My '11 TE310 decided it wanted an oil change

[mnb]

It's much easier to remove the oil line so you can get a box end wrench over the fitting to avoid stripping it off. AMHIK I can change the oil in no time now but the first time had me cussing a few times. If you follow the shop manual you will have a difficult time IMO

There's not a lot of room to work with the hose without using tools (needle nose, whatever) to handle the hose, which risks damaging it. However, I definitely see your point about stripping the bolt and removing the hose allows you to slip a closed wrench over it.

Husky added a sump plug on the 2013 x lite engines, so my schedule is:

I wish there was one on the 2011.

I also wish I could find that stupid hose's part # in the catalog…

 

[Tinken]

I have been considering using a stainless oil filter are these facts - runs cooler lasts longer?

One of the biggest failures we see with the 250/310 engine is the rod bearing failure. This is caused by insufficient flow and high oil temperatures. We have measured temperatures as high as 375°F (190°C). Increasing the oil viscosity only makes this problem worse.

We have a special mod where we cut the rod and bearings to allow more oil to pass through. This not only cools the bearing, but also cools the cylinder, piston and piston rod bearings as well. Rather than tearing your engine completely apart for this mod, there are other ways to increase your flow of oil to your bearing surfaces like utilizing thinner high quality synthetic oils like M1 0W40, Shell T6, Torco 5W40, etc. Another item which will increase flow is a stainless steel oil filter which will outflow most paper and fiber filters 7:1.



Here's some other facts:

• 3 Pleat welded seam, best for sealing and strongest
• Passes ASTMF316 Test for 35 Microns
• Certified "Bubble Point" testing on media
• Passes 24 hour chemical resistance test
• Able to withstand 600 degrees F.
• Used by the most factory backed riders
• Labeled "4-Stroke insurance" by MotoCross Action Magazine
• Rated "9" by Dirt Rider Magazine
• Given "Full Throttle" rating my Fast By Design

Superior Filtration:
Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth. Most good paper filters will pass particles in the 90 to 95 micron range, and some tested, as much as 300 microns. Sand is about 125 microns and a white blood cell approximately 25 microns. Stainless filters catch items down to 35 microns "absolute", which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. The pleat seam is welded, able to withstand up to 600 degrees, not glued, like paper filters.
What is a Micron?
A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter. That's about .00003937 inches. Fine sand can be as small as 62 microns thick. Stainless steel filters will not allow any particle over 35 microns to pass through the filter.
Cleanable and reusable:
Simply remove the filter, rinse in clean solvent and replace it, you're done. The filter can be cleaned with solvent, kerosene, aerosol carburetor cleaner, or any other degreasing agent, even common dish soap. You can even blow air through the filter from the inside out to remove any small particles or cleaning agent from the screen if you so desire.
Consistent flow under all conditions:
Stainless steel will stand up to the stress of heat, high pressure and physical handling much better than paper or brass. Stainless steel filters maintain consistent flow under all conditions including cold start ups and or under extreme heat. A one inch square of this micron filter material will flow 1.9 gallons of 90 weight oil per minute at only 1 psi pump pressure (70 degrees F). A typical filter size is 30 sq. in. which equals the flow of 57 gallons per minute. Standard paper filters do not flow well when the oil is cold, often causing the bypass valve to open allowing unfiltered oil to enter your engine.

Unaffected by Water, Heat and Pressure:
Stainless steel filters are capable of withstanding extremely high pressure and flow rates. They are also unaffected by Water, Heat and Pressure, unlike standard paper filter material which swells in the presence of water, closing off filter pores and reducing flow.


We don't sell the filters but you can get one here for $19.99:
http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/PC-Racing-FLO-Drop-In-Stainless-Steel-Oil-Filter-P-p/4057725.htm

 

[AndrewS]

snip...

I also wish I could find that stupid hose's part # in the catalog…

If it's the same hose that is used on the 2013s, the part number in the catalog is showing 8000 H5803.

 

[Phil Lamb]

mnb: Factory manuals are posted online. The 2011 310 blowby hose and sheath are pictured and labeled at pp.78-79. See following link: http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2011/2011_SPC_TC-TE-TXC_250-310.pdf
But any decent hardware store carries this type of tubing.

As a follow up to Tinken's comments, I am using the stainless oil filter and like it. Depending on oil, my 310 has significant clutch drag. Switching to Rotella T6 and then to Mobil 1 0w-40, there is little to no drag when engine is warm.

As follow up to Motosportz re cylindrical screen, after first oil change have not noticed anything in screen. First change, new bike, a very minor amount of something.

 

[Motosportz]

As follow up to Motosportz re cylindrical screen, after first oil change have not noticed anything in screen. First change, new bike, a very minor amount of something.

Every modern 4 stroke I have had with these screen filters have some assembly sealer in them the first oil change then perfectly clean for years after. I pull them and check them periodically but never find anything in there. Interestingly the Kymco motor (TE511) never has had anything at all on them and remain spotless.

 

[mnb]

mnb: Factory manuals are posted online. The 2011 310 blowby hose and sheath are pictured and labeled at pp.78-79. See following link: http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2011/2011_SPC_TC-TE-TXC_250-310.pdf
But any decent hardware store carries this type of tubing.

As a follow up to Tinken's comments, I am using the stainless oil filter and like it. Depending on oil, my 310 has significant clutch drag. Switching to Rotella T6 and then to Mobil 1 0w-40, there is little to no drag when engine is warm.

As follow up to Motosportz re cylindrical screen, after first oil change have not noticed anything in screen. First change, new bike, a very minor amount of something.

That 2011 TC-TE-TSC 250-310 SPC pdf is not the same as the one I had and the other one I just downloaded. The hose is clearly visible on this one on page 78-79 like you said. THANK YOU!!! One wonders wtf it isn't on the one I have...

