• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Motoplat issue

J

Jerry700

Husqvarna
C Class
I have a 1983 430 wr with a motoplat ignition for the first 15 rotations of the flywheel i get a weak spark then nothing let it sit for a minute or two then the same
 
hi to europe !:)

supprime kill button !
look rust at ignition coil !
change spark plug !
change spark plug protector !
look key at flywell !
CONTROLE IGNITION COIL !
CONTROLE STATOR !
 
bobine11.jpgmotopl10.jpg

1 control ignition coil picture 1
2 control stator picture 2
cable blue and and frame =180/200 ohms =good
cable blue and black = 18/20 ohms !good !
 
This is after i had the stator rebuilt re-wound, new trigger coil, new wires and plug cap person who did the work said upper coil was good. Could not kick start it but jumped it it ran for about 2 minutes then fouled plug then very weak spark after with only a very small plug gap do i get a spark?
 
This is such a good forum.... Just when I thought I had a problem that nobody else had I find something very similar...

This is what happened to me the weekend when at Farleigh Castle....

Been having having a problem where the engine would just die.. I thought I had cured it but it raised it's ugly head again....

1. I put a brand new plug in for the weekend racing
2. Saturday practice - no issues started and ran sweet
3. Saturday first race - no issues (apart from me stalling it) ran sweet
4. Saturday second race - Started in the pit box ran for about 30 secs then died... could not bump start it either

Took the long walk back to my tent...

Found there was no spark at all now coming from the Motoplat unit. I then spent 2 and half hours changing the Motoplat for a SEM unit which I just happened to have with me. I don't think we had the timing quite right as it kicked back on everal occasions but it did run. Got ready for the last race and fired her up and just put on my helmet when it died again. This time after kicking and several short busrts of life the Kick start gave up so I decided that I would call it a day.

I will test the Motoplat as per Visiteur1948 suggestion and set up the SEM properly. I am also looking at a new iginition system... but they are expensive but then again going to events and only doing one race is expensive and no fun...

Stu
 
motoplat 20 ohms.JPGmotoplat 220 ohms.JPG

two pictures for you husky37
test one for ignition coil !
21.1 ohms cables blue and black
= stator OK ( 19/21 ohms standart):)

test two = ligths/lamps !
cable black /yellow = 220 ohms=OK !:)
 
how close do the values need to be?

Checking my ignition i have on a bike i am restoring:

Coil: 34 and 5780

Stator

26 ohm and 388

So any comments from those who know - should i be looking to replace these?
 
I'm on the home stretch on my 1980 390WR restoration and tried to start it this weekend, but no luck. I think it is an ignition issue at this point. It has a 4 wire Motoplat (blue, black, yellow & white) and a red wire coil. After reviewing this thread and other related threads and trying to diagnose the problem, the following is a summary of my observations:

I have cleaned all contact points ( coil bracket to frame, frame to engine mount, engine mount to engine) to bright shiny metal and installed a serated washer under one of the head nuts. I am getting 7 ohms between the small (black) and large (blue) coil lugs and 0 ohms between the large (blue) lug and ground. I set the timing based upon the Husky manual 2 mm alignment hole in the Motoplat flywheel (I wanted to get it running before embarking on the more precise TDC timing procedure).

I am getting a consistent but weak spark. I even made a wire jumper from the coil bracket to the threaded shank of the spark plug to make sure I have a good ground, but I am still getting a consistent but weak spark.

Could it be just a bad coil based upon the above resistance results? I would prefer to stay with the Motoplat system if possible. Any tech support would be greatly appreciated.
 
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