• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Modified clutch arm

H

Houredout401

Husqvarna
AA Class
I was reading up on modifying the clutch arm and stumbled across this for $12. Kinda cool that is appears to have been done back in the day according the original tips and tricks that were out there. Thank god digidave was not the seller, it would have been listed for $150.

s-l1600.jpg
 
That's cool. I lengthened my original '85 250 clutch arm to get better leverage. Didn't know about the bearing at the time.
Does the cable get a straighter pull with the cable end higher?
 
I tried to replace the seal with a bearing on my last rebuild (510 a/c motor) -and it caused the actuator shaft to bind. The shaft would not turn smoothly at all. May have been too much of an interference fit in the casing causing bearing to bind. Anyway ditched the bearing idea and used a seal. Worked fine. The 510 clutch is very light pull anyway ...... unlike my 240 until I fitted Andys lady springs!
 
PEZBerq said:
I tried to replace the seal with a bearing on my last rebuild (510 a/c motor) -and it caused the actuator shaft to bind. The shaft would not turn smoothly at all. May have been too much of an interference fit in the casing causing bearing to bind. Anyway ditched the bearing idea and used a seal. Worked fine. The 510 clutch is very light pull anyway ...... unlike my 240 until I fitted Andys lady springs!
Click to expand...
i had an engine do this as well, while another engine did not. i think its just a dimensional tolerance thing. its worth a try i guess as the clutch action is much improved..
 
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