• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Motoplat 390 timing issue ....

grouty

grouty

Auto Lover ...
Why is it that things go swimmingly for several years, and then seem to go pear shaped !
After the engine builder put the lower half of the 78 390WR back together, I thought I would check the timing. It was so far out it could have been on the bike next door.
The stator plate is back exactly where it was before. Lining the 2mm hole up with the flywheel and stator I have a piston BTDC measurement of about 6.23mm.
If I rotate the stator plate fully clockwise in it's slots and re-measure, I get 2.96mm BTDC

The only thing we have changed that could effect this is a new tapered stub shaft on the flywheel side of the crank. This was a new part from a Husky parts specialist here in the UK.
There are a couple of pictures below.
motoplat1.jpg

The picture above shows the 2mm pin in position.

motoplat2.jpg

This picture shows the engine the the piston at TDC. Note the position of the keyway. Is this correct ??
Short of striping the motor again and pressing the crank apart to check that this new shaft has the keyways in the same place as the old one ....... I am lost :-(
 
I have a 360 without a cylinder on and the rotor and stator off which I can take a picture of in a few days if no one helps out more before then. I would advise putting loctite on the fastners which hold the stator plate as my stator loosened up and destroyed itself and I have a 250 engine of that type with those holes in the case all messed up from the same basic thing. I am pretty sure the stator itself detaches from the plate so I wouldn't worry about ruining one by enlarging the slots as the plates are probably surplus in a bunch of peoples parts piles.

fran
 
Thanks Fran...k.
The mounting plates on the 390 are not detachable though.
There is certainly an issue here, as the only thing changed is the right crank stub. When we rebuilt the engine about 8 years ago all was good. The marks on the mounting plate tell me where the timing was set.
My thoughts are .... the stub was pressed in without the key into the crank web (very unlikely).
the new stub has had the keyways cut incorrectly (possible)
I am being stupid and cannot see the obvious !
The latter is unlikely as I has spent hours pondering over this.
Looks like a complete strip down again. This will not beat me.
 
On your crank the fly wheel key should be 3 to 5 degress CCW from the crank pin(TDC) Your second picture looks close to being correct.Are you sure your gauge is reading correctly? The new stub would not have a key in it.Who ever did your crank might have just eye balded the clocking location if he could not remove the key out of yopur old stub.Like frank says,elongate your slots a bit and see if you can get the timing in.I can't believe who ever did your motor would not have set your timing and discovered this problem.
 
The new stub has a key both ends as per the original. I was assured Saturday that he had used the key into the crank web. The key ended up in the freezer and the stub was warmed to fit it as it was a tight one.
Just seems to me the key (one end or the other) has been transposed in the wrong direction when cut. I checked the measurements again this afternoon just to see if I was being stupid (still possibly the case). The only way I can see this being resolved is to strip the motor again, press the crank apart and see. I do have another brand new stub from a different source (Jef Bens). I will compare this with the new one we fitted and the original (bent) one.
Bit peed off as I wanted to ride an enduro next weekend !
 
Thanks Auto. But no, I will go and marshal for them anyway. It needs to be done right.
Looking at the parts manuals there are seven different right hand shafts from 78 till 84
The only one that is listed to fit mine is 16 10 868-01 (78 & 79 390cc) Maybe I have been sent one of the others !
Although out of the seven 16 10 653-01 is only listed for the 125's
I have one other new shaft, so we will see if that is correct. If not, maybe I will make one.
 
It sure looks to me like you have what I call the large taper. This 360 is the only one in all my collection with that large taper. I took a few pictures. contrary to what I stated earlier the cylinder is on it but the piston is in a drawyer so I figured top center by holding the rod with a finger through the intake which is the position of the first two photographs.

360rotor.JPG


360crankstub.JPG

I can see that the stator is not detachable with normal means and there is a limit to the extent one can elongate the slots without some filler.

82.420auto.crank.stub.JPG

Here is a 420 auto crank. The keyways in the crank wheel seems to be straight down on the crankshafts I looked at.

86.xc500.crank.half.JPG

To my suprise not all the angular placements are the same this one from an 85 500 is at about 10:45 not just a few minutes before 12:00.

I can't say if there is more than one of those crank stubs with the large taper, perhaps someone else can.
 
Just got the old original stub back from the workshop and compared it to the new one.
If you put both stubs down on the larger diameter with the flat end, and the keyway facing you. The original one is offset anti-clockwise by about 15-20 degrees on the flywheel key. The new one(s) are in line at 180 degrees.
I am told the part number in the book for my 78 390WR is these stubs. Maybe Husky used ones off a 360 with the large Motoplat.
Stay tuned .......
 
Looking at the picture of you 360 Fran...k, it looks like the key is offset. When I put mine at TDC with the replacement stub, the key way points straight up the centre line of the barrel. Which I guess it would if they are set at 180 degrees opposite each other.
Yours looks like it is 15-20 degrees anti-clockwise. Just what I need.
 
We are getting there.
Thanks to Charlie Preston at Husky Sales UK for going through loads of crank stubs and finding the info.
Turns out that Husky used the offset stub for 77-81 for the large 139mm Motoplat. But they didn't update their parts books until 1981 ! !
Nice of them......
The correct number for the offset stub is 16 11 815-01
If you order one by the numbers in the parts book you will get a 180 degree keyway shaft.
Now all I have to do is strip the motor and press the crank apart (again) and re-assemble........ oh deep joy !
 
I like your story, I've got a 390 auto crank that needs a new shaft, seems like you are the boy for the job. It is clutch side so at least you won't have to worry about the keyway:D
 
Cheers Steve.
If I don't have to strip another crank in the next 8 years I'll be happy.
Are you riding Dorset Classic & Devon Classic ??? Are you bringing the Auto ? ...... so many questions.
 
Huskydoggg said:
Grouty,
I have dozens of NOS crank stubs available, including 1611 815 01. Send me a PM if interested. Cheers.
Steve
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve.
I have one in my hand as I speak !
Should all be stripped, pressed, assembled, pressed, and re-built in a few days.
I am looking forward to starting it, and seeing what difference a set of Boysen reeds will make. Other than a wee bit of carb fiddling it should be good.
 
grouty said:
Thanks Steve.
I have one in my hand as I speak !
Should all be stripped, pressed, assembled, pressed, and re-built in a few days.
I am looking forward to starting it, and seeing what difference a set of Boysen reeds will make. Other than a wee bit of carb fiddling it should be good.
Click to expand...

Hi,
Please is this helps others for the future please looks at this photo.

thanks
garyflywheel stub shafts.jpg
 
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