• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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moto plat stator mini six timing

84scrambler

84scrambler

Husqvarna
Pro Class
87 250 xc, which way to move the plate to retard ? some d.m.f. cut out one end of the slots
on my plate and the allen bolts are all the way to one end... The bike was running after the top end
rebuild just fine. Now today, harder to start , kick back, and then it ran back wards... Yes in
reverse... The old piston had a burned out lip near the exhaust port . Do you think the bike is
all the way advanced? The allen bolt is all the way to the left side of the slot. Should i move
the plate counter clock wise ? I hope so cuz I cant move it clock wise anymore or it wouldnt
be bolted down any longer. Please help only if you have experience in this area .
Thank you , Bary.
 
counter clock wise is advance, rotate stator plate clock wise to retard, you will need a dial indicator to accurately set the timing and a pin that fits snugly in the small hole in the flywheel and stator
 
I have experience with 430 and mini 6 in that age however the tech data shows sem not motoplat is origional. I always wondered why 250 had more watts than the bigger displacement ones. The holes to bolt it to on the case should be exactly the same though. whether the key location in the crank stub is the same I can't say without investing some effort. When set at 18 degrees or whatever mm on the dial indicator the tech data calls for mine would kick back like you state however it never would run backwards even when it kicked back and started at the same time. If you locate top center a light can be used as pictured.

It looks to me like your spec is 17.2 degrees or 2mm feel free to check I looked it up right.
Edsit later: 11/28/11 I do not have the sheet which came with your model but have put my source here (Source, tech_data_81-88.pdf page 147 sourced on this site and saved to file) I ended up going from 18 to 12 degrees on my set up and it can still occasionally mis behave.
 

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That's strange Frank , the timing marks on mine are about the same place as yours but the holes and therefore the pointer in the bottom hole are in a different position.
Yours look to be about 1[top] and 7[bottom] oclock but mine are 11[top] and 5[bottom] and the manual shows them to be the same as mine.
Interesting
 
dukkman said:
That's strange Frank , the timing marks on mine are about the same place as yours but the holes and therefore the pointer in the bottom hole are in a different position.
Yours look to be about 1[top] and 7[bottom] oclock but mine are 11[top] and 5[bottom] and the manual shows them to be the same as mine.
Interesting
Click to expand...

I made my own timing mark with pencil it is at the 12 on the wood protractor. The pin in the hole is pretty much within the measurment error of the timing light method. Just a short pencil can be used to find top of the stroke pretty close to a dial indicator. You need a motorcycle specific dial indicator or one with a bit longer neck than normal in my opinion. Or you need an extention piece for the tip of the dial indicator.

I believe the sem has the pointer. Just from a relatively new thread on here. I never really do much under that cover once the bike works ok and the last one I was working on an 88 430 was a motoplat mini 6 and I don't recall a pointer.

Back to the origional poster's elongated/opened up slots. I have relatively recently found out that the 420 crank I have out does not have the key in the same spot as the ones which use the mini 6. If I recall that one said amol on it somewhere which if you had or have british bikes is kind of amusing. The taper would appear to be the same. There was another thread on here about that key location on the big taper in some earlier models and it turned out there were errors in the parts sheets.

The igniteck or some spelling close to that discussed here looks to be a cure for a lot of these issues. I am not sure if some of the modern digital stuff could be made to work with a taper adapter and custom backing plate.

Fran
 
Woops sorry Frank , I looked at the flywheel and thought SEM but looking again I see that it's not.
:doh:
 
I had the same problem for years with my 88 250wr (that I bought new) kick back and runing backwards. Finally broke the left center case earlier this year. So I bought a 87 250wr on its last leg for the cases. Installed my crank rod ect. and had the same problem. With a dial indicator I could not get the timing to right ran out of adjustment at 1.4mm before TDC, so I compared it to the one I took of the 87 motor low and behold they were slightly different. I installed the other backing/mounting plate and timed right up to .51mm runs perfect. I think that from the factory a backing plate for a 430 was installed. That is the only thing that makes since to me, but the backing plates were definetly different. I would get a different backing plate and a dial indicator for sure or it can get expensive. Tri trophy on Ebay has backing plates for $8 brand new. I can check to see if there any casting or part numbers on the two for comparison if that will help.
 
husky jim said:
I had the same problem for years with my 88 250wr (that I bought new) kick back and runing backwards. Finally broke the left center case earlier this year. So I bought a 87 250wr on its last leg for the cases. Installed my crank rod ect. and had the same problem. With a dial indicator I could not get the timing to right ran out of adjustment at 1.4mm before TDC, so I compared it to the one I took of the 87 motor low and behold they were slightly different. I installed the other backing/mounting plate and timed right up to .51mm runs perfect. I think that from the factory a backing plate for a 430 was installed. That is the only thing that makes since to me, but the backing plates were definetly different. I would get a different backing plate and a dial indicator for sure or it can get expensive. Tri trophy on Ebay has backing plates for $8 brand new. I can check to see if there any casting or part numbers on the two for comparison if that will help.
Click to expand...
Hey Jim, the bike was running good until just the other day. Then all the sudden (backwards) what the hill? I put a new plug in the other night and it ran fine. But i dont want to run it if the timming is not correct?
I was checking tdc with a mini mm ruler that fits in the spark plug hole . works good. Should i loosen the plate screws lock the plate to the flywheel with a pin and find tdc then back it off 2mm befor tdc then lock the plate screws down?
The only thing is I think I will run out of (slot on the plate) adjustment. According to my ruler the timing is firing at tdc . I can not move the plate clockwise any more or it would not be in the slots.
 
The timing for a 87 250 is 0.51mm BTDC the timing on a 430 is 2.3mm the longer the stroke the more mm before TDC. Take for instance the 86 250 has a shorter stroke than the 87. The 86 250 timing is 0.49mm. If the timing is set at TDC it should not run backwards and should be fairly easy to kick through the compression stroke. You really need a dial indicator to properly set the timing. When I set the timing up on my bikes, I have to check it several times by turning the flywheel by hand back and forth. If you notice the flywheel can be turned quite a few degrees and the piston is still at TDC. I set my dial indicator at 0.51mm as soon as the piston hits TDC then back it off till the dial reads 0 then check to make sure the holes line up on the stator and flywheel. Also use a snug fitting drill bit or I use one of those precision screw drivers. I don't have a shop manual but the owners manual has a chapter that covers timing. I do have it on CD give me your email and I'll try and send it to you. I'm not real computer savy but will try, or I can snail mail you a copt of the CD that also has parts manual for 85-88 2strokes.
 
There is a 1986 2t work shop manual in the technical section, which is the same that's in my 87 owners manual.
 
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