125-200cc MS-3 Metering rod lengths

[Motosportz]

I'm running a BPR9IEX it has a projected electrode.

I don't think there is anything wrong with that as it is in the right heat range. I think the idea is that little tip gets hotter and will not foul as EZ but should not be the cause of the issue.

 

[AUSKY]

I'm running a BPR9IEX it has a projected electrode.

The reason I'm running that one was the shop didn't have the BR9IEX

 

[AUSKY]

that's the confusing part to me, it sounds like you are right on to me. If a full turn is obviously so rich it will not even start I cant see how a 1/4 turn or even a half turn will be to lean. On my bike I can go 3/4 turns either way. It will run OK but show signs of lean or rich. 1/4th turn is hardly noticeable on my bike with our fuel. To me from half way across the world reading text it sounds like you are right on target.


I have several rods here I am more than happy to send you. Do you have just the MS-3? If so I have a 3-1 which is richer and 4-1 and 4-0. All of them are slightly richer on the bottom. The 4-0 will be a good bit richer. I also have longer PJ tubes to that adds more fuel earlier. I can send that too. I can also tell you how to modify your rod to be richer but there is no going back once you have done this.

PM me your address please.

No worries Kelly PM sent.

 

[johnnyboy]

On my home modified rod I never touched the part that is in use from closed to around 1/4 open. just richened the mid to top.
A lot of Lectron users say their bike will idle all day but in my case useing our UK fuel mine when warm dosnt like to idle for more than around 30 seconds before it starts to peter out through being a tad on the rich side, this dosnt worry me at all but if I go a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn leaner it will idle all day BUT I then get a tiny bit of detonation at the 1/8 throttle cruising speed on the roads as I stated in the previous post.
Our fuel is better than what the Aussies / Ausky has to contend with and I hope this may help in sorting his problem out, when useing a 38mm pwk on the 165 the only comparisons in jetting to the guys in the USA is the pilot the needle and main was well richer. 210 on the main and a seriously richly tapered needle (cant remember the lettering), Now this may seem well rich to the usa guys but it works for me any leaner and it detonates sometimes, there is NO loss of power with these settings and if anything makes more midrange power
My 165 now has 120 plus hours on it still with the supplied piston and ring, shows 180lbs on my compression tester but I did not measure when new
Must contact Walt to sort a new one sorted soon lol.

As a side note here in the UK the guys running KTM 150s all run mains in the 210 to 220 range and I bet thats way richer than the usa settings !!

 

[typeone]

Walt , I will mail that head back this week. Totally forgot until I was reading this. I changed to a lower compression head and .8 base gasket on my 165 , as it was pinging if it wasn't running race gas.

Ditto! Sorry, Walt, I will drop my hi-comp head in the mail today...

I did one last test on Sunday with lower comp head, MS-3 rod, 8 series plug and .8 gasket. Bike felt great. Went a little leaner on the rod yet again, good pull on gnarly hills, excellent gas milage. Still tuning the top end. I'm ~2 turns out on the PJ, 1 turn out on idle... I can measure the rod if anyone wants. I'm not sure where it's at after the last two runs.

 

[MotoMarc36]

Observations:

1. No mention made of float level. I assume it is adjustable on a lectron. Float level (fuel service level) can have a profound affect on low-throttle fuel delivery and could cause confusing inconsistencies when comparing to other carbs and only focusing on the more common tuning aspects. Check it before proceeding!

2. ALL carburetors operate on Bernoulli's principle!

3. Projected-insulator sparkplugs occupy more airspace in the combustion chamber and measurably affect cylinder pressures. I would avoid them unless recommended for use by the manufacturer, or your engine builder.

 

[Motosportz]

Nice points Marc, thanks.

Observations:

1. No mention made of float level. I assume it is adjustable on a lectron. Float level (fuel service level) can have a profound affect on low-throttle fuel delivery and could cause confusing inconsistencies when comparing to other carbs and only focusing on the more common tuning aspects. Check it before proceeding!

the Lectrons have a clear bowl and lines on the bowl to check height. Its a 2 second look at the bowl to see if it is good or not.