I've been skeptical as to the filtering capabilities of a steel filter (small enough holes), but Tinkens post makes a great deal of sense and alleviates some of that fear. I'm probably going to upgrade. I'm all for a cooler running bike, especially when it has less than a quart of oil in it.

I thought the automotive Mobil 1 was a bad thing for wet clutch bikes? I use it on my BMW K1100, but it has a dry clutch. The friction additives in MOST automotive oil tear down the clutch material.

You practically have to remove the filter doing an oil change anyways, since you have to pull the drail plug. I figure… may as well. But my experience has been similar… a small bit of gasket sealer or something like that on it and that was it. Very clean.

 

[AndrewS]

mnb: Factory manuals are posted online. The 2011 310 blowby hose and sheath are pictured and labeled at pp.78-79. See following link: http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2011/2011_SPC_TC-TE-TXC_250-310.pdf
But any decent hardware store carries this type of tubing.

Interesting... I suspect mnb has the same 2011 parts catalog that I have, which doesn't list that part (or have the diagram), for some reason. It's actually missing diagrams/listings 19B, 19C, 19D that are present in the one to which you linked.

Regardless, the part number is the same as the 2013, 8000 H5803.

 

[Motosportz]

I thought the automotive Mobil 1 was a bad thing for wet clutch bikes? I use it on my BMW K1100, but it has a dry clutch. The friction additives in MOST automotive oil tear down the clutch material.

Some Mobile and other oils have friction modifiers which don't work with wet clutches but most offer the same product without.

Flip the oil container around and look at the back and find the identification label (Circle)...

If it has anything written in the bottom half of the circle DO NOT use.

I use the Mobile 1 European car oil which does not contain friction modifiers and the bottom half of the label is blank. Zero issues.

 

[mnb]

Interesting... I suspect mnb has the same 2011 parts catalog that I have, which doesn't list that part (or have the diagram), for some reason. It's actually missing diagrams/listings 19B, 19C, 19D that are present in the one to which you linked.

Regardless, the part number is the same as the 2013, 8000 H5803.

The bottom line on each page of my parts catalog says June 2010. The one linked here is January 2011.

Some Mobile and other oils have friction modifiers which don't work with wet clutches but most offer the same product without.

Flip the oil container around and look at the back and find the identification label (Circle)...

If it has anything written in the bottom half of the circle DO NOT use.

I use the Mobile 1 European car oil which does not contain friction modifiers and the bottom half of the label is blank. Zero issues.

Thanks! Great info. I've been searching around and between this and a couple other 310 oil threads I've found quite a bit of info.
I'm going to keep the stock hose setup, as much as I hate it, because that seems the best solution I can trust right now. I ordered some spare parts, so we're covered.

Time to pull the hose off and look at it to see if I can figure out why it spins. I'll trim the excess off that stupid sheath while I'm at it. Hopefully, I'll just need to snip off half an inch of the hose. It's a formed hose, so there's only so much trimming I can do.

This has brought to light that having a spare dirt bike would be nice. But dammit, I already own 5 bikes. I have the TE610, but it's a dual sport - a dirt bike is better on the trails.

Shit, I hate it when this kinda thing happens and I actually have money. There's a 2014 TE449 than is singing a siren song and I'm gettin a woodie. I've always been a fan of the CTS system and it would be nice to have a larger displacement dirt bike, but SIX bikes? The registration and insurance costs are getting steep… I could store one of the two dirt bikes with the 610 in my storage unit (aka my Garage)… Shut up you fool! Hold firm! Dammit...

 

[Tinken]

There's a 2014 TE449 than is singing a siren song and I'm gettin a woodie. Shut up you fool! Hold firm! Dammit...

Hahaha... I love the 449, it makes great power per cc ratio and is really well made.

 

[gergte310]

just ordered two stainless filters one for my sons honda 150r as well as my husky more flow cooler oil must be a good thing

 

[Motosportz]

This has brought to light that having a spare dirt bike would be nice.

Find a clean used husky 125.

 

[mnb]

much too tall and probably underpowered for a 280lb guy like me. I'm considering a TE449 to compliment the TE310.

 

[Tinken]

Might want to look into a TE511 if you can find one, +6.5 ftlbs of torque helps for us heavy guys.

 

[Phil Lamb]

Slight oil diversion.
Holy Smokes. Just spent some time over on "Bob is the oil guy" site, re both Mobil 1 0w-40 and coolant issues. You kids are really civilized. Go over there and look at arguments over what shears when (oil), green vs. pink or orange/yellow vs whatever (coolant) is as amusing as it is confusing. Tinken, you could find real entertainment there, and could take umbrage at some comments re your preferred oil. Those comments go beyond mere persiflage!

 

[Tinken]

I know, I have read some of the chatter there, full of internet experts. I like how Bob stold Alan's work for his own oil 101 school.

 

[joedirt]

I change the oil in my 310 after every race and lately I've been measuring how much comes out which is about 600ml.
I usually put in about 900ml. It definitely pushes some oil out of the vent hose which is now just run down in front of the engine and tied to the frame rails.
If I change to the stainless filter and use a lighter oil will that help with losing oil out of the vent hose?

 

[Tinken]

It should, I found that the 0W40 expands less. Do you have a breather tank in your frame?

 

[joedirt]

Yes, line out of the valve cover up to the frame then out of the frame down towards the ground.

 

[mnb]

Should the hose/clamp on the end of the drain club be able to be rotated when tightened? Mine moves and that's not making me warm and fuzzy.

I inspected the hose and it looked good, so she's back together, but I'm using. Storage unit as a garage and dang if I don't have a filter here yet (soon to be resolved). I'll put some oil in and see if it doesn't pour right out.