• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

mikuni carbs, suppliers

I have not ordered from Sudco, but have ordered from Carbpartswarehouse..com. This was for my Yamaha IT200. Was a Mikuni, they jetted it to factory, provided two extra main jets one up one down. I also bought a motion pro throttle and cable which are pretty cheap but work ok. All in it was about $200 bucks. It took about two weeks.
Husqvarna-parts.com advertises carbs jetted to factory for $199 or so, with an extra $20-25 for slide change.
 
I took a chance a few years ago after reading 'Motorsportz' threads about the Lectron carbs. Even back then when the $/£ rate was better I could have bought two new Mikuni's for the price of one Lectron. But it was worth every penny and more. I then bought another for my 390 Auto as they are so good. At the end of the day it is your choice. A correctly jetted Mikuni works just fine. Just that I have moved on.
Shame I can't try one on the 73 CCM, but it would not be allowed for our pre-74 class.
 
I've found I could never find all parts in one place. If you are looking for a complete carb you'll have better luck.
 
MikeDi said:
Thanks guys, I'm already obsessing enough about this bike, do I need to look at Lectron's? :thinking:
Click to expand...
nothing wrong with the vm mikuni...classic carb with parts availability, and performs well when dialed.
for me, the problem arises when you are spending money for a new mikuni..that i would never do. theres alot to be read about lectrons here. they start looking very appealing when you are talking about buying new. the ability to have them ordered machined to fit your application is nice. im very glad i purchased the one i did, and i doubt you would have a hard time selling one for a swede close to what you paid if you didnt like yours.
 
Ebay? I just purchased a 38mm mikuni with a throttle assembly for a 390. A 38mm is a 38mm you just have to make sure it's for a 83/84 bike the length of the rear horn is a tad longer I think. If it's a 250 carb then the jetting, the needle jet, carb slide cutout, the needle maybe different. Think about installing a thunder products UFO in the carb slide too.
 
Bill, The original carb didn't come with my bike. I can see there is a long and short. Thank you for that,
Also most come with a 2.5 slide. spec calls for 2.0.
does it make a huge difference?
 
MikeDi said:
Bill, The original carb didn't come with my bike. I can see there is a long and short. Thank you for that,
Also most come with a 2.5 slide. spec calls for 2.0.
does it make a huge difference?
Click to expand...
the slide size is another jetting tool. when your needle runs out of clip positions or ideally to keep the clip position close to center you alter the slide size
 
If you buy a Mikuni and later have to buy a different slide, needle and multiple jets you will be close to even with the price of a lectron. I made that mistake on my WR250 and even though I got my Mikuni running great once I put the Lectron on it it was much better in every way, the biggest bonus was it increased the fuel mileage so much I didn't need an oversized tank especially riding single track... Wide open sand riding there's not much of a difference in mileage. Another big gain was it was able to go from 1500 ft to 9,000 ft with nothing but a 1/4 turn on the idle screw (no tools required).
 
When you runout of clip positions on the needle you need to go to a richer needle or leaner needle depending on if the needle is at the last clip on top or bottom. The needle jet factors in also if it's rich or lean. The needle jet is a bathtub full of gas.

Start off jetting with the needle in the center as said above. Make sure the float needle and seat is good. Like refreshing with new pistons,seals,bearings I also install a new needle and seat on every used bike when I freshin it. Then I'm sure it's good. I have a 99% average that the needle and seat leaks gas. Another lesson learned. We can't jet it correctly with a leaking needle and seat.
 
I see $340 to $380 on their web site.
Mikuni jetted to stock is about $210.
Just figured i'd check and get sticker shock.
 
I watch eBay for a decent price on a used one. Buy the used carb, buy a new needle and seat. I use a carb cleaning system it's a one gallon can with carb cleaner and a basket. Disassembly the carb and let it soak.
 
MikeDi said:
I see $340 to $380 on their web site.
Mikuni jetted to stock is about $210.
Just figured i'd check and get sticker shock.
Click to expand...
not bad really, the replacement slides are pricy. i still do have a tackle box with assorted pilots, needles, needle jets, slides, mains, needle clips and shims, etc...all used to tune.
stock jetting will also not work on a 430. all years of 430 are notorious for being really rich on the bottom, transitioning to being ok or lean up top. there will be a decent amount of tuning to get it right.
to me the price of a carb swap isnt bad at all compared to other costs, on a rider where function is important. a nice advantage to the leccy are no tuning replacement parts aside from the metering rod, which in itself in very adjustable.
 
Bigbill said:
When you runout of clip positions on the needle you need to go to a richer needle or leaner needle depending on if the needle is at the last clip on top or bottom. The needle jet factors in also if it's rich or lean. The needle jet is a bathtub full of gas.

Start off jetting with the needle in the center as said above. Make sure the float needle and seat is good. Like refreshing with new pistons,seals,bearings I also install a new needle and seat on every used bike when I freshin it. Then I'm sure it's good. I have a 99% average that the needle and seat leaks gas. Another lesson learned. We can't jet it correctly with a leaking needle and seat.
Click to expand...
when you run out of clip positions you change the needle jet richer or leaner. it doesnt mean you need a different needle. if you have a bike that runs well on the bottom or top clip, the next size needle jet will put the clip back to the middle....or VERY close it. mikuni has it set up that way for a reason.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top