 

[AUSKY]

Observations:

1. No mention made of float level. I assume it is adjustable on a lectron. Float level (fuel service level) can have a profound affect on low-throttle fuel delivery and could cause confusing inconsistencies when comparing to other carbs and only focusing on the more common tuning aspects. Check it before proceeding!

2. ALL carburetors operate on Bernoulli's principle!

3. Projected-insulator sparkplugs occupy more airspace in the combustion chamber and measurably affect cylinder pressures. I would avoid them unless recommended for use by the manufacturer, or your engine builder.

Thanks Marc

1- The Fuel is level
2- True
3- Also true. I might get the right plug for it & make sure although it wasn't pinging.

 

[AUSKY]

Last night I thought I'd do some more investigation into the leaning issues I 'm having,

I checked the Crank seal and it showed no signs of leaks, tears or any damage, it even had the white grease from the factory still showing.
I undid the 4 screws that hold the air boot on and it fell off the bike and into my hand, the reed block also was just sitting there, no real bond/seal at all to the airboot, there is a gasket that has stuck to the cases, but not to the reeds. I looked the reed block over and it was fine, no damage, reeds not chipped, surfaces smooth & free from gouges or other marks, all was good.
I then had a look at the airboot and noticed that it is warped with a distorted square opening where it mates with the reed block. When I put the two together you can see about 1.5 mm gap around the reed block square opening. I compared it to another I had the difference was night & day.
I think I have found my problem.
Do you think it has deformed due to heat or due to manufacturing problems?

 

[wallybean]

Damn, that is bizarre. Pretty hard to get an intake that is pulling cool air that hot. The motor would have to be incredibly hot and shut down to do that. Maybe a result of your previous seizure? It also sounds like it was possibly not well sealed after the heating event. I don't think it would be a chemical reaction as these boots tend to be fairly chemically resistant. Maybe someone here has seen something similar. My guess is that it would take close to 450-500 degrees F to get that deformed. I also don't think that area could reach that temp without having all the coolant boiled out of the cases/cylinder.

 

[AUSKY]

Damn, that is bizarre. Pretty hard to get an intake that is pulling cool air that hot.

Especially when that face of the intake boot is up against the fibre reinforced plastic reed block that is perfectly normal.

 

[Motosportz]

Good find! I should have remembered the wr250/300 had some serious reed block / intake boot sealing issues I saw many posts about. I have not seen this on 125's but it is a very similar part. Obviously replace that and I'd put sealant on it too. Might have just found your issue.

 

[AUSKY]

Good find! I should have remembered the wr250/300 had some serious reed block / intake boot sealing issues I saw many posts about. I have not seen this on 125's but it is a very similar part. Obviously replace that and I'd put sealant on it too. Might have just found your issue.

I hope so Mate! I hope so...we will find out.
It makes sense!
What sealant would you use.?

 

[Motosportz]

What sealant would you use.?

I really like this stuff but not sure what you have over there. Any good oil/gas resistant silicone gasket maker should work fine.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...l-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail

 

[Motosportz]

Looking at your picks it seems the mating surface is somewhat flat. Have you set the whole thing on a flat plate or glass to see?

 

[wallybean]

How loose was it when you took it off? I wonder about the dreaded shrinkage.

 

[wallybean]

You can see the indent of the mating surface that probably happened when the melting event happened. If it wasn't re-tightened at that point the seal would certainly be suspect. Why would you re-tighten when you had no idea of the issue.

 

[Motosportz]

I cant really see an indent but it does look like the rubber has separated from the metal underneath and is warping into the hole distorting the whole thing. Makes me want to go rip mine off and seal it up.

 

[wallybean]

If you look at his first pic you can see it is indented ~.010-.015" that isn't there on the new one. You can also see the rubber separated that you are noticing. If it wasn't re-tightened and why would you if you didn't know there was a problem, after the melting event the seal had to be compromised.

 

[AUSKY]

Looking at your picks it seems the mating surface is somewhat flat. Have you set the whole thing on a flat plate or glass to see?