• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Mods for a new TE449

C

ChiefBigCope

Husqvarna
AA Class
Alright, well I just bought a brand new TE449 with 0 miles on it with the intention of converting into a supermoto! Only question is, what to do first? Any suggestions?
 
Congrats...change the oil to mobil 1 0-w40, take smog junk off, fmf slip on, map 3, i went through warp 9 for super moto stuff, 40 t rear sprocket. michelin pilot power tires, got 2600 miles out of rear still on same front tire. I had to cut rear fender piece off for a cleaner look, ride the piss out of her....change oil frequently, like 300 to 500 miles and run the highest octane you can buy at the pump...enjoy
 
Following from above, if you plan on racing/ hard riding, the stock warp 9 front brake rotor is inadequate even with the stock brake caliper. If you're only planning on street riding it's probably OK at best.

My Buddy has a CRF450R that he races and he bought the warp 9 setup but upgraded the front brake rotor before the first race.
 
Teambowles said:
Congrats...change the oil to mobil 1 0-w40, take smog junk off, fmf slip on, map 3,
Click to expand...

As far as the "smog junk" what does that entail? I would like it a little louder until I can get me an fmf. Also the map 3, does that just requires me to hook up the plug under the seat?
 
ChiefBigCope said:
As far as the "smog junk" what does that entail? I would like it a little louder until I can get me an fmf. Also the map 3, does that just requires me to hook up the plug under the seat?
Click to expand...
Smog junk is the black canister on the side of the motor. 2 hoses go to it, one from the tank you can run towards the rear of bike that's the air breather for gas tank the other unhook from side of motor and cap it off. I just bought fmf you can take the end out of stock can but doesn't make any real difference. Map 3 is awesome, your dealer can load it or send it to Ziptyracing, cheap but we'll worth it. No the jumper plug under the seat eliminates the O2 sensor puts you in map 2. Map 3 has to be downloaded on ecu.
 
Thanks, one last annoying question. How tight, how much movement, should the chain have? I have probably 3/4- an inch of travel and think its a bit loose for a road bike. Am I crazy or is it off?
 
ChiefBigCope said:
Thanks, one last annoying question. How tight, how much movement, should the chain have? I have probably 3/4- an inch of travel and think its a bit loose for a road bike. Am I crazy or is it off?
Click to expand...
Not much slack, i cant remember the exact tension but its like 5mm not much which is crazy. Its not like a normal bike i usually leave 1/4 inch or so. someone on here knows the exact tension im sure.
 
Teambowles said:
Not much slack, i cant remember the exact tension but its like 5mm not much which is crazy. Its not like a normal bike i usually leave 1/4 inch or so. someone on here knows the exact tension im sure.
Click to expand...

With the location of the front sprocket and the swing arm pivot, there isn't tightening of the chain with compression of the rear suspension. Essentialy, your chain tension stays the same throughout the suspension travel so the setting is tighter. I believe 4-5mm of play.
 
5mm I'm pretty sure the spec is.
Like you said the chain tension pretty much remains constant with our cts setup.
 
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