted the return line, but retained it, I assume that oil return is important. So my plug the line approach concerns me.

 

[Tinken]

"My thought was to T off the breather pipe"

That sounds like an elegant solution. But the "spooge" or whatever that is collecting in my plugged clear bypass line makes me think I do not want it returned to the engine.

I would return it to the engine. In your particular case, I would wash out your reservoir with brake cleaner and add new hoses with the return mod.