• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Mounting Fork Questions

turbo100

turbo100

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello,
my front fork needs to be installed att the bike after removal.
There are som indikation on the tubes that I am not sure how to understand.

xddwn6.jpg

Which should be aligned with the crown surface? - or is the hight of the fork another adjustmen point?
 
That is correct. The smaller the gap between the top of the fork and the "crown" the more stable the bike will on straights, but will turn slower in corners. The larger the gap the less stable it will be on straights but it will turn quicker. I believe the factory sets the second line down from the top to even with the crown. It's a compromise and depends on what type of riding you mostly do.

Beware! Do not just set them evenly. That will result in the fork and axle binding. You need to set the non brake side tube the way you want first and torq it down. Then tighten only one of the three bolts on the brake side tube just enough to hold it but loose enough to be able to slide it in the clamps. Then put the wheel axle through both fork legs (no tire yet). While rotating the axle, ever so slightly push the brake side tube up and down. Pushing it up too far you will feel the axle bind. Pushing it down too far you will feel the axle bind. You need to get the tube in the perfect position so the axle rotates the most freely. Then torq that tube as well and carry on with the rest of the installation.
 
Ok, thanks for very usable information!
As my track is qute tricky and I am a quite slow driver I will keep it as the picture.
Also I will install the "other" leg as described above!
Many thanks!
 
Hello again, is there any "rules" about mountig height you know about?
If I as a newbie rides a quite tight and rocky track, would I benefit from quicker stearing or should I go the other way - to get a more stable and calmer bike?
Suggestions welcome
 
I would go for quicker steering if it were me and the track is tight. Tighter track means lots of steering. For the MOST part, the more stability Relates to straight line riding. Ideally if you ride a tight technical track you'd want quicker steering and then to deal with any deflection from the rocks you get a steering stabilizer. Of Course that's all in a Perfect world.

I also think setting it on the second line down is a decent compromise of both.
 
Jason, big rap on the leg alignment. I have done it for years with the wheel in etc. Its harder and not the best. Your way sounds much better. never too old to learn huh.
Anyway cheers for the good idea.
 
